'46 Chevy Shorty

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Just had an EGT placement discussion with a Cummins tech. Lots of people insist on adding them at the rear exhaust port on the manifold. He said nix on that. All the Cummins numbers are based on it being located 4-6" after the turbo on the downpipe. Not sure about other engines, but wanted to pass that along for any Cummins fans.

700 to max 1000 degree range at that point.

If you run a diesel, you need an EGT gauge. And I feel the same about tranny temp. Keeping up with those numbers can save your a$$.
 
so its as easy as that? I can locate it in the pipe? drill a hole, weld a bung wire it up and done?

I keep hearing all the mixed info on beeding to put it in the manifold pre-turbo. as they say the EGT is hottest there..

ive never seen any Navistar numbers to know.. I just have ecveryone saying "if you are stock you dont need it"..

but im a Gauge-Geek. I like Lots of gauges, displays, numbers, needles..

for me since im into "glass" its that Jet-plane look... if I were into analog it would be that "peterbilt dash" Look...

-Christopher
 
Just had an EGT placement discussion with a Cummins tech. Lots of people insist on adding them at the rear exhaust port on the manifold. He said nix on that. All the Cummins numbers are based on it being located 4-6" after the turbo on the downpipe. Not sure about other engines, but wanted to pass that along for any Cummins fans.

700 to max 1000 degree range at that point.

If you run a diesel, you need an EGT gauge. And I feel the same about tranny temp. Keeping up with those numbers can save your a$$.

THAT is good to know. I knew the exhaust is hotter on the pipe end rather than the pre-turbo end. I had a turbo melt down on me in Indiana close to home after a three day run. My truck didn't have a pyro on it at that time. Interesting to see a huge cloud of blue smoke coming out your stack going down I-64 coating everyone behind you....... After that experience a pyro was installed. I knew when I was running hot and to back off the throttle. Saved me a ton of cash. Got better fuel mileage too.....

Great call Tango!

I'll have updates on my thread when I get those gauges in.

M :thumb:
 
Negative. The temp is highest measured right at the rear exhaust port...but the numbers Cummins uses are post turbo. For whatever reason they consider that reading most important.

1200+ degrees are common at the port but Cummins wants you to stay in the range indicated above (700-1000 right behind the turbo).
 
I got it.. so the biggest damage from high EGT's would burn up the turbo before you would start melting pistons.. so take the temp right after turbo as its a good average to stay below.. makes sense..

Now I need to find me a nice cool digital one of those gauges and put it on!
-Christopher
 
Wow my head is spinning on post or pre, 700 degrees or 1200 degrees, I'm scared to think what it is going to be when I get to the dashboard. I started at the rear door and working my way forward. I guess it will do me well to keep track of all these posts. :rofl::eek:

WATCH THE POLICE & THE TAX MAN MISS ME, I'm MOBILE !!!

Come on Caddie !!
 
I got it.. so the biggest damage from high EGT's would burn up the turbo before you would start melting pistons.. so take the temp right after turbo as its a good average to stay below.. makes sense..

Now I need to find me a nice cool digital one of those gauges and put it on!
-Christopher

Exactly Christopher. There's an oil ring on that side with a tendency to let go if it gets too hot. That is the big worry.

M
 
Damn Guido! Thanks... but after that tease...I had to read the entire build thread. Talk about an amazingly talented builder! Make my attempts look cobby & mighty feeble. That guys skill set is truly impressive.

Glad you liked it, hopefully got some creative juices flowing...you never know when inspiration will strike...even in the baking pan aisle.:biggrin:

wow!!! what a cool filter build!!!

TANGO - your skill set is truly impressive!!! you fabricate things in a day most people would give up on or would take a month or more!!

-Christopher

:bow::bow:

Thanks for the kind words, but I am still overwhelmed by the quality & craftsmanship demonstrated on that project.

ONWARD!


Tango, don't sell yourself short, you got quite the little project goin' on yourself. :thumb::thumb:
 
an oil ring in a cylinder? on which engine? 444E? or the oil seal in the turbo?

so how hot is too hot for a 444E ?
-Christopher

Christopher,
It's the oil ring type seal in the turbo.... As far as what engine, it's any engine with a turbo. I'm not sure what's too hot for the 444E, but I suspect it's about the same as for any other turbo engine, about 1400*F or so. Sorry about the confusion and (now realized) hijack..... Oops....

M :facepalm:
 
Thanks Again China --- Well, I finally got word my long awaited (nearly a month) silicone CAC couplers and T-Bolt clamps are "not in stock". Really? Cancelled that order, went to Ebay, searched for a real "Made in USA" company and got an email within an hour that said "your order has shipped".

