Air Pressure Beep Disable Modification.

sorry but im just not onboard with this.. anyone doing this gets the darwin award for the year...

Unfortunately it won't likely be the modifier receiving the award, but the others involved in the accident.


I don't know what position I'm at in the line here(5th or 6th?). But this isn't smart for any reason. Air up the bus, or put a quick connect on it and hook it to shop air.
 
Unfortunately it won't likely be the modifier receiving the award, but the others involved in the accident.


I don't know what position I'm at in the line here(5th or 6th?). But this isn't smart for any reason. Air up the bus, or put a quick connect on it and hook it to shop air.


my thought is air up the bus.. if its leaking down so fast that they cant work on it for a couple hours aired up without beeping then they need to find and repair the air leaks...


I spent hours and hours working on my redbyrd hen I was doingthe transmission swap and ECM / TCM programming... it has hydraulic brakes.. so I had beeping and the brake motor running.. never crossed my mind to consider disabling any of it.. oh and I survived without any harm or discomfort..
 
I get the desire to not want to hear it, I really do. I can tune it out after a while. But someone that's on the autism spectrum or some other disability that noise might be debilitating.

Fortunately, They can shut that off for several hours just by running the bus for 3 minutes. Or if they'll be doing this repeatedly, they can put an air chuck on one of the tanks and backfill the system.

I wouldn't disable the buzzer. That's a cardinal rule in air brakes that you don't even think of doing. Much like caging the rear brakes and driving on the road. :nonono:
 
I'm going to add to this stupid idea, the fact that in some states if you cause a fatal car crash they prosecute you for manslaughter and give you very long prison sentences. One of our competitors had a driver that was unable to stop because his truck was out of adjustment and killed 2 girls in the other vehicle and he got 25 years for it. To be honest I don't think it was enough.

Everybody has tried to explain to you this folly of yours and you just don't get it. If you can't be a safe and RESPONSIBLE operator, keep your ass out of the seat.
 
I'm going to add to this stupid idea, the fact that in some states if you cause a fatal car crash they prosecute you for manslaughter and give you very long prison sentences. One of our competitors had a driver that was unable to stop because his truck was out of adjustment and killed 2 girls in the other vehicle and he got 25 years for it. To be honest I don't think it was enough.

Everybody has tried to explain to you this folly of yours and you just don't get it. If you can't be a safe and RESPONSIBLE operator, keep your ass out of the seat.

That brings up another point is that checking slack adjustment should be part of a somewhat normal routine .. most busses have auto slacks but some of us don’t have auto and even autos can stick esp if they aren’t greased regularly
 
That brings up another point is that checking slack adjustment should be part of a somewhat normal routine .. most busses have auto slacks but some of us don’t have auto and even autos can stick esp if they aren’t greased regularly

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I didn't even know what they were until Christopher explained it to me. I included the photo for the other folks like me.

Safety ought to be our number one advice on this forum. The other social media site have plenty of hacks.
 
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Here is some simple math. 2 pounds per minute is the out of service limit, so if you are at 120 pounds when you shut it off you have 30 minutes to do your whatever you need to do. If you can't make 30 minutes you don't need to drive it anyway. You need to fix the leaks. Most truck and trailer rigs I had to re-cert were in the range of a half to 1 pound per minute. That gives you 1-2 hours to putz around with the key on engine off. Hope this helps.
 
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I didn't even know what they were until Christopher explained it to me. I included the photo for the other folks like me.

Safety ought to be our number one advice on this forum. The other social media site have plenty of hacks.

I'm aware of what slack adjusters are. I had a local mechanic friend teach me about them, and I even installed brand new ones connected to my front air service chambers. Under his supervision to ensure I did them right. They've worked really well since I did that. Was a part of my King Pin fix, I saw how bad of shape mine were in, so I decided to go ahead and fix those too with new ones. New service chambers and slack adjusters. That part of the air system I'm well aware, how to tighten them, etc. Mine are auto tightening after the first adjustment, and then you're supposed to check them every so often by doing a tightening test, then backup a half turn on the square nut.

Those ones Demac has I've never seen look like that, I would upgrade to auto tightening ones. You just have to match up the teeth with the inner spline, if the spline matches up with the auto adjusted ones you can use them, but you likely aren't going to find a part number to match your bus unless someone online has already figured out the problem and spilled the beans on what you can order.

You can likely do a search and search by the teeth count in the spline and use those.

I've never seen a 10 tooth'd spline before so you may have some trouble but I'm not 100% certain on that. Mine were like 26 teeth or something.
 
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I found the debilitating SOB!

I turned on the bus key. NO NOISE!!!!:bow:

No alarms or fault code errors with it out either so it must not even have a fail sensor which could be dangerous if it broke and I didn't notice it. ( I would notice it because I have autism and is part of my strict startup checklist ) But an average person may forget.

Anyway a switch system should be super simple as it's a plug in relay buzzer. I could even hear it clicking like a relay when I was right up next to it.

