Bathroom next to queen bed

[karrlot]

I am trying to finalize my floor plan.

I would like to put a queen bed in the back with a toilet room next to it. There would be a wall between the two.

On paper, it looks doable. inside wall to wall is 90". I would have 63" (a mattress is 60") width for the bed, a two inch wall, 24" wide bathroom, and an inch to spare.

My concern is that if I miscalculated anything or am forgetting something, I will have less than a 2' wide bathroom, which is pretty much as narrow as I can go.

Have you seen anyone make this work?

When you went from plans on paper to boards in the bus, how accurate or far off were your plans? How many inches should I leave to spare?

 

[Dapplecreek]

Well, I have this friend who keeps on visiting... his name is Murphy...

 

[karrlot]

Well, I have this friend who keeps on visiting... his name is Murphy...

And Murphy says it will be No Problem? Great!

 

[jjhwick119]

sounds about right. Im doing a full XL mattress (54")with a bathroom at 30" with a 2.5 inch wall.

 

[Iceni John]

Why does everyone make their walls like they're in a house? Framing a divider wall with studs makes no sense in a bus. You can either use a 3/4"-thick door cut down to size (cheap and easy), or what I'm doing is to use 1/2" marine ply with 1/8" Celtek board on either side. My walls are therefore all 3/4" thick, secured into 3/4"-internal width 6063 aluminum channel that's attached to the floor, side walls and ceiling. Doing it this way has saved me 5.25" of internal space for the three divider walls on each side compared to being made with studs. Those walls don't need to be hollow because all the power and plumbing will be inside chases in the side walls.

Think outside the box! When planning the interior, especially in a school bus with only about 7.5 feet internal width, you MUST save every inch, or even a fraction of an inch, wherever you can. I spent literally weeks obsessing over how to mount my side walls' paneling so it would save 3/4" of total space from my original idea. Every little bit helps.

John

 

[jjhwick119]

It does make sense if i have a large stack of 2x3's and need to build stuff. There is no right or wrong way to do this. I have the luxury of not needing worry about the space as much as you do apparently, and it's not a MUST to save every fraction of an inch possible. I didn't buy a bus to worry like that. I had enough space that i added a garage space in the back and even expanded the area towards the front of my bus to give more space than my initial design.

 

[karrlot]

Why does everyone make their walls like they're in a house? Framing a divider wall with studs makes no sense in a bus. You can either use a 3/4"-thick door cut down to size (cheap and easy), or what I'm doing is to use 1/2" marine ply with 1/8" Celtek board on either side. My walls are therefore all 3/4" thick, secured into 3/4"-internal width 6063 aluminum channel that's attached to the floor, side walls and ceiling. Doing it this way has saved me 5.25" of internal space for the three divider walls on each side compared to being made with studs. Those walls don't need to be hollow because all the power and plumbing will be inside chases in the side walls.



John

Side to side, that would only save me an inch and a quarter.

 

[ComfortEagle]

Why does everyone make their walls like they're in a house? Framing a divider wall with studs makes no sense in a bus. You can either use a 3/4"-thick door cut down to size (cheap and easy), or what I'm doing is to use 1/2" marine ply with 1/8" Celtek board on either side. My walls are therefore all 3/4" thick, secured into 3/4"-internal width 6063 aluminum channel that's attached to the floor, side walls and ceiling. Doing it this way has saved me 5.25" of internal space for the three divider walls on each side compared to being made with studs. Those walls don't need to be hollow because all the power and plumbing will be inside chases in the side walls.

Think outside the box! When planning the interior, especially in a school bus with only about 7.5 feet internal width, you MUST save every inch, or even a fraction of an inch, wherever you can. I spent literally weeks obsessing over how to mount my side walls' paneling so it would save 3/4" of total space from my original idea. Every little bit helps.

John

John, I like the idea of using a cut down door, and will likely use that approach for the two small walls in my bus. In fact you consistently provide value added feedback here, and I (and I'm sure others) appreciate your input.

However, telling your fellow forum members what we "MUST" do, may create barriers to folks taking your valuable advice.

 

[somewhereinusa]

In your description you said toilet room then later bathroom. Is it just for toilet or toilet and shower or toilet, shower and sink? Even with just a toilet 24 inches seems just too small. This picture is of me standing in front of a cabinet that is 24 inches wide.(outside dimensions)

Make a mock up of a couple of walls and sit a chair in it and see how it feels. Most public toilet stalls are 30".

 

[CaptSquid]

I've got a full-sized bed (between twin and queen) mounted longitudinally. The composting toilet is at the foot of the bed (no walls yet) right next to the e-door..

 

[roach711]

I used 3/4" plywood between our bed and shower. Carpet on one side and FRP on the other side for the shower. I added some oak to the edge as a stiffener. Totally solid.

 

[karrlot]

Here is what I was thinking:

The back of the bus is on the left, the front on the right.

The lower left corner is my queen bed.

Above that is a space that is 65"x24".

The top left corner is an empty space that would be storage/drawers accessed through the bedroom.

