1988 International Shorty

Ok need help. The other night when I eliminated my door buzzers and shut offs at the back doors one of the wires sparked when I grounded it to the body. Now tonight it won't start? Acts like the battery is dead. Did I wire it up wrong? I shut it off and started it half a dozen times after I finished wiring it.
 
Most likely blew a fuse. Was there more then two wires at the back door? Modern buses have two circuits, one is live as it controls the buzzer that let's you know the door is open, and the other becomes live only when starting/running and is an ignition interupt.
 
Thanks Ronnie. Yeah there was like 4 wires. I put the battery charger on it and it cranks over, still not enough power to start it up yet. I'll wait a few hours. Could I have wired the door ignition interrupt wrong and it is creating a draw?
 
Thanks Ronnie. Yeah there was like 4 wires. I put the battery charger on it and it cranks over, still not enough power to start it up yet. I'll wait a few hours. Could I have wired the door ignition interrupt wrong and it is creating a draw?

The ECM will draw power always. Buses were designed to be driven daily which would allow the alternator to keep them charged more than they would drain. Now it's not in service which it isn't designed to do which is sit and only be cranked once every few days or longer. This is why battery disconnects are recommended to be added so they can sit, when not used and not quickly kill your battery from vampiric devices.
 
I don't think my bus has an ecm? It's all mechanical as far as I know. Also I have let it sit for weeks at a time and it fires right up. I'm just afraid I wired something up wrong and it is causing a draw that will run the battery down if I'm not starting it every day.

I started pulling the wiring conduit off so I can trace all the wires front to back. I would like to remove the whole emergency door/ignition lockout system.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1988 s1800 international bus?

Thanks everyone for your input and advice
 
Thanks Ronnie. Yeah there was like 4 wires. I put the battery charger on it and it cranks over, still not enough power to start it up yet. I'll wait a few hours. Could I have wired the door ignition interrupt wrong and it is creating a draw?


I believe with the ignition off there should not be any power in the circuit, but check it because if you did cross some wires then yes it could drain the battery. I too vote for disconnecting the whole circuit.
 
I don't think my bus has an ecm? It's all mechanical as far as I know. Also I have let it sit for weeks at a time and it fires right up. I'm just afraid I wired something up wrong and it is causing a draw that will run the battery down if I'm not starting it every day.

I started pulling the wiring conduit off so I can trace all the wires front to back. I would like to remove the whole emergency door/ignition lockout system.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1988 s1800 international bus?

Thanks everyone for your input and advice

You're right, I'm batting 1000 today in misreads.

All mechanical doesn't have an ECM. So likely it's more related to an accessory, either added or factory installed.

Best thing I would do is trace all small wires if any from the positive terminal of the battery, if there is anything branching off (There will be) then follow to see if it's something that could be drained.
 
After putting the cables to it it started up. Worked on exposing the wires that go to the back. Eliminated the stereo and wires to the speakers. Going to keep stripping panels off and get everything exposed.
Also found a manual for a 1981 international that has wiring diagrams. Hopefully it is close
 
No x2 to tandems. If you have air brakes, find a single axle with an air locker.

From years of driving on mines, less drive axles is better. Unlocked, the wimpiest tandem wheel spins out and you're stuck. Locked, you go in a straight line and steering is ineffective.

Same with such a short wheelbase on pavement, one of the tandems scrub in turns, wearing that set out much faster and decreasing your turning ability.
 
Recent progress. Wiring looks messy but not going to do anything with it yet. Mostly just been working on the roof panels.
 

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Well I let it sit for like 4 days and it fired up. A light or something must have got left on? Won't be much progress for the next few weeks as I have to get it ready to take the kids trigger treating in it.
 
Well slowly been working on the bus. I have all the ceiling panels removed except the very most forward one that goes down and covers the wiper motors.

I'm going to buy a few rivet drill bits for myself for Christmas so I can start on the outside along the drip rail. I'm going to skin the outside and remove the windows so I think I have to drill all the rivets out so I can slide the new metal between the roof panel and bus rib supports and then drill and either rerivet or screw back together. Can any one confirm this is the correct way to do this?

While the ceiling is all stripped bare a roof rack is going to be built and holes cut for AC unit, roof vent, and roof window.

After that is new wiring from the front to back for lights, trailer harness, etc. Then sound deadner, insulation, and cover back up etc.

Dang so much to do so little time. Although I have been super busy with my kids' sports I have been diligently making myself do a little something every week which has helped in not getting to discouraged. As you all know a conversion project can drain you in every way possible!!!

Merry Christmas everyone!!!
 
Don’t know about Pelland, just wanted to say nice size bus! Looked for one that size over 2years in my area with no love. Enjoying the thread.
 
Thanks Dan. Yeah I super licked out getting it! Can't wait to get new windows and the roof rack on it.
 
Well the rearend in my bus is a RA42 I guesss. I had a local mechanic come get numbers off it and send the numbers to his International guy. So to get a new 3rd member with a locker and 3.73 gears is going to cost 3200 bucks plus labor. Everything is so expensive these days. Getting the gears changed is critical though so I have to do it. Looking at other lower priced options but not holding my breath.
So windows and gears are going to cost me quite a bit more than I expected. At least with the windows I will be able to break it off in chunks.I figure I will do the back windows first then the drivers side then the passenger side.
 

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