Despite the fears in here, this is good information to know about our buses. Now I know how to repair it should it break ever on a 1994-97 3box. I'm not afraid of information. Education is key to a free society Let's all learn together.

Part number in case some one needs to replace their broken buzzer in the future.

Part number: 168831C1
5AA 931 394-00
12v buzzer by Kellr

In the last pic you can't see it well because access isn't easy to get a camera there but this is all under the dash but the arrow with green text is the location next to the unknown relay hook.

Since this is SOOO easy to disable in my bus I may not even need to do a modification. I could simply remount the relay mount it plugs into so it's more easily reachable but still hidden, and when I want to work on my bus, leave the buzzer on the seat so I cannot miss it and just don't move it under any circumstances. Then when done diagnosing, just plug it back in. And in the off chance I forget which is like 1 in 100,000,000 I'll have to sit on it.

It's bulky so I won't miss it. Or I could still install a red light as a backup to that failing so I have two warnings it's not working or plugged in making it extra safe.

.....I even put the sharp end up, happy now?:eek:
 

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I'm aware of what slack adjusters are. I had a local mechanic friend teach me about them, and I even installed brand new ones connected to my front air service chambers. Under his supervision to ensure I did them right. They've worked really well since I did that. Was a part of my King Pin fix, I saw how bad of shape mine were in, so I decided to go ahead and fix those too with new ones. New service chambers and slack adjusters. That part of the air system I'm well aware, how to tighten them, etc. Mine are auto tightening after the first adjustment, and then you're supposed to check them every so often by doing a tightening test, then backup a half turn on the square nut.

Those ones Demac has I've never seen look like that, I would upgrade to auto tightening ones. You just have to match up the teeth with the inner spline, if the spline matches up with the auto adjusted ones you can use them, but you likely aren't going to find a part number to match your bus unless someone online has already figured out the problem and spilled the beans on what you can order.

You can likely do a search and search by the teeth count in the spline and use those.

I've never seen a 10 tooth'd spline before so you may have some trouble but I'm not 100% certain on that. Mine were like 26 teeth or something.


those are actually my rear slack adjusters from my superior.. and they have been replaced.. those are the old ones.. I kept them manuals.. my local Truckpro had them on the shelf in stock... the numbers on those didnt come up anywhere.. from what we can tell they were the originals from 1978.... (actually 77 when the bus was built)...
 
I've done a successful test run of the modification.

I rewired the location of the buzzer so it's reachable but not easily recognizable.

I then put an LED trailer light into the buzzers power and ground ports where the buzzer plugged into. The LED lit up yellow and when it hit 60 PSI the LED went off as it should and was expected.

This means the modification will work.

I need to order a Dipole Double throw rocker switch and label it ,"DBD" short for "Diagnostics Buzzer Disable" or Diag Buzz Disabler.

When it is disabled for diagnostics or repair work, a yellow light ( will change it to red to emphasize importance). Will light up above my dash in full visibility where I will have a label to it say, "Buzzer disabled, re-enable DBD switch before driving".

No one will ever drive this bus other than me, including my wife, but it'll be labeled properly should I die suddenly and someone has to.

If the 1 millionth off chance someone drives this bus without me handing it off and explaining this mod to them, they see a huge red light blinding them with a label to flip the DBD rocker switch. And if they still don't get it I'll label with it air pressure warning as well. The light in my testing did go off when it hit 60 PSI as was expected. So it still works as a low air pressure warning.

If I ever do sell the bus, (doubtful as I plan to make this generational). I'll disable the whole mod and restore to normal.

Better pics to come or video. Included pic is bad but it shows the PSI at 60 and the LED off (can't hardly see it but it's at the lower left wall above the hanging J1708 port). It was on before 60 PSI but my tanks will take a long time to drain before I can capture a video of it.
 

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Here's a video of the proof of concept working.

This is not enabled fully yet, but is a proof of concept showing it will work. The rocker switch portion isn't set up yet but it will work if this part works and it does.

You'll see at 60 PSI the light goes off, but is on under 60 PSI. The yellow light (temporary test light for the proof of concept ) will be substituted for a Red Light above the dash in front of the driver and will be labeled appropriately.

The light will also re-enable should the the PSI go back under 60 PSI while driving. However this is a secondary safety feature as this scenario should never occur, but in the event it does it will function as a secondary visual warning.

The buzzer will never be off while driving. If I sell the bus I'll remove the modification and restore it to factory.

Video of proof of concept:
https://youtu.be/9Mm6eT5CXGI
 
I'm glad you got it working.

Personally I don't understand the motivation behind it, but we're all tinkers and sometimes the curiosity gets the best of us.

Most people I told of my bus purchase and future plans with it didn't understand why I did it, they weren't exactly surprised because I just do things like that from time to time but many of them were at least puzzled.

I'm glad you decided to rig up the light as a reminder.
 
Here is a simple wiring diagram for the modification. Subject to change, and likely to.

