2006 DT466 long start

[ewo1]

This is where I saw that the fuel pressure sensor is optional.... and BTW, the reason I am focusing on this and not something else is because of the codes you posted.

Again, I would inspect and verify clean power on the harness for the sensor and ICP.

 

[ewo1]

Here is a section of the EGES-175-1 manual that explains how to test the injector harness.

 

[ewo1]

So now I'm gonna go deep here, something I just learned about. There is an internal, built in fuel regulator Valve INSIDE of the fuel filter.
I have no idea if this would cause your issue but at the very least, you now have the info at your disposable...

from EGES-270-1, page 36, item #6 of the diagram

A built-in fuel regulator valve, calibrated to open at about 414 - 482 kPa (60 - 70 psi), regulates and relieves excessive pressure. During idle and light engine loads, when injector demand is low, most of the fuel is recycled between the fuel filter housing and fuel pump. When engine demand increases, engine fuel consumption increases resulting in less fuel recycling. Under heavy loads fuel flows through the filter with little or no recycling.

 

[ewo1]

Here is some detailed info on testing the (optional) engine fuel pressure sensor.

 

[Idaho Mike]

Just put the charged batteries in. Thought I'd check the fuel pressure from sitting all night, went from 40 psi to 0. Tried to pump it up with the primer for the last few minutes and it will not come up at all. I'm thinking I may have fuel restriction issue perhaps in the tank. Where's the fuel pump on these things?

 

[ewo1]

It may be a blockage or it could be that an air leak in the lines or maybe, the internal regulator....
Take the fuel filter out and pump the primer to see if it sucks fuel into the filter housing.
check for at the filter input a secondary filter screen or maybe a check ball valve..

Go up to post 23, look at the doc I uploaded.
Item #17, there is a cartridge check valve right after the prime pump.

 

[Idaho Mike]

It may be a blockage or it could be that an air leak in the lines or maybe, the internal regulator....
Take the fuel filter out and pump the primer to see if it sucks fuel into the filter housing.
check for at the filter input a secondary filter screen or maybe a check ball valve..

Go up to post 23, look at the doc I uploaded.
Item #17, there is a cartridge check valve right after the prime pump.

There is fuel going into the canister when I pump it. I'm going to drain the fuel and check the fine screen at the bottom of the canister, I did this a while back and it looked like it was cleaned, it was so plugged up with crap. I'll check it again

 

[ewo1]

Good idea to check the fine screen but make sure you check the integrity of that internal check valve. My thinking is if that if the check valve is failing it could possibly be why pressure is dropping on you. I really do not know if this check valve would cause issues under load but.... worth checking on it since you are already there.

I'm thinking that to test the check valve, first for any physical obstructions such as dirt, remove the fuel input line from the filter housing, and then manually fill up the filter housing and see if you have leakage thru that check valve. If you do....replace the valve. Use some brake cleaner to clean the valves.

BTW, does your engine have the OPTIONAL fuel pressure sensor?

 

[Idaho Mike]

it does have the sensor thats on the rail under the valve cover, this has been replaced. I have the valve cover loose, could this cause a no vacuum issue?

 

[ewo1]

it does have the sensor thats on the rail under the valve cover, this has been replaced. I have the valve cover loose, could this cause a no vacuum issue?

The sensor under the valve cover is your ICP. Do you have a sensor mounted on the external of the fuel filter housing as pictured in the docs I uploaded for you? And no, i do not think that would cause the vacuum leak issue.

 

[Idaho Mike]

I'll check for that sensor on the back of the canister, had to find a turkey baster to get the fuel out of the canister, the drain is not working..

 

[ewo1]

I'll check for that sensor on the back of the canister, had to find a turkey baster to get the fuel out of the canister, the drain is not working..

Drain not working because it is plugged ??

