2000 T444e low fuel pressure

[WJSHt444e]

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Befor anything I want to thank all for their replies and help it’s greatly appreciated.

I have a 2000 international 4700 dt444e engine made oct 1999. I’ve been having a fuel pressure problem that is putting me at a stump. Before I couldn’t get around the corner without her choking and dying on me just to restart normal and get another couple hundred feet and die again. I’ve swapped the Icp,ipr, orings on injectors and fuel pump. The truck now runs and drives sounds perfect and fuel pressure picked up whenever demanded. But she starts and only sits at 20psi. Whenever I review or drive out sounds fine no Injector clack no smoke no sputter or choking. Driven it for 50miles on the highway and fuel pressure bounced like crazy between 20 and 50psi but would always settle at 30ish psi while doing 70mph with no clack or loss of power. I know this isn’t optimal for the injectors so I don’t run the truck really since it goes otr a lot. Only thing left to replace for me is the fuel pressure regulator to have the whole fuel system redone besides every line but lines been checked and no cracks or leaks. How would I go on finding the problem that’s causing low fuel pressure. Everything’s stock no mods.

 

[Diverdude0075]

Have you replaced the fuel pump? Did you use international or ford sensors when you replaced them?

 

[WJSHt444e]

Yes just replaced the fuel pump which made it stay in and not die anymore while driving. All the sensors I got were from bosctech (Icp and ipr). When first installed fuel pump psi stayed in the 60s the first day then next day dropped to 20 at idle and won’t go over 45 when driving on the freeway and sometimes drops back to 20

 

[Diverdude0075]

Is it an electric fuel pump? If so, it shouldn’t drop and should stay around 60. I’m not sure about the mechanical ones.

Also, how are you reading fuel pressure? Mechanical gauge, connected to before or after the fuel filter?

 

[WJSHt444e]

It’s a mechanical fuel pump that rides the cams to pump. I’m reading fuel pressure with a electric gauge I got from glow shift that goes right in where the shredder valve goes on the bowl housing connected to the fpr

 

[Omnibot2000]

I believe there is a spring with a ball check on these on the fuel filter housing. You pull the plug off, check the spring and ball. They are also replaceable with an upgraded spring to run a little high pressure with split shot injectors. There also could be a piece of dirt in it.

The ICP and IPR really has nothing to do with the fuel system. That is the oil side of the injectors.

Also check your suction lines. Maybe replace them just based on age. You could be drawing in air.

 

[BamaBus]

Fuel pressure regulator at the top rear of engine? Part # for an example 1825511C1.

 

[Omnibot2000]

You have a 444e.

Pull the large brass fitting. Then pull small steel fitting closest to the Schrader valve. Use a little screw driver and push the regulator and spring out.

Check for dirt or bust spring

 

[WJSHt444e]

I appreciate all the post. I have a Fuel Pressure Regulator coming in on Monday at RWC.
@Omnibot2000 international part says my pressure spring is in this brass fitting. When I took the connection you talked about off the fuel bowl I saw the spring inside of this but have to take the brass fitting off to really inspect it

 

[WJSHt444e]

Fuel pressure regulator at the top rear of engine? Part # for an example 1825511C1.

Rwc gave me this part number 1830915C91

 

[Omnibot2000]

That is correct. Remove the brass fitting. Then remove the fitting in front of it to push the spring and plunger out.

I googled your part number. Looks like it has the o-ring, brass fitting, plunger and spring. In other words the Google machine appears to give me an image that looks correct.

 

[WJSHt444e]

You have a 444e.

Pull the large brass fitting. Then pull small steel fitting closest to the Schrader valve. Use a little screw driver and push the regulator and spring out.

Check for dirt or bust spring

Appreciate the pics look damn near exactly like mine. What size wrench did you use to get to fitting loose on both sides to be able to poke out the spring and ball?

 

[Omnibot2000]

Just used a 10 inch crescent wrench. They are not tight. Then used the little screw driver to push it all out.

Make sure it's clean in there.

 

[WJSHt444e]

Will do. I’ll update Monday as I replace with a new one as well. Really appreciate the info saved me another mechanic tryna look at it

 

[Omnibot2000]

To add. It's not a ball. It's like a little piston. Got my **** wrong because we the Ford guys would add a small BB or little ball on the spring to shim it.

Click on my 3rd picture. You see it.

 

[cessna175]

Here's a radically different thought from all the other post, only because all your symptoms we're the same as mine. I'd get about 25 miles from the house every time and then it would start happening. all the trash that accumulated over the years in my fuel tank would get shaken up and slowly begin plugging my pickup screen until I lost fuel pressure. As long as the engine kept running, the problem continued. If I shut down the engine, and wait a bit of time, gravity would allow the trash to settle in the bottom of the tank. The engine would start right back up and run just fine as long as I didn't go for a drive. Then I would go for a drive only for the problem to arise again. It drove me crazy until the light came on!!!! You might need to drop the tank and do a good visual. That fixed my problem. Good luck.

 

[Omnibot2000]

That's a very good point. Something I totally forgot. I know I mentioned leaking suction line, forgot about cracked or plugged pick up in the tank.

 

[cessna175]

That's a very good point. Something I totally forgot. I know I mentioned leaking suction line, forgot about cracked or plugged pick up in the tank.

The inside of my tank was actually coated from the factory in 2002 with this paint like fuel resistant coating. Over time, that coating began peeling off above the fuel because of the corrosion between the metal tank and coating. I just replaced the tank with a new uncoated tank about 10 years ago. Now every 15k mile fuel filter change, I have rust powder in the filter, and I have to flush out the filter housing with diesel through the water drain at the bottom before installing my new filter. You can't win! But its ran fine ever since.

 

[Omnibot2000]

Can switch to aluminum tank if you need too in the future.

 

[cessna175]

Roger that. I do have aluminum tanks on both of my 6x6 military /ThomasBuilt conversions. I have to keep non-bio diesel fuel in them for long term preservation. I run regular pump diesel with all the junk in it in my 7.3/444. I drive it regularly. the fuel is definitely causing the problem. Diesel has a lot of water suspended in it. I should add additional filters. Also when it freezes outside, it causes problems with my inline pump. Makes it slow down. I just can't win. thank goodness I can fix it myself.