Best Preventative Maintenance Upgrades for High-Mileage Cummins 24V

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Members reviewed a detailed maintenance history for a 2002 Bluebird TC1000 with a Cummins 24V engine at 250,000 miles, focusing on how to wisely use a $10,000 emergency fund for preventative care. There was strong consensus on prioritizing safety-related items: replacing the 6-year-old fan belt, inspecting the air brake system, replacing cracked air bags and bushings, and servicing fluids (transmission, differential, hub oil). Members advised against depleting the emergency fund, emphasizing... More...

Jsneeb

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Posts
173
Location
Southern Utah
Hi Folks,

I have owned Hoodoo, my 2002 Bluebird TC1000 Cummins 24V for 6 years now, and in the time I have owned it I have been the only one to do any work / maintenance to it. Meanwhile I had been putting away 1500-2000 per year for emergency maintenance fund, like if an engine or trans blew. But in the 6 years that has never been touched and is now a pretty hefty emergency fund. I would like to take the chance to use some of the money for more in depth preventative maintenance but I'm not sure what would be the best spend of the money.

Below is a comprehensive list of everything that has been done to the bus under my ownership and estimated mileages ( estimated because Odo doesn't work unless I plug in a computer to read it ) Doesn't include oil changes but rest assured those were done every 5000 miles or ever year if the bus was sitting, same goes for air filter which is regularly blown out with compressed air. Every other year I send in oil for analysis at Blackstone labs and it's come back good every time.


2019- 200,000 - Bus purchased
2019 - 200,000 - Two new batteries
2019- 200,000 - Air brake service at truck shop ( replaced air dryer cartridge, fixed a few slow leaks on air brake lines and inspected brake system, inspected OK )
2020 - 210,000- Crankshaft position sensor started flaking out - replaced with OEM
2020 - 210,000- Both fuel filters
2020- 215,000 - two new front tires
2020- 215,000 - greased every grease point on brakes suspension and driveline
2021- 225,000 - four used rear tires ( but only 3 years old )
2021 - 225,000- both fuel filters
2021- 225,000 - greased every grease point on brakes suspension and driveline
2022- 230,000 - oil pressure sensor died - replaced with aftermarket sensor
2023- 235,000 - replaced both trans filters,
2023 - 235,000 - replaced air brake cartridge again
2023- 235,000 - replaced both fuel filters
2023 - 240,000 - greased every grease point on brakes suspension and driveline
2023 - 240,000 - attempted to replace coolant but after draining it looked totally clean and fresh. put back old coolant.
2023 -240,000 - purchased 6 brand new Bosch injectors but never installed them.
2023 - 240,000 - replaced U join ( just to see if I could do it with the tools I carry onboard the bus )
2023 - 240,000 - replaced all silicone boost joints / couplings.
2024 - 250,000 - Brake system inspected again, mechanic said no need to replace anything
2025 - 255,000 - Two new front tires ( 5 year old fronts rotated to rear dual insides )
2026 - 255,000 - one new battery.
2026 - 255,000 - greased every grease point on brakes, suspension, and driveline.


So here is what I'm thinking but also looking for feedback and suggestions on what is important to do at this time. I can handle tasks like oil / filters / greasing / or inspection of regular items but cant do much that needs heavy tools.

1: Replace fan belt? ( it looks totally ok but its over 6 years old and looks like a PITA to replace - Id be happy to pay someone to do it rather than me have to do it on side of the road.
2: Inspect air brake system again?
3: replace air bags on air ride suspension ( they have dry rotting and cracks visible )
4: Replace suspension / torsion bar bushings ( they are cracked or broken but dont make any noise or anything )
5: Trans fluid flush and replace?
6: Trans has a slow leak, has had it since i bought the bus, get it fixed? ( leaks ~~ 1.5 Qt per year )
7: Replace hub oil on the front wheels?
8: Differential fluid flush and replace?
9: Get an ECM tune for more power?

Open to any and all ideas - Aftermarket fuel pressure gauge so I can monitor my Vp44? - KDP preemptive fix? - water methanol injection? - have a shop tear down the engine for an in-frame refresh/rebuild?


Overall the bus runs perfectly fine, start up hot or cold, doesn't smoke. Shifts ok in all gears, steers straight, gets 9.5-10.5mpg.

I'm in this unusual position that I have about 10 grand burning a hole in my wallet that I have allocated for bus maintenance-ing so what should I best spend it on?
 
