1998 international 4700 keeps hesitating

[DJTM]

The cap is in the right position, but I think it vibrated off rather than blown off so you may be okay. You can try it again with the engine cranked, and place it there by hand to prevent it from sliding while running, if there's blow by it will definitely blow upwards even with you kind of holding only the sides. If it doesn't you are likely okay.

Ok will do. Would excessive blowby produce any codes? I only got the one regarding the Cam sensor.

 

[nikitis]

Ok will do. Would excessive blowby produce any codes? I only got the one regarding the Cam sensor.

No codes unless the engine fails completely which it hasn't done. It's just weaker and you'll lose power slowly over time till it just doesn't give anymore.

Does the blow by tube under the bus calm down after driving it a bit? The test didn't blow off the lid immediately, so it's seems okay.

If it does calm down after driving it's probably fine as well. But could be in the beginning stages. And if that is the case you can safely drive it like that for a few thousand miles more without issue likely without worrying about it. But do the cap test every now and then and see if it gets worse.

Once it starts it's a sign of wear on the engine and it's only a matter of time, how much time varies. It's not something that's gonna likely break down immediately so you have time. If the Cap was already blowing off, then I'd be a bit more worried. That's when you want to start considering a rebuild. And a rebuild will make it like new.

 

[DJTM]

No codes unless the engine fails completely which it hasn't done. It's just weaker and you'll lose power slowly over time till it just doesn't give anymore.

Does the blow by tube under the bus calm down after driving it a bit? The test didn't blow off the lid immediately, so it's seems okay.

If it does calm down after driving it's probably fine as well. But could be in the beginning stages. And if that is the case you can safely drive it like that for a few thousand miles more without issue likely without worrying about it. But do the cap test every now and then and see if it gets worse.

Once it starts it's a sign of wear on the engine and it's only a matter of time, how much time varies. It's not something that's gonna likely break down immediately so you have time. If the Cap was already blowing off, then I'd be a bit more worried. That's when you want to start considering a rebuild. And a rebuild will make it like new.

I never noticed the blowby before until about a week ago. I asked my buddy why there was white smoke coming from under the truck. Initially I thought it was a coolant leak. He said nah that's just blowby you'll be OK. I'm going to monitor it closely like you're suggesting and do the oil cap test every week just to keep an eye on it. I've been afraid to drive it because of the hesitation issue, but I'm going to take her for a spin tomorrow and see what happens. I'll see what the blowby looks like then. Thank you Nikitis.

 

[nikitis]

White smoke is a sign too of a tired engine. If its burning smoke initially when you first start it, that is normal as it could just be running rich on start and that does not mean it's blow by, but if it's continued smoke like 1 minute after starting and onwards, then that is a sign of blow by. It means oil is getting past the rings and burning. That could be a result of the piston walls being scorched or scratched, or it could be the rings are failing but either way it's passing through.

And if it's passing through you'll have less compression. Less compression means less power.

If you are indeed getting continued smoke, out of the blow by tube or out of the exhaust then you may want to park it and get a rebuild done.

It could also explain your loss of power while driving.

 

[DJTM]

White smoke is a sign too of a tired engine. If its burning smoke initially when you first start it, that is normal as it could just be running rich on start and that does not mean it's blow by, but if it's continued smoke like 1 minute after starting and onwards, then that is a sign of blow by. It means oil is getting past the rings and burning. That could be a result of the piston walls being scorched or scratched, or it could be the rings are failing but either way it's passing through.

And if it's passing through you'll have less compression. Less compression means less power.

If you are indeed getting continued smoke, out of the blow by tube or out of the exhaust then you may want to park it and get a rebuild done.

It could also explain your loss of power while driving.

Oh it definitely continues after 1 minute, so far it looks continuous. The video I uploaded with the oil cap test was actually 8 minutes long. That whole time, I was recording the blowby hoping it would stop as the engine warmed up, but it never did.

 

[DJTM]

Cam sensor is the #1 cause of 90% of the problems on the t444e when a code isn't present. Check for codes, and if none are stored, replace the cam sensor with one from the dealer only. While doing that check that the harness and connector are in good shape too.

Hey Booyah, check this thread out and tell me what you think.

Installing a NAPA CPS

 

[Booyah45828]

Hey Booyah, check this thread out and tell me what you think.

Installing a NAPA CPS

Sorry that's 14 pages and 400+ replies, I don't have time for that.

We're a napa shop and get a pretty good deal on their parts, and yet I'll still recommend navistar/motorcraft only.