Could fuel line contamination (DIRT) be a part of your issue ??? Grab some brake cleaner and completely clean out the fuel filter housing assembly.... now would be the best time to get this piece of maintenance done,

 

[Idaho Mike]

got rained out, I'm in Florida at the moment, but it does have the sensor mounted on the back of the canister. My plan is to take the canister completely out and give it a cleaning. I need to replace the rubber seals from the fuel lines where the nuts are to the cannister.

 

[ewo1]

got rained out, I'm in Florida at the moment, but it does have the sensor mounted on the back of the canister. My plan is to take the canister completely out and give it a cleaning. I need to replace the rubber seals from the fuel lines where the nuts are to the cannister.

Good plan...maybe you can also replace the fuel pressure sensor too.
Where in Florida are you?
After almost 30 years of Miami...I finally left...too crowded for me.

 

[Idaho Mike]

I'm in Brooksville, north of Tamp 50 miles, taking care of my folks estate while they're in Boise

 

[Idaho Mike]

got the canister pulled and thoroughly cleaned, pulled the 2 sensors, the ball check valve at the bottom of the canister which was totally plugged. It's all together just waiting for the fuel line grommets to get here.
I replaced the slimy oil soaked injector harness line with a used dry one with no cracked wires.
I figured out while putting the valve cover back on to start putting in the bolts from the back working towards the front so if there's a problem getting them in the hole in the block because the gasket is a little off it's a lot easier to access from the front.
The main fuel line that goes in the bottom back of the canister has 2 locking tabs on it, one of them broke because they were so damn brittle, at least there's one left, I'll figure out something to take place of the broken one.
Who ever worked on the canister before cover the 2 water drain holes btwn the valve and the canister which is why it would not drain. It must have leaked so the capped it off.
I sure hope what ever I did solves the problem, if not, then on to another procedure...
I can't believe all of the sensors this thing has.....

 

[Idaho Mike]

put it all together and no start, how frustrating, I can pump it up with the prime to around 50psi but it drops right off, can't see any leaks anywhere, gave it a shot of fluid still no start.. any suggestions?

 

[ewo1]

First , please DO NOT use starting fluid !!!
Silicone spray is much safer for the engine.
Silicone spray is not as "Hot" as ether (starting fluid).

You for sure got air in the system...no worries.
when I was working on my engine (rebuild) I loosen, opened up, the air tube right above the hpop and sprayed from there. It has to go a long way if you spray at the air intake (filter housing).
The fact she is losing prime faster than before, double check your work.

 

[Idaho Mike]

First , please DO NOT use starting fluid !!!
Silicone spray is much safer for the engine.
Silicone spray is not as "Hot" as ether (starting fluid).

You for sure got air in the system...no worries.
when I was working on my engine (rebuild) I loosen, opened up, the air tube right above the hpop and sprayed from there. It has to go a long way if you spray at the air intake (filter housing).
The fact she is losing prime faster than before, double check your work.

where could it be losing pressure?? I checked the oil, no fuel in it, I checked under and around the canister and lines. The only thing with a leak is the water drain valve on the canister, it has a drip about every 30 seconds after I pump it up to 30-50lbs but not enough to drain as fast as it is. Where could it leak internally??
The fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the schrader valve on the manifold has a clear drain line on it, when I pump it up and release pressure I get no air at all in the line!
It has to be loosing pressure internally somewhere?!?!
So just regular silicone spray?? never heard of that one!

 

[ewo1]

Post #23 above, item # 17 on the diagram.... Cartridge check valve

I would suspect either this valve is worn, dirty or maybe you installed it wrong???
This would be my first suspect.

I'm gonna go real old skool & broke down in BFE....

The output of the filter housing, remove the output line and plug up the housing output.
Pump up the prime pump....does it hold pressure or does it drop quickly?

Down and dirty way of getting a quick answer....who knows maybe your housing is internally cracked ??/ far fetched but this is troubleshooting... this might help verify if the check ball and cartridge check valve are working properly.