Better yet...got it all at half the first price.

Screw the Global Economy.
 
Meanwhile, back at the Ranch House... --- Worked out a mock up for some wipers. Hoping to end up with a single motor, pantograph system. The originals were top mounted but when I got her, she had been converted to below the glass using what looked to be an old Lucas, wire rope device that barely moved, let alone "wiped" anything.

Like everything else, mounting wipers is another "space issue". No room below and damned little above. Just taking my best shot at something I hope will work better than what it came with.

Huge thanks to Cowlitz for the AM connection. Those guys seem to really know their stuff. Just hoping that what I "want" is in the realm of possibility (and affordability).

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Have my fingers crossed that AM can put something like this together using real parts instead of cardboard. Should know soon.
 
@tango - I odnt have any updates on the FS10's. as with any issue alot depends on how a system was treated.. ie did the person who's FS10 failed recharge it with wal-mart recharge kits 6 times.. or was the system put together with not enough oil, or too much oil, was it over-revved (big way to kill one).. I always calculate my maximum compressor RPM and try to make sure im well under the limit as well as still fast enough that I get could cooling at idle.

compressors can be bought with different diameter clutch pulleys... and add-on engine pulleys can be made different diameter as well..

i havent looked at yours to see if you are driving it off of the main belt or a separate belt.. most Bus applications drive the compressor(s) off of auxilliary belts.. so if per chance you do ruin the A/C you have a good chance that it wont take out the main drive (and you can still go).

the DEV A/C uses all V-belts.. so when I added its compressor I used a spare goove in the pulley designed for the A/C and a separate belt.

Redbyrd is a serp belt.. and it has a bolt on auxilliary V-belt pulley. so the compressor drives on its own.. in both my cases my compressors are "over-driven" (faster than engine speed). as they are rated at 6000-6500 RPM. and the engines are only 2700 (2900 DT-360). so a 1.5 : 1 overdrive results in nice cooling at idle. and not close to over-rev on the compressors..

the FS-10s got used in a variety of applications. (including mustangs).. so the idea that guys turn up the motors and dont install under-drive pulley kits could be a good reason that so many got nuked.. ive not run across any in diesel trucks. however theres a zillion stangs and gas V-8 trucks / explorers vs diesel trucks.. but it may be because the diesels dont spin fast enough to trash the compressors.. and many diesels are commercially serviced where proper equipment is used to recharge the A/C..

-Christopher
 
From what little I read, it sounded like there was some kind of deterioration of some Teflon seals that contaminated the whole fluid system (?). I'm checking to see if there was ever a "fix", recall or whatever. Also want to find out if there is a date cutoff for these problems. The high-dollar custom bracket/water pump outlet/alt mount is specifically set up for the FS10, so I am deeply concerned.

What fun.
 
so you cant use a Sanden? im thinking thats what the guys at CAC were running on their 4BT's. id have to ask.. one of their trucks is Old and beat all to heck.. but has a turned-up 4BT, an allison 1000 and ice cold A/C (florida priorities)...
-Christopher
 
I've had great luck with Sandens. Had two custom built systems that worked flawlessly. One for 17 years without so much as topping it off. My problem now is the mount that may or may not be adaptable to a Sanden. If I could find an identical mounting bolt pattern it could work but that may not be an option. Still, I plan on doing more research on them and this funky Furd compressor.
 
my last chevy build I used a sanden 7 series (13 cc) gave me 38 degrees at the vents on hgih fan all windows down in the 90s with humidity and didnt freeze the coils.. (its all in how you adjust the expansion device)..

I over-drove the compressor a bit figuring that I had wired in a high RPM cutoff.. the timing computer I used had a couple RPM based outputs (likely designed for shift lights but could be used for anything)..

I accidentilly programmed the output wrong... street-sparred a guy in a "highly" tuned grand national.. ran my RPMs up to 6800 in a second gear pull... noticed ice-frost coming from the vents... realizing that i just first-off beat the GN with my A/C on.. then the horror of "oh crap my A/C didnt shut off"... and that squealing I heard was probably the compressor belt.. (I had just run my A/C pulley at over 8 grand RPM)..

the sanden nevcer flinched.. I had that car 4 years after that and never touched its A/C.. I drove it like I stole it quite often.. (in 20,000 miles I wore out Zero sets of front tires and 2 sets of rears){Eagle GT II's}

so yeah im a fan of sandens..
-Christopher
 
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