'94 TC2000 - how to get the engine out??

dalez-SKO

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Posts
155
Location
Oklahoma
So I'm trying to start making serious progress on my 'shorty' 1991 TC2000 w/ 12v 5.9 cummins. Got it home on the concrete driveway, been crawling all over the thing. Found lots of really nasty looking hoses and seals all over the engine. Heater hoses with bubbles all the way down them, trans cooling lines are rusty and crumbling, the big tappet cover plate gasket is deeply cracked all around, there's oil everywhere... and really I'd like to do some mild mods to the injector pump that cant be done while it's in frame, replace the OVF, make sure the lift pump is good, and other maintenance... and with this thing in the floor it just feels like none of that is really possible. On top of it all, the AT545 is getting swapped with a Allison 2500, so we might as well pull the whole thing right?

How the **** do you get it out? I see the two big lift points on top of the engine, but it doesnt look like there's really room to get my engine crane between the top of the engine and the bottom of the cowling to pull it out the front. Anyone here done it before?
 

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theres a few ways. having a skid steer with forks or an actual forklift is pretty much paramount in an FE bus.. otherwise sa big lift and you drop the front cradle (on some busses).. im not sure on those TC's if the motor sits on a cradle or not.. many RE they do
 
theres a few ways. having a skid steer with forks or an actual forklift is pretty much paramount in an FE bus.. otherwise sa big lift and you drop the front cradle (on some busses).. im not sure on those TC's if the motor sits on a cradle or not.. many RE they do

No skid steer, loaders or such here. Hand and power tools mostly. I do have a "cherry picker"/engine crane, and a big flat motorcycle floor jack. Not above buying some tools to do this safer, but a forklift isnt in the cards.

There's a big curved plate of steel that goes from the frame rails and curves under the front motor mount, that the cradle? The rear of the engine hangs on the frame rails via mounts/brackets on either side of the flywheel housing.
 
sounds like this one isnt on a cradle.. usually the cradle is the engine and the front suspension.. disconnected by pulling the leaf springs but since the engine mount is on the frame this isnt a cradle..


an engine hoist works.. you'll likely need to pull the core support and bumper and such so you can get in closer to the front axle member.. short chain and the hoist reeled in as much as possible (shortest boom you can get away with).. my biggest issue with engine hoists are the tiny wheels on non smooth pavement.. pavement is a must.. (you can get larger casters for your hoist but the issue then is will the front legs fit under the bus front axle. (I dont see being able to pull an engine on grass ior gravel unless you have something that can push / pull the hoist as needed.. ) if I remember right a 5.9 is in the 1200 lbs range.. (ive moved a 7.3 with a harbor freight 2 ton engine hoist and the yare heavier). I seriously would consider separating the transmission since you dont have a forklift or skid steer to work with.. (they can be rented by the day).. this way you only have to lift it enough for the oil sump to clear the axle.. the AT545 is in the 350-400 lb range and would make a real balancing act with a hoist as thered be a lot of front weight..
 
Front axle is behind the transmission so shouldn't be a problem! I figure on pulling all the coolers rad bumper etc and coming straight out the front. The concrete isnt perfect but isn't terrible either. Think I can avoid having to split the transmission off under the bus if I balance the transmission on my motorcycle jack?

The forklift issue is also a matter of space, the front of the bus is only a few feet from my covered carport, absolutely no room on the property for one.
 
pallet jack pallet jack pallet jack, build a cradle out of dimension lumber and roll it right out,, with tranny or w/o works great, 2x12 on oil pan rails, cribbing if you pull tranny with it. I just talked about this a couple months ago with pics, it's in here somewhere.
 
I've been through this with my old 1991 TC2000, so here’s what worked for me. Start by stripping the front end down—take out the radiator, grille, and anything else that’s in the way. You’ll probably need to remove the cowling too to make some space. Once you’ve cleared that stuff, the engine crane should have better access. Make sure you’ve disconnected all hoses, wires, and mounts before trying to lift it out. If you're still having trouble, pulling out the front crossmember can give you that extra bit of room. Good luck with the swap!
 
pallet jack pallet jack pallet jack, build a cradle out of dimension lumber and roll it right out,, with tranny or w/o works great, 2x12 on oil pan rails, cribbing if you pull tranny with it. I just talked about this a couple months ago with pics, it's in here somewhere.

I think I saw your thread!! Looks almost easy! Shopping for pallet jacks on the use market now :giggle:
 
Photos & Link

pallet jack pallet jack pallet jack, build a cradle out of dimension lumber and roll it right out,, with tranny or w/o works great, 2x12 on oil pan rails, cribbing if you pull tranny with it. I just talked about this a couple months ago with pics, it's in here somewhere.

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I used a pallet jack with 2x12's on edge on the oil pan rails where it can support that kind of weight, and the tranny got some support and they came out together. One picture is the 427 w 640 Allison coming out and the DT466 w 3060 Allison going in. Joan and I probably pulled that setup in and out at least a dozen times because I had to locate the pair and build all kinds of mounts, clearances, driveshaft angle etc. This will only work on flat nose busses where the axle is behind the engine and transmission. Build a stout wooden box to support the weight and it's a breeze to roll in and out. Also you can keep the pair together, I never took the tranny off the engine so I maintained factory assembly quality, but then they only had 25,000 miles on them so why bust them apart. If you look at the transmission about 11 o'clock from the rear and most of the way back you can see the kick down potentiometer and the cable running up to the throttle. Unfortunately I can't replace my transmission with a retarder model Allison because the oil pan is 2 fingers away from the axle.....it's close, and a retarder adds a bunch of length to the main body.

2000 International Snub Nose Engine Removal, SportyRick Post #8
 
Thanks Demac for re-posting my info


I forgot about this.. what a slick way to pull a motor!.. pallet jack much more stable with heavy weight on it than an engine swinging on a hoist!



looks like in my area anyway pallet jacks are about 60 bucks a day to rent and can be picked up in a van or pickup.. we know they can handle the weight..


this is cool stuff!!
 

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