12v on shore power

ism minerals

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Jul 20, 2015
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238
Location
New Hampshire
There are some rv panels with built in 120v to 12v dc power supplies.

Is there any advantage to this instead of using the house batteries and a charger/inverter?
 
with the power converter, you run your DC stuff (lights, water pump, etc) off the shore power. Many of those units have a built in charger so you can charge the house battery at the same time.
Plus, power inverters, draw some power on top of what the lights and such will draw.

edit: also, with the power converter, your 12 v fuses are right there. You won't need a bunch of in line fuses.
 
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for winter storage......

i have my lifepo battery out of the bus and stored inside the house for the winter time. the bms shuts down at 32 and winter here is way colder than that.

i can plug my bus into a 15a outlet at my house and my power converter/charger supplies the 12v house system with or without the battery installed.
 
There are some rv panels with built in 120v to 12v dc power supplies.

Is there any advantage to this instead of using the house batteries and a charger/inverter?

What will be your source of 120v power for the RV panel? Shore power (I'm guessing)?

Ideally every bus has a way to power its 12v and 120v circuits through either battery or shore power. That way, if you're parked and have access to a receptacle you can power the bus without having to run the house battery.

If that's your intention, your design challenge is to pick one of those RV panels that is able to be able to switch from battery power to shore power seamlessly, and not only are there a variety of ways to do this, there are a variety of devices that handle some or all of that switching.

And if you intend to power your 120v residential circuits in the bus from the battery, you'll need an inverter that takes battery power, converts it to residential AC, and integrates with the RV Panel.

Others here might have more experience with specific brands or recommended 'pairings'.
 
Thanks for the responses. I have a Magnum energy ms2812 charger/inverter which put out around 125A DC for charging, which is more than the battery bank can handle (380ah). I was just curious on why some distribution boxes have built in Ac-Dc converters and not just use a battery charger.
 
There is a dizzying variety of power conversion devices.

Yours is primarily for switching from battery to house power and back, with the added benefit of battery charging. (be sure to configure it for your type of batteries-not clear if it supports LiFePo configuration without the optional remote).

How are you configuring your DC fuse panel?
 
I have a WFCO WF-8930 50amp AC/DC distribution panel is has a 15 spot dc panel. I will also be running a new lead to the buses electrical distribution panel and use some of those ACC spots also. I will be adding a 12v amp for ham radio near that panel so its will be a two for one type of installation.

 
need to find better software but the dc side is going from the alternator 200A leece/neville to the house distribution block 1.25''x 3/8''. I will have a 500 amp Solenoid switch right after the alternator controlled by a battery sense voltage isolator to ensure the coach batteries get charged first and some manual override switches to disconnect the house from the coach when needed or use the house to help start if needed.


The distribution fuse bank will have:
1.) 500A house battery bank

2.) 400A fuse for the magnum energy ms2812 inverter/charger
3.) 150A midnight classic 150 solar MPPT charge controller

4.) 400A Onan generator QD7500 ( 1/0 AWG) for starting
5.) 200A lead to the front DC panel for House ACC and Ham radio amp

6.) 150A ac/Dc distribution panel wf-8930 50A Ac


The ac side is going the typical route: generator and shore power (50A) going to an auto transfer switch which goes to a 8 spot 100A Ac panel with a double 30 amp breaker going to the inverter ( has built in pass through) which goes to the Wf-8930 panel that will feed most of the buses ac needs. electric heat loads will remain in the 8 spot panel.



The generator is neutral isolated and has a chassis ground, same for the inverter. All electrical panels have wiring separating the grounds and the neutrals to keep continuity. All AC wiring is SOOW type, any exposed under the bus is shielded with wire loom.
 

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need to find better software but the dc side is going from the alternator 200A leece/neville to the house distribution block 1.25''x 3/8''. I will have a 500 amp Solenoid switch right after the alternator controlled by a battery sense voltage isolator to ensure the coach batteries get charged first and some manual override switches to disconnect the house from the coach when needed or use the house to help start if needed.


The distribution fuse bank will have:
1.) 500A house battery bank

2.) 400A fuse for the magnum energy ms2812 inverter/charger
3.) 150A midnight classic 150 solar MPPT charge controller

4.) 400A Onan generator QD7500 ( 1/0 AWG) for starting
5.) 200A lead to the front DC panel for House ACC and Ham radio amp

6.) 150A ac/Dc distribution panel wf-8930 50A Ac


The ac side is going the typical route: generator and shore power (50A) going to an auto transfer switch which goes to a 8 spot 100A Ac panel with a double 30 amp breaker going to the inverter ( has built in pass through) which goes to the Wf-8930 panel that will feed most of the buses ac needs. electric heat loads will remain in the 8 spot panel.



The generator is neutral isolated and has a chassis ground, same for the inverter. All electrical panels have wiring separating the grounds and the neutrals to keep continuity. All AC wiring is SOOW type, any exposed under the bus is shielded with wire loom.

There are inconsistencies in the aforementioned material list.

Should we reply with suggestions regarding listed use, amperage rating or safety of the components you've selected?
 
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