Hi Folks,

I have owned Hoodoo, my 2002 Bluebird TC1000 Cummins 24V for 6 years now, and in the time I have owned it I have been the only one to do any work / maintenance to it. Meanwhile I had been putting away 1500-2000 per year for emergency maintenance fund, like if an engine or trans blew. But in the 6 years that has never been touched and is now a pretty hefty emergency fund. I would like to take the chance to use some of the money for more in depth preventative maintenance but I'm not sure what would be the best spend of the money.

Below is a comprehensive list of everything that has been done to the bus under my ownership and estimated mileages ( estimated because Odo doesn't work unless I plug in a computer to read it ) Doesn't include oil changes but rest assured those were done every 5000 miles or ever year if the bus was sitting, same goes for air filter which is regularly blown out with compressed air. Every other year I send in oil for analysis at Blackstone labs and it's come back good every time.


2019- 200,000 - Bus purchased
2019 - 200,000 - Two new batteries
2019- 200,000 - Air brake service at truck shop ( replaced air dryer cartridge, fixed a few slow leaks on air brake lines and inspected brake system, inspected OK )
2020 - 210,000- Crankshaft position sensor started flaking out - replaced with OEM
2020 - 210,000- Both fuel filters
2020- 215,000 - two new front tires
2020- 215,000 - greased every grease point on brakes suspension and driveline
2021- 225,000 - four used rear tires ( but only 3 years old )
2021 - 225,000- both fuel filters
2021- 225,000 - greased every grease point on brakes suspension and driveline
2022- 230,000 - oil pressure sensor died - replaced with aftermarket sensor
2023- 235,000 - replaced both trans filters,
2023 - 235,000 - replaced air brake cartridge again
2023- 235,000 - replaced both fuel filters
2023 - 240,000 - greased every grease point on brakes suspension and driveline
2023 - 240,000 - attempted to replace coolant but after draining it looked totally clean and fresh. put back old coolant.
2023 -240,000 - purchased 6 brand new Bosch injectors but never installed them.
2023 - 240,000 - replaced U join ( just to see if I could do it with the tools I carry onboard the bus )
2023 - 240,000 - replaced all silicone boost joints / couplings.
2024 - 250,000 - Brake system inspected again, mechanic said no need to replace anything
2025 - 255,000 - Two new front tires ( 5 year old fronts rotated to rear dual insides )
2026 - 255,000 - one new battery.
2026 - 255,000 - greased every grease point on brakes, suspension, and driveline.


So here is what I'm thinking but also looking for feedback and suggestions on what is important to do at this time. I can handle tasks like oil / filters / greasing / or inspection of regular items but cant do much that needs heavy tools.

1: Replace fan belt? ( it looks totally ok but its over 6 years old and looks like a PITA to replace - Id be happy to pay someone to do it rather than me have to do it on side of the road.
2: Inspect air brake system again?
3: replace air bags on air ride suspension ( they have dry rotting and cracks visible )
4: Replace suspension / torsion bar bushings ( they are cracked or broken but dont make any noise or anything )
5: Trans fluid flush and replace?
6: Trans has a slow leak, has had it since i bought the bus, get it fixed? ( leaks ~~ 1.5 Qt per year )
7: Replace hub oil on the front wheels?
8: Differential fluid flush and replace?
9: Get an ECM tune for more power?

Open to any and all ideas - Aftermarket fuel pressure gauge so I can monitor my Vp44? - KDP preemptive fix? - water methanol injection? - have a shop tear down the engine for an in-frame refresh/rebuild?


Overall the bus runs perfectly fine, start up hot or cold, doesn't smoke. Shifts ok in all gears, steers straight, gets 9.5-10.5mpg.

I'm in this unusual position that I have about 10 grand burning a hole in my wallet that I have allocated for bus maintenance-ing so what should I best spend it on?
Very smart thinking!
Money goes real fast and in the end you will still need that emergency fund so don't deplete it all at once!

Me, I would continue to do what ever I could and save money... labor rates are ridiculous!

safety items always first, on the top of the list...tires, brakes...

your list-
1: Replace fan belt? = YES !
2: Inspect air brake system again? - Yes
3: replace air bags on air ride suspension ( they have dry rotting and cracks visible ) -Yes!
4: Replace suspension / torsion bar bushings - Yes
5: Trans fluid flush and replace? - Maybe - filters for sure but if fluid still red, leave it alone.
6: Trans has a slow leak, has had it since i bought the bus, get it fixed? - Where is it leaking front seal ??? then yes!
7: Replace hub oil on the front wheels? - yes
8: Differential fluid flush and replace? - yes
9: Get an ECM tune for more power? Are you building a race bus?

