Anyone ever fill seat bolt floor holes with these?

[tugboater-SKO]

I welded up all the small rivet holes used to hold down the metal flashing for the center walk way rubber, but don't want to weld up the larger 5/16" seat bolt holes. I'm not skilled enough to fill that big of a hole without leaving an inch long metal booger hanging under the floor. Plus I'd surely negate any galvanizing properties in the process. I was thinking about using the fasteners pictured below (as long as they're a snug fit) dipped in sealer, then maybe cover them in a little flashing tape. Too brittle maybe? That was my first thought, but they are used and hold up well in auto/ATV bumpers & fairings. Anyone seen them used for this before?

 

[farok]

I hadn't considered these, but am definitely doing so now. I was going to simply put a gob of sealer over the holes, but this would definitely be a bit better, I would think! They are plastic so no reactions with the galvanized steel, either. Good thinking, in my mind!

I'm sure the best way to tackle is to patch with more galvanized steel, but then you have questions about the best way to attach the patch. Some sealers react with the galvanized steel, and welding opens up a can of worms on the galvanized steel as well. I'm not a chemist or welder, so I'll pick the easy route you just identified, I think!

Chris

 

[tugboater-SKO]

I'm not a chemist or welder, so I'll pick the easy route you just identified, I think!

Chris

Hi Chris- I have both types shown in the photo coming this week. I'm going to use them for sure if they are a snug fit. I'll let you know how it works and post a couple photos. I need to research a bit more before I make a decision on the sealer. Some of the trusted folks on here say an OEM automotive seam sealer is the way to go...

I reviewed your build thread, we're right at the same stage. Looking forward to watching yours.

Eric

 

[o1marc]

The only downside to those push plugs is the cost. They run anywhere from $.10-$.25. I'd rather just glue a penny over the hole.

 

[tugboater-SKO]

The only downside to those push plugs is the cost. They run anywhere from $.10-$.25. I'd rather just glue a penny over the hole.

I get that for sure o1marc...I've seen packs of just a few for several dollars at the local auto parts store, but found what's in the photo for less than $.10. I am sooo tempted to do the penny thing...it's easy, cheap & the perfect size. But I worry a tiny bit about the dissimilar metal thing...even with a coat or two of good paint and a sealer. I don't mind spending the little extra for piece of mind.

If the fasteners I ordered don't fit well I'll default to the penny thing...or maybe plastic funny money!

 

[o1marc]

I get that for sure o1marc...I've seen packs of just a few for several dollars at the local auto parts store, but found what's in the photo for less than $.10. I am sooo tempted to do the penny thing...it's easy, cheap & the perfect size. But I worry a tiny bit about the dissimilar metal thing...even with a coat or two of good paint and a sealer. I don't mind spending the little extra for piece of mind.

If the fasteners I ordered don't fit well I'll default to the penny thing...or maybe plastic funny money!

An electrolyte is a substance that produces an electrically conducting solution when dissolved in a polar solvent, such as water. ... A substance that dissociates into ions in solution acquires the capacity to conduct electricity. Sodium, potassium, chloride, calcium, magnesium, and phosphate are examples of electrolytes.
If done carefully the penny actually won't touch the metal, the layer of adhesive will insulated it. Galvanic corrosion is often brought up here and I think it is not an issue. The 2 metals then need an electrolyte to complete the process, this doesn't happen often in our application. Much ado about nothing.


An electrolyte is a substance that produces an electrically conducting solution when dissolved in a polar solvent, such as water. ... A substance that dissociates into ions in solution acquires the capacity to conduct electricity. Sodium, potassium, chloride, calcium, magnesium, and phosphate are examples of electrolytes. If you do all your priming and paint on the floor before covering the holes there is insulation between the coin and the metal floor.

 

[tugboater-SKO]

I'm not a chemist or welder, so I'll pick the easy route you just identified, I think!

So my fasteners came in. The push style in the photo I attached earlier in the thread are too loose in my opinion, but the screw type fit snug as a bug into a 5/16" hole. The collar part slides into the holes with a little push of the thumb...once you turn the screw in, they are SOLID. The profile above deck is just a hair thicker than a nickel. I'm going to use them in conjunction with seam sealer & call it good. They are pretty sturdy little units too. I don't think they'd break easily. $.07 a piece on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HT49K2F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[farok]

Excellent info - thanks!!

 

[adic27]

So my fasteners came in. The push style in the photo I attached earlier in the thread are too loose in my opinion, but the screw type fit snug as a bug into a 5/16" hole. The collar part slides into the holes with a little push of the thumb...once you turn the screw in, they are SOLID. The profile above deck is just a hair thicker than a nickel. I'm going to use them in conjunction with seam sealer & call it good. They are pretty sturdy little units too. I don't think they'd break easily. $.07 a piece on amazon.
View attachment 31240
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HT49K2F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am going this route using dynatron 550 to seal. Did you apply the seam sealer straight to bare metal or use rustoleum then some kind of paint first?

Thanks for sharing!

 

[DeMac]

$7 for 100pcs (auto fastener rivet clip) by Uxcell on Amazon

First, prime and/or paint inside the seat hole to protect the steel. Then seal to the paint. I used PL Loctite-Roof & Flashing sealant. I used 9mm. 10mm would also work. Nothing smaller.

 

[adic27]

$7 for 100pcs (auto fastener rivet clip) by Uxcell on Amazon

First, prime and/or paint inside the seat hole to protect the steel. Then seal to the paint. I used PL Loctite-Roof & Flashing sealant. I used 9mm. 10mm would also work. Nothing smaller.

I was debating on weather I should go up to 9mm since I tested about 5 and while they fit kinda snug, I'm still able to spin them pretty easily and one was easy to pull up. Still not sure if the Dynatron Seam Sealer will work well on painted surfaces. I know it's fine on bare metal. Have any experience with it?

 

[musigenesis]

I was debating on weather I should go up to 9mm since I tested about 5 and while they fit kinda snug, I'm still able to spin them pretty easily and one was easy to pull up. Still not sure if the Dynatron Seam Sealer will work well on painted surfaces. I know it's fine on bare metal. Have any experience with it?

Dynatron-550 works great on painted (or even just primed) metal. Also sticks to wood, for whatever that's worth.

 

[adic27]

Dynatron-550 works great on painted (or even just primed) metal. Also sticks to wood, for whatever that's worth.

Thanks! Hope that applies rustoleum rust preventive oil based paint as well

 

[cntryby]

Take some scrap sheet metal and cut little patches, it can be big enough to use rivets, or weld. Put a thin piece of foam tape over the patch if you're going to rivet it down. Paint before riveting You probably should paint before welding too. I know most of it will burn off, but it's better than none... I think. Just clean the paint off where your gonna weld.

If you have a friend, have them hold a sacrificial piece of aluminum under the holes and just fill them with weld, then grind it smooth.

Any of those need to have some undercoating on the bottom when done.

 

[o1marc]

Glue pennies, because they cost like a penny.:wink1: