2018 Ford Startrans E450 Senator II Paratransit Bus at auction

Probably DED 4 good

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Joined
Dec 16, 2024
Posts
4
Location
Houston TX
I found an auction that's going for a few more days that has six or seven 2018 Ford Startrans E450 CUTAWAY, 6.8L V10 SOHC 20V. Senator II Paratransit Buses.
Right now they all have between 90k and 130k miles with the auctions between $8k-15k. They look really good but they are in PA and I am in Texas. Plus I have a big trip coming up on Saturday to California so I don't have time to go up in person to look at them. Has anyone converted one of these guys?
I'm just starting my skoolie/ van life journey.

G.V.W: 14,500 Vehicle
Weight: About 9,500lbs
Dimensions: L 23.5ft W 8ft H 10ft 3in

Condition: Good

Running Condition: Good, engine runs, starts. Mechanically: Good.


Driving Condition: Is drivable, ran up to the moment it was taken out of service. Being replaced with a new 2025 model year.

Engine: 6.8L V-10 Gasoline, original

Transmission: Automatic, 5R110W Torque Shift, original

Tires: 225/75R16; Condition: Used: Good

Ricon Wheelchair Lift

Body Style: Cutaway. Starcraft body.

Seating Configurations: 1. 14 Total Passenger Seats 2. 6 Total Passenger Seats with 4 Wheelchair Positions
 
Mine is the same base rig, a Ford E-450, though I have an El Dorado body.

They run really well, and in that model year and with that mileage it's generally a very good choice.

Not sure about pricing, but it sounds in the ballpark.

I'd hesitate to buy without first looking at it in person, unless they have very clear pictures showing the state of rustedness...
 
I was thinking about flying up and looking at it w a mobile mechanic from the area, but I've decided there are too many moving parts in too short notice with my CA trip next week.
 
It makes no sense to buy a rusty PA bus when you live in Texas. Buy a rust free Southwest bus and begin the build! Shuttle busses are not very rust -resistant.
 
They're easy to drive, fit in well (thinking of stealth). I kept the interior pretty much as it was, didn't rip out the interior walls.

I carefully removed all the leaky windows by unscrewing the inner flange, then fixed the 'cardboard' that separates the interior and exterior fiberglass shells by adding plywood spacers the exact thickness of the old corrugated cardboard inner; then I replaced all the crumbling foam under the window flange on the exterior with Yotache 1/4" x 1/2" neoprene weatherstripping and re-screwed the windows in with stainless steel screws. Never a leak thereafter.

I used 3/4" maple veneer plywood to build interior cabinets, walls etc, glueing and screwing them with biscuits, quite the tetris of shapes (but very rigid).

I could tell you more when you get to that point...
 

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