Unless there is something specific in their you want to highlight or comment on, then cut/paste it here.

 

[DJTM]

Sorry that's 14 pages and 400+ replies, I don't have time for that.

We're a napa shop and get a pretty good deal on their parts, and yet I'll still recommend navistar/motorcraft only.

Unless there is something specific in their you want to highlight or comment on, then cut/paste it here.

No worries. So basically the guy swears by the NAPA brand but specifically the Elchin model of the cps. He said the only problem is that there is interference caused by using the wiper blades in the intermittent setting that causes the truck to shut off and that to solve that problem you have to install chokes on several wires. He says that after this it works perfectly and he says it's a superior cps because the ride is overall smoother and quieter because of the stronger magnets used in the cps.

I'll try it, but I'll also get an IH and Ford brand. Would you happen to have part numbers for the ones that have proven reliability?

 

[nikitis]

If the smoke doesn't stop, then it's probably ready to remanufacture the engine.

I've seen it clean - Good condition.
To smoking when starting, but then clearing up after 1 minute - Beginning of the end
To constant smoke - Ready to die if you keep driving it. This is the time to remanufacture it before more damage can occur. There's a great chance it can still be saved.
To Engine cranks but doesn't start - Gone, and remanufacture chances are much lower.

My experience, but others can chime in.

 

[DJTM]

If the smoke doesn't stop, then it's probably ready to remanufacture the engine.

I've seen it clean - Good condition.
To smoking when starting, but then clearing up after 1 minute - Beginning of the end
To constant smoke - Ready to die if you keep driving it. This is the time to remanufacture it before more damage can occur. There's a great chance it can still be saved.
To Engine cranks but doesn't start - Gone, and remanufacture chances are much lower.

My experience, but others can chime in.

I won't put too many more miles on her then. If she can get me through the year I'll be straight. I'll definitely reman the engine after that. But I'll make sure to be vigilant from now on, if I notice the blowby getting worse I'll stop driving it.

 

[Booyah45828]

No worries. So basically the guy swears by the NAPA brand but specifically the Elchin model of the cps. He said the only problem is that there is interference caused by using the wiper blades in the intermittent setting that causes the truck to shut off and that to solve that problem you have to install chokes on several wires. He says that after this it works perfectly and he says it's a superior cps because the ride is overall smoother and quieter because of the stronger magnets used in the cps.

I'll try it, but I'll also get an IH and Ford brand. Would you happen to have part numbers for the ones that have proven reliability?

Maybe he's right, maybe not. I've no experience with the echlin brand cps, nor do I have the ability to test the gauss of a magnet.

I find it odd that he has issues with interference. I'd say he's missing ground straps or rfi covers over the wires, or he replaced them with ones that aren't twisted or something else. From the factory, they had no issues with wipers causing the truck to shut off lol.

Latest # I have is 1821720C91. IDK what the ford number is, I don't have it wrote down.

 

[DJTM]

Maybe he's right, maybe not. I've no experience with the echlin brand cps, nor do I have the ability to test the gauss of a magnet.

I find it odd that he has issues with interference. I'd say he's missing ground straps or rfi covers over the wires, or he replaced them with ones that aren't twisted or something else. From the factory, they had no issues with wipers causing the truck to shut off lol.

Latest # I have is 1821720C91. IDK what the ford number is, I don't have it wrote down.

Ok thanks Booyah, I'm gonna order them right now. I'll experiment with the two and report my experience. Who knows I may not even have that whole wiper issue!

 

[Booyah45828]

Sorry, 1876735C91 is the newest one, idk how that copied wrong.

 

[DJTM]

Sorry, 1876735C91 is the newest one, idk how that copied wrong.

All good, that number kept popping up when I put the first number in, so I ordered one gray and one dark blue plus the NAPA one. I'm curious about the NAPA one but I think I'm gonna install the above part first because I've never experienced the truck with that one. When I replaced in back in 2021 it was with this from parts geek:

1998 International 4700 Camshaft Position Sensor - PC139 Standard Motor Products - $24.18

 

[Omnibot2000]

I second the OEM camshaft sensor booyah mentioned. I like international or Aliant products myself. To many issues with other aftermarket brands. Furthermore. I stay away from anything Dorman unless its a trim piece or fastener. SMP(standard motor products) quality has gone down hill too in my opinion. Parts seem to have short life spans and with out getting into detail, almost blew up an engine I worked on(part failure) with no warning to driver.