To the right of that is the toilet/shower combo. In front of that is a corner bathroom sink then a wall. On the other side of that wall is the kitchen sink.

The whole area for the toilet, shower, and corner sink is only 2' wide but about 6 1/2' long. The front 8" of that is the start of the wheel well.

The little line and dot next to the sink is where the wheel well starts. Both of the sinks are above the wheel well.

 

[roach711]

With the kitchen sink so close the bathroom sink probably could be deleted. Will you be able to get past the passenger seat to get in and out?

 

[o1marc]

I could never live in a space this small, but if I had to I would consider a shorter undercounter fridge and move the sink/stove pod over to make room for the shower. This might require you having a slightly taller countertop to put the drop in stove over the fridge. Maybe a separate oven under the sink. Just thoughts. I'd get used to the raised counter top a whole lot sooner than living in a tight space with no room for expansion.
A Full size mattress saves you 7" more, just sayin. I sleep on a Queen at home and only use about 18" of one side. In a bus, a twin would be more than enough for me. A Full can be comfy for 2, sometimes.

 

[karrlot]

With the kitchen sink so close the bathroom sink probably could be deleted. Will you be able to get past the passenger seat to get in and out?

Actually the bathroom sink was an afterthought. I figured I could put a corner sink in there.

The drivers seat and stairs are not pictures. They would be to the right of those two chairs.

 

[karrlot]

Thanks for your thoughts on this!

I could never live in a space this small, but if I had to I would consider a shorter undercounter fridge and move the sink/stove pod over to make room for the shower.

I can only move the shower about a foot forward. The wheel well starts at that line by the bathroom sink. It continues forward and stops between the sink and stove.

I've seen very small toilet/shower/sink combos in my folks' Casita. I'm kind of thinking of something like that where I'll walk through the shower to get to the can. The room that you need in front of the toilet for your legs, will be in the shower pan.

I could also move the shower to the passenger side of the bus, but then I'll have to run the plumbing across the bus.


A Full size mattress saves you 7" more, just sayin. I sleep on a Queen at home and only use about 18" of one side. In a bus, a twin would be more than enough for me. A Full can be comfy for 2, sometimes.

I've thought of a full, but its my wife and I. We don't get along well when we sleep so we can't go any smaller

 

[mattmcco]

I am trying to finalize my floor plan.

I would like to put a queen bed in the back with a toilet room next to it. There would be a wall between the two.

On paper, it looks doable. inside wall to wall is 90". I would have 63" (a mattress is 60") width for the bed, a two inch wall, 24" wide bathroom, and an inch to spare.

My concern is that if I miscalculated anything or am forgetting something, I will have less than a 2' wide bathroom, which is pretty much as narrow as I can go.

Have you seen anyone make this work?

When you went from plans on paper to boards in the bus, how accurate or far off were your plans? How many inches should I leave to spare?

This doesn't have to do with the measurements, necessarily, but...I would suggest mounting a mirror, full length, on the wall between the bathroom and the bed. Not for any "intimate" reason, but because you don't want the "energies" of the bathroom and the bedroom intermingling, and a mirror between the two would prevent that.

Your plan sounds great, by the way!

Gassho,

Matthew Morris McCormick
Former Owner,
1971 Crown Supercoach
220 Cummins Pancake, 13 Speed Spicer

 

[Iceni John]

John, I like the idea of using a cut down door, and will likely use that approach for the two small walls in my bus. In fact you consistently provide value added feedback here, and I (and I'm sure others) appreciate your input.

However, telling your fellow forum members what we "MUST" do, may create barriers to folks taking your valuable advice.

Most RVs and all buses these days are 102" wide, except for school buses that are still only 96" wide. The extra 6" width of an MCI or Eagle makes them seem much more spacious inside than any 96" vehicle. To add to that (actually, to subtract from that), my bus has sloping side walls, not quite as much as an RTS's, but I still lose some more internal width that way. Even with a straight-walled bus like most skoolies, if you're not careful you can end up making the interior several inches smaller than it needs to be - an inch lost here, a few fractions of an inch lost in several other places, and before you know it you've lost a lot. It all adds up (so to speak). My intention is to make my bus seem as spacious inside as a 102" bus, and that will need some subtle tricks with sight lines and color, even paying attention to where shadows fall inside at different times of the day, and ruthlessly trimming any wasted space. I'm getting some of my ideas not from other bus conversions (and definitely not from most RVs that are simply miserable inside), but from custom aircraft interiors and high-end yachts and power boats. Their designers use every trick in the book to create an illusion of space, and one thing they all universally do is reduce the thickness of walls and partitions to help achieve that goal. Does a multi-million dollar Gulfstream jet or Italian mega-yacht have walls made with 2x4s?

Sorry if I appeared too emphatic, but size does matter!

John

 

[ComfortEagle]

Most RVs and all buses these days are 102" wide, except for school buses that are still only 96" wide...

Sorry if I appeared too emphatic, but size does matter!

John

You had me at hello...

 

[astro_school86]

Did it work?

Did you finish your build? I'm also putting a queen in my build and I want a walkway on the driver's side of the bus with the bed pushed up against the opposite wall.