Appliance Power Consumption Log
After doing Kil-A-Watt readings on some of my appliances to ensure my planned system could handle them, it occurred to me that a forum database of people's real world power draw would be extremely useful. If you have some data, please share it.
I'll start with the 4 Items I have tested.
Toaster- Proctor and Gamble T-35
Peak Consumption= 785W
Total Consumption Toasting 2 Slices=.044Kwh
Coffee Maker- Ninja Cafetiere
Peak Consumption= 1400W
Total Consumption Brewing 12 Cup Carafe=.142Kwh
Cooktop- Copper Chef Induction Cooktop
Total Consumption Cooking-
Chicken Liver & Onions W/Gravy (23 1/2 Min Cook
Bacon & Eggs=.17Kwh
7.0 Cubic Foot Chest Freezer- Insignia NS-CZ70WH6
(Tested In Store)
Peak Consumption (Locked Rotor)=900W
I hope somebody trying to figure out how much power they need finds this useful, and I hope others share.
Fridgadaire 4.7 cu ft fridge with freezer
320 watts for a 24 hour period, set on medium
Viewsonic 22" LED monitor - 0.15kwhr (9.25hrs)
Box fan (don't know brand... sorry) - 0.66kwhr (10hrs)
Macbook Pro (2014 15" screen) - 0.14kwhr (2hr charge time)
That's all I've collected so far. Well... that's all I've written down so far. I keep forgetting... :facepalm:
Thanx guys, who knew a box fan needed more power than cooking breakfast and dinner combined :oops: . That's the kind of stuff you won't read in a data sheet.
Thanks to all who have shared.
In this context it is "apples to apples"
Presumably this thread is to help people plan their power needs when running from generator and battery sources (including solar). Keep in mind that when using a DC power source any of the appliances that run on AC power will have to be run through an inverter, which requires its own power to be considered as well. For some loads I have seen inverters operating at only 50% efficiency, meaning a 100 watt load was actually consuming 200 watts of stored power. Resistive loads (like toasters and other things with heating elements) are hard to supply power to, and loads where you're converting more than once (laptop charger, anything with a power brick/wall wart) are stacking inefficient conversions on top of each other.
If you're installing a solar or otherwise charged battery bank, you can save a lot of power by running DC appliances instead of AC ones, and powering DC appliances directly from DC power. The conversion between AC and DC power can be very expensive, avoid doing it multiple times!
Some things are easier than others, of course. You can't just plug any old refrigerator into 12v, you would need one designed specifically for 12v. But some things are easy. laptop chargers, phone chargers, lighting, fans, routers...
Remember, every watt you don't consume is a watt you don't have to produce and store! Being efficient pays off big time.
Keep in mind that your freezer will have a start surge that can be 2x or 3x the continuous draw. Mine would consume 150-ish watts running from inverter power but could briefly pull 400w at start-up! Also, a MSW inverter can be much less efficient than a PSW inverter for things with motors, refrigerators and air conditioners are the common examples of things they're bad at.
Has the device to check out and there is a card listing expected outputs from crockpot to freezers!Has been a couple of years since I had it in my hands. I am a warm body on the local library board.
What I have found or measured...
This list shows watts at 115 +/- volts. Multiply by hours used per day to get kwh/day. Factor in your inverters efficiency if coming from a 12v source.
Coffee Maker 600-1200
Keurig 1500 (max) 200-400 (continuous)
Microwave (600-1000 Watt Cooking Power) 1000-2000
Waffle Iron 800-1500
Hot Plate 750-1500
Electric Skillet 1000-1500
Toaster Oven 1200
Hair Dryer 1000-1875
Vacuum Cleaner 300-1500
Space Heater 750 / 1500
Clothes Iron 1000-1500
Chest Freezer 600
Washing Machine 500-1000
Furnace Fan 750-1200
Household Fan 50-120
Clock Radio 10-50
Cell Phone Charger 10
Laptop Computer 20-75
MacBook Pro 85
iPad / Tablet 10-20
Desktop with Monitor 200-400
Inkjet Printer 15-75
Laser Printer 500 (continuous) 2000 (peak)
TV 32" LED/LCD 50
Blu-Ray or DVD Player 15
Satellite Dish / Receiver 20-30
Video Game Console (Xbox / PS4 / Wii) 40-140
PUMPS AND AIR CONDITIONERS
* Well Pump 1/3 hp 750 (Running) 1400-3000 (Starting)
* Well Pump 1/2 hp 1000 (Running) 2100-4000 (Starting)
* Sump Pump 1/3 hp 800 (Running) 1300-2900 (Starting)
* Sump Pump 1/2 hp 1050 (Running) 2150-4100 (Starting)
* Air Conditioner (7,000 BTU) 1000 (Running) 2200 (Starting)
* Air Conditioner (10,000 BTU) 1500 (Running) 5000 (Starting)
Angle Grinder 900
Drill (1/4"-1/2") 500-960
Disc Sander 1200
Jig Saw 300-700
Band Saw 700-1200
Table Saw 1800
Circular Saw 1400-1800
Chop / Cut Off Saw 1500-1800
Shop Vac 6.5 hp 1440
* Electric Chain Saw 14" 1200
* Airless Sprayer 1/2 hp 750
* Air Compressor 1 hp 2000
MY STUFF [TESTED]
Air conditioner “5000btu” 350 softstart
Table saw 250-1300
Miter saw 124
Circular saw 1000-1200
Metal Chop saw 600-1200
bench grinder 600-700
hand grinder 360-560
Drill press 330-480
Shop Vac hp
Air Compressor 1 hp
Interesting stuff. Thanks for posting it. Jack:popcorn:
Air compressor & conditioner
Older Harbor Freight pancake air compressor=10.5 A, 121V, 1185W
New (Home Depot) LG 6000BTU window air conditioner = rated at 4.9A, 120V.
This unit starts the circulation fan at 0.31A then slowly...slowly climbs up in amps as the compressor cools the air. The unit climbs 1 /10 amp at a time. It took about ten minutes for the AC to climb to 4.20 A (it was still climbing when I shut it off). The air started getting noticeably cooler around 3.5 Amps.
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