As for the blow by, I have seen worse. If the engine starts good when cold without using a block heater that's a good sign. In powerstroke form I have seen these engines to be a pain to start(glow plug circuit good), once started it will smoke a lot out of the tail pipe until they warm up while being worked(pulling trailer). Then if you come to a stop and let the truck idle it will start to smoke again from the tail pipe as it cools down at idle. Had tons of blow by. Engine was plumb wore out, not just one cylinder.

Regardless, there is a spec for maximum crankcase pressure allowed to determine if the engine is worn out. The video I heard running still sound like its running reasonably well from an engine balance standpoint. As per Ford under the 7.3; crankcase pressure is not to exceed 4 inches of water but I didn't find at what RPM this is at. Something tells me that international says no more then 6 inches of water under WOT no load RPM but that has been so long ago............

 

[DJTM]

I second the OEM camshaft sensor booyah mentioned. I like international or Aliant products myself. To many issues with other aftermarket brands. Furthermore. I stay away from anything Dorman unless its a trim piece or fastener. SMP(standard motor products) quality has gone down hill too in my opinion. Parts seem to have short life spans and with out getting into detail, almost blew up an engine I worked on(part failure) with no warning to driver.

As for the blow by, I have seen worse. If the engine starts good when cold without using a block heater that's a good sign. In powerstroke form I have seen these engines to be a pain to start(glow plug circuit good), once started it will smoke a lot out of the tail pipe until they warm up while being worked(pulling trailer). Then if you come to a stop and let the truck idle it will start to smoke again from the tail pipe as it cools down at idle. Had tons of blow by. Engine was plumb wore out, not just one cylinder.

Regardless, there is a spec for maximum crankcase pressure allowed to determine if the engine is worn out. The video I heard running still sound like its running reasonably well from an engine balance standpoint. As per Ford under the 7.3; crankcase pressure is not to exceed 4 inches of water but I didn't find at what RPM this is at. Something tells me that international says no more then 6 inches of water under WOT no load RPM but that has been so long ago............

Ok thanks, I'll stay away from Dorman stuff. The engine has trouble starting in weather below 40 degrees without plugging her up, but I haven't checked the glow plugs yet. She does sound good and most people say that when I start her up, she sounds strong still. I got the new cps's in today so I'm gonna start with the one Booyah recommended, see how it works out.

 

[JenniferWillow]

Thanks La Camioneta. I just changed the filter back in October. Checked the filter and the resovoir and both look normal. Any chance it might still be the fuel filter?

I changed the fuel filter just before our last trip and we experienced something very similar to what you are reporting. First the bus slowed to 20-30 on the freeway on a very gentle slope. Got off the freeway and headed to the diesel mechanic. They read some inactive codes but couldn’t really help with the time we had. We stayed overnight and drove back on surface streets the next day. The bus stalled going through an intersection. About 15 minutes later it started again and we drove the rest of the 70 miles home.
Last week I took it into the International dealership and they found the problem: the fuel strainer just before the lift pump was totally clogged.
My main point is you thought you had changed the filter but did you check the strainer? My fuel filter was new and perfect but the diesel wasn’t getting to it. I mistakenly thought I had covered the fuel filters but I hadn’t.

 

[DJTM]

I changed the fuel filter just before our last trip and we experienced something very similar to what you are reporting. First the bus slowed to 20-30 on the freeway on a very gentle slope. Got off the freeway and headed to the diesel mechanic. They read some inactive codes but couldn’t really help with the time we had. We stayed overnight and drove back on surface streets the next day. The bus stalled going through an intersection. About 15 minutes later it started again and we drove the rest of the 70 miles home.
Last week I took it into the International dealership and they found the problem: the fuel strainer just before the lift pump was totally clogged.
My main point is you thought you had changed the filter but did you check the strainer? My fuel filter was new and perfect but the diesel wasn’t getting to it. I mistakenly thought I had covered the fuel filters but I hadn’t.

Thanks Jennifer! I did clean the fuel strainer and it didn't solve my issue. Turns out my clutch free play wasn't adjusted correctly from when I had it worked on almost 3 years ago. Here's the link to another thread where I found out about it:

Clutch pedal free play

 

[JenniferWillow]

Thanks Jennifer! I did clean the fuel strainer and it didn't solve my issue. Turns out my clutch free play wasn't adjusted correctly from when I had it worked on almost 3 years ago. Here's the link to another thread where I found out about it:

Clutch pedal free play

I’d read that thread yesterday but I didn’t connect the two! Good detective work.

 

[DJTM]

I’d read that thread yesterday but I didn’t connect the two! Good detective work.

This forum, this community is AWESOME!!