So when you turn off the beeper, you'll have a RED Light which will be installed on the dash in front of you so you can't miss turning it back on before driving.

There, it's still safe.

Added bonus. If someone is hearing impaired, this mod will work as a visual indicator as well for them, and will auto shut off when the PSI hits over 60 PSI, and the light will come on if it goes under, if left in the Rocker OFF position.


In your drawing I would think the ground off the light would not be switched. You would want that enabled at all times. Any time that buzzer power is hot that light should be on. The buzzer ground on a single pull switch should be all you need.

I did the same thing on my box truck for the rear roll up door. Door open, light and buzzer on.

Just my guess tho.

Good luck and stay safe.
 
I'm glad you got it working.

Personally I don't understand the motivation behind it, but we're all tinkers and sometimes the curiosity gets the best of us.

Most people I told of my bus purchase and future plans with it didn't understand why I did it, they weren't exactly surprised because I just do things like that from time to time but many of them were at least puzzled.

I'm glad you decided to rig up the light as a reminder.

Thank You Sir.

In the final version, the light will be on the dash labeled properly and cannot be missed.

If a driver at that point ignores it, it's the same as him going and disabling it and not re-enabling it on his own. I will not be held responsible. The light will be labeled properly and understood.

The reason I did this is because the beeper used by International is so deafening it causes literal pain to my ears. I can tolerate it shortly but I also do not wish to wear out my 30 year old air compressor daily or engine for that matter while idle not moving just to do some repairs in the "Key On" position. You don't even have to crank it, just if the key is "On" it's beeping piercing my ear drums. it doesn't beep for 10 seconds and stop, it goes forever. For me it's like someone taking a beeper and sticking it directly in your ear on volume level 1000. For doubters, this is not in question it's really that bad for my ears, I literally cannot stand it to the point that I will do this modification. My actions are a direct result of lack of care put forth by International.

In fact, on newer International models you can actually disable it temporarily for diagnostic or repair purposes by pushing in a rocker switch, and holding the dash mile trip counter stick so at some point International realized just how bad this was to add this feature for diagnostics. My model is old and does not have such technology designed into it. I'm only bringing the technology to the 21st century. As I progress and finalize the mod, I'll update this thread, and it will still be safe.

Understand nobody will be driving this bus but me. I have kill switches no one will know about, they won't be able to even turn the bus on without consulting me, so it's not even a matter of other drivers driving the bus and not knowing about the feature (that will be labeled with instructions).

Others are going to disable there buzzer. How many people do it and not say anything? If they are going to do it anyway and put others in harms way, maybe we can at least provide a safer alternative such as a warning light. If others decide to follow in my footsteps, and do this mod that's on them. I've put that in the disclaimer. But at least if they decide to do it, they won't just disable the buzzer all together. I'm at least trying to educate them and providing them a safer alternative where it can be disabled for diagnostics and repair, but be reminded to enable for actual driving which is what the law requires. You guys are failing to see that aspect of it.
 
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I'm going to add to this stupid idea, the fact that in some states if you cause a fatal car crash they prosecute you for manslaughter and give you very long prison sentences. One of our competitors had a driver that was unable to stop because his truck was out of adjustment and killed 2 girls in the other vehicle and he got 25 years for it. To be honest I don't think it was enough.

Everybody has tried to explain to you this folly of yours and you just don't get it. If you can't be a safe and RESPONSIBLE operator, keep your ass out of the seat.

The reason why old truck drivers practically grew up with a 9/16 box end wrench cause they were under adjusting the dang slack adjusters every couple thousand miles.
 
In your drawing I would think the ground off the light would not be switched. You would want that enabled at all times. Any time that buzzer power is hot that light should be on. The buzzer ground on a single pull switch should be all you need.

I did the same thing on my box truck for the rear roll up door. Door open, light and buzzer on.

Just my guess tho.

Good luck and stay safe.

The main ground and power feed will instead of going to the buzzer directly will now go to the Dipole Double throw rocker switch in the center 2 leads.

The ground has to be switched just for the light itself to be tied to the exact ground wire cleanly. I don't want to risk a secondary ground not tied to that system, and the system failing so to be methodical, I'll switch the grounds as well but to the same place.

So I cut both ground and power before the buzzer, rout them to the center 2 leads on the rocker switch, then in the "On" position, (Since it's a disable switch On means buzzer off), the ground wire and power wire leads for ON go to the LED light on the dash I'll install.

The rocker in the "OFF" position with 2 extra leads which the ground and power will go back to the buzzer, and in circuit will act like nothing was touched.

So I could in theory leave the ground alone, and just tie the light's ground into that ground wire, but I want this to be clean and safe so i'll switch both ground and power.

When I wire trailers up, I've had it where I use the body for ground, and sometimes interference would prevent the lights or cause shorts, so I always run wires to every point creating a ground circuit via wire and not rely on the body. It takes more copper to do, but it's far more fail proof.
 
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