The majority of this you can do yourself for cheap...save your cash! 10 grand emergency funds are a god send when you breakdown in BFE and the wolves are all out to get ya!

Now if it really burning a hole in your pocket, you can just zelle me half and the burn won't be as bad... LOL...
 
Lol


Thank you! lol. Sounds like these are a good place to start but I am looking for more suggestions .

To answer questions:

The trans is leak has been difficult to find - but Im confident it is NOT the front seal. I belive it is one of the hoses that runs to the cooler or the pan seal where the hoses attach.

ECM tune for more power - I live in the rockies and the bus by itself does OK even on steep grades. But pulling my toad ( honda element ) or my single axle trailer is noticeable even though they are not particularly heavy. I would love to be able to stay in a higher gear ( 3rd or 4th ) for the hills with a trailer. Currently I have to shift down to 2nd.
 
The belt should be changed, but while you are in there check every bearing in the belts path. The alternator, idlers and water pump while you are in there. If one of them goes south you will be on the side of the road. If you look at the ratio splits between each gear it is 30-40 percent so you will have to add close to that much power. Can you do that without overheating critical engine parts? That will eat up your safety nest egg real fast. Another thing I would mention, find a good mechanic that you trust and don't forget him at Christmas and his birthday. Unless you would like to learn to do some of it yourself. It looks like you have a handle on this.
 
Make sure the fuel "lift pump" (not injection pump) is providing adequate pressure, I recommend a gauge and "idiot light". Low pressure KILLS the injection pump and puts you on the side of the road.

Valve adjustment.
 
Great suggestions!

I will add valve adjustment to the list.

I already have Idiot light for the fuel pressure, but have considered an additional fuel pressure gauge as backup.

Frankly, I could do all of these tasks if I had some heavier duty tools. I'm also kinda burned out on mechanical project at the time ( finished three engine swaps last year 1 motor bike, 1 land cruiser, and 1 volvo ) so I just havent got the energy to work on the bus as much. that could come back by summer time though.

I would like to find a mechanic I can trust. How do you guys go about this? I so rarely take anything to a mechanic and I move around the country regularly. Currently in Southern Utah / Las Vegas area and would be happy for a recomendation.
 
Make sure the fuel "lift pump" (not injection pump) is providing adequate pressure, I recommend a gauge and "idiot light". Low pressure KILLS the injection pump and puts you on the side of the road.

Valve adjustment.
Heat is your number 1 killer on the VP44.

these are not really "Maintenance" suggestions but... armed with the knowledge of what can occur you might want to review these and see what makes sense to you to look at from a preventive maintenance point of view.

VP44 Troubleshooting​

Quick Reference​

courtesy of -> Blue Chip Diesel | Quick Reference Guide
 
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Heat is removed from the injection pump by the excess fuel supplied by a healthy lift pump.
 
The best way is to ask other people that have trucks like yours, medium duty freightliners, and ask them who they are happy with. You say southern Utah like St George? Volvo and Landcruiser lover are you?
 
Heat is removed from the injection pump by the excess fuel supplied by a healthy lift pump.
True, but running the tank low, you lose that precious fuel "volume" to keep it cool.
It doesn't fail immediately. It is a long slow process of a slow death.
So at this point it's not pressure but volume.
This has been well documented.

A strong healthy lift pump is what is required for sure!

I myself am guilty of running on "E" many times!
glad I don't have a vp44, whew!

The fuel gauge letter "E" in Spanish = Echale' means "Put some in!

LOL...
 
This is a good application for a fuel cooler. I have one on my coach but havent finished the install. It goes in the A/C return line and uses the return freon to cool the return fuel going back to the tank. I think I harvested it from a Mercedes S class car.
 
Buy a second engine, rebuild and do a p-pump 7100 conversion to get away from the VP44?
 
True, but running the tank low, you lose that precious fuel "volume" to keep it cool.
It doesn't fail immediately. It is a long slow process of a slow death.
So at this point it's not pressure but volume.
This has been well documented.

A strong healthy lift pump is what is required for sure!

When at the dealership, the "word from corporate" was the lift pump needed to supply excess fuel. That is WAY more important that the amount of fuel in the tank. For any "newbs" that may be confused, make sure the VP44 has more fuel than it can use.
 
I would keep saving until you hit $25k. An engine replacement could cost you close to that, Anything over that I think what you are considering is a good idea.
 

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