1972 IH Ward Conversion

[Steve-SKO]

All of the rust is just surface rust and comes off easily during sandblasting leaving a like new part. The only parts I have found to be pitted because of rust so far where the back of the covers of the side mirrors, but they look pretty nice now. And remember this bus is over 30 years old and has put up with many salty Iowa winters.

The KoolSeal definetly makes a difference but the coat is pretty thing, I need to paint on at least two more coats (two more gallons).

 

[Steve-SKO]

Today I was finally able to find a local bus shop with used tires and got all 6 for free. [That saves $1000 ]

For the steering I got two Bridgestone R250 10R22.5 tires and for driving tires I got four Goodyear G124 10R22.5 tires.

I then ordered six brand new bud style 6.75x22.5 wheels which will have to be shipped in and arrive on Tuesday.

I sure hope this stuff ends up fitting in place of the old 8.25x20 wheels and tires I have on there now cause they look huge in comparison.

 

[Steve-SKO]

Tonight I installed an electic radiator (pusher) fan and a thermostat. I wired it not to the ignition switch but to be on all the time. So the fan will always be on as long as the radiator is over 180 degrees and turns off when it is less.

I also installed the bus' first tachometer. Its a small model I mounted under the dash next to the radio.

 

[Steve-SKO]

Today I mounted a voltmeter into the dash and mounted the CB below the dash to the left of the steering wheel.

The guages from left to right are: Vaccuum, Current, Voltage, Fuel, Water Temp, Oil Pressure, Spedometer, and Tachometer.

 

[Steve-SKO]

Today I got the new 22.5" tires mounted on the bus, the brand new wheels look great and the radials ride much better.

 

[Vern1]

Greetings,
Looking GOOD!!!
OK, so fill me in on the skoolie logo.
Is it a stencil or hand done.
I think BruinGilda would like to show one off!

 

[Steve-SKO]

Go to this thread:

http://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=298

I printed the template I wanted to use on 11 x 17 paper and then cut out an outline of everything that was in black, then on a second paper I cut out everything inside the black that was white. I taped the paper up on the bus real good, painted the black, then taped up the other and painted the white parts inside of the black outline.

Here is what it looked like on the back of the bus, in case you hadn't noticed it.

 

[Steve-SKO]

I put a second very thick coat of kool seal on the bus last night. This stuff is very bright white and feels like a pencil eraser when dry. I found you can buy it cheap at Lowes!

 

[Steve-SKO]

On my recent trip to MN in the bus it got very loud on the interstate once you exceed 60 mph. So I decided to get all new exhaust. It does make a big difference but the engine itself is still very loud, I think I am going to get some dynamat.

For those with a loadstar I found this cool sticker under the wiper fluid bag, this info may be helpful to you.

 

[Steve-SKO]

If you have been following my project you would know I've been having steering problems for about a year now, I finally got the truck jacked up to take a look at it. The steering is adjusted just fine, the problems I have been having are due to something much worse. The control arm is broken in half at the hole for the grease zerk.

Click on the pictures for a larger view:

 

[Firearm]

You should buy a lottery ticket because you are the luckiest guy I know! I'm kidding, but I can't believe you drove on that for a year without a major breakdown. That should have given way and at highway speeds it could have been a bad deal. You have inspired me to do regular inspections of the steering system on my bus!!

 

[Steve-SKO]

I got my wheel, tire, and drum off. Took off the link and welded it back together.

 

[Clueie]

I hope you or the person who welded the link know what they're doing. I don't think that welding up steering parts is a good idea, if it breaks and is responsible for a mishap, the $#!+ will hit the fan! A new or good used replacement would've been a better alternative. But that's only my 2 cents worth

 

[Steve-SKO]

I traveled all around Iowa yesterday and looked at over 50 loadstars, not a single one of them is the same as mine. So far the only replacement arm I have been able to located is in Brazil and will $330 for the part plus shipping.

 

[Clueie]

On the other hand, welding it up seems like a great idea! Woah, $330, that's probably over $500 Canadian! Ridiculous. I'd have welded it up too, or found a really good shop to do it. By the way, did you get any more photos of minibus conversions, I don't think the neighbours are to thrilled with me parking a full size school bus next to my house

 

[Clueie]

What knid of "chrome" paint did you use on wheels and how's it holding up? It looks great by the way.

 

[Steve-SKO]

I think it was Rustoleum brand Chrome paint and it holds up VERY good. I don't have those wheels anymore I got new solid 22.5 wheels now but the dust caps, grill, lug nuts, and headlight rings are still painted with it and it looks great especially if you sand the surface very smooth before you start.

 

[Steve-SKO]

I just got in my Line Setting Sheets from Super Scout Specialists. It tells me the part number and description of every option on my chassis.

Take a look at my gear ratio, my two speed rear end is 6.33-8.81

 

[Jarlaxle]

I am starting to get things ready for the first long voyage in the bus. I purchased a CB and antenna today to keep track of things goin on and to make some conversation on a long drive.

I am also tired of smelling burnt oil so I went to Napa and bought some new valve cover gaskets, sandblasted and painted the valve covers and did some cleanup of the area, hopefully that will keep some of the smell down. Quite a transformation though.

The engine is an IHC 345 ci V8 and interestingly on the valve covers it tells the timing cylinder for both V8s and 4cyl, they must have used the same cover on both types of engines.

Yep--the IH 4-bangers (152 & 196ci) were half of the 304 & 392 V8's, respectively (304, 345, & 392's use the same valve covers.

Also, it tells you that the timing is set on the #8 cylinder, right?

 

[system-f]

What kind of steel is that control arm? Looks to be cast steel. If it is cast steel welding should hold fine. If it is cast iron, spend the $400 on a new one. I don't really see anyone using cast iron in that situation as it's too brittle. here is some info on the spark test
http://shopswarf.orcon.net.nz/spark.html