Best Way To Jack Coach Bus?

[MarkyDee]

First, thank you all for the info and advise. Most of it is what I've gleaned from other places, but it is very nice to hear from people who've "been there, done that" - especially with respect to cribbing (firemen, my hat off to you!).


Second, I've ordered and received most of my first-round tools:


1. 2 of Harbor Freight's 20 ton bottle jacks:
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html


2. 2 of Amazon's 22-ton jack stands:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-1780-Jac...on+jack+stand&qid=1556223974&s=gateway&sr=8-3


3. 2 sets of 2 (total of 4) wheel chocks:
https://www.uscargocontrol.com/2-Rubber-Wheel-Chocks-with-Wide-Carry-Handle-8x6x8


3. 4x4 cribbing - I'll buy the day of (which may be as early as this Saturday) on an as-needed basis - I'm hoping the jack stands will do all I need, but I probably will get cribbing to set my jacks and wheels on.



4. 6-gallon pancake compressor - max pressure of 165 psi (however, only going for 120).


Third, I'm going to try to do the jacking without airing up the pneumatic system first. I'm concerned that using the pancake compressor for such a job will kill it. I don't have access to a more "robust" compressor at the moment. I'm also concerned that the humidity will get into my air lines if my air dryer doesn't work (as the engine won't be running and the electrical system will be off). However, my air valve in the engine compartment goes to the muffler tank, which is the first tank air goes to coming from the engine compressor, so if the air dryer does work then I'm "home free" on that front.


----------


Order of operations:
1. Chock front wheels.
2. Position bottle jacks under the "hoisting points".
3. If I can't get them there, then I'll try the "jacking points".

4. If that isn't successful, then I'm going to have to air up the bus and try 2 and 3 again.
5. If I'm still not successful, then I'm going to ... eh, come up with another way to jack....
6. Once the bus is in the air, I'm going to try to get it high enough to get the jack stands under it. I'll also put cribbing under the wheels to try and stabilize.
7. If I can't get under at that point, then I'll air down the bottle jacks, crib them, and lift again. Either move the jack stands up a hole or two or crib them, along with cribbing the wheels. Rinse & repeat until I can get under - safely.

I eventually want a minimum of three points of contact (and preferably 4) on both sides: 1. chocked front wheels; 2. jack stand, 3. bottle jack, and 4. cribbed back wheel(s). (I don't think the cribbed back wheels are absolutely necessary if I have the jacks in the right place, but it certainly will give me more peace-of-mind in crawling under 30k+ lbs. of steel and machinery....


Thoughts???

 

[Sleddgracer]

First, thank you all for the info and advise. Most of it is what I've gleaned from other places, but it is very nice to hear from people who've "been there, done that" - especially with respect to cribbing (firemen, my hat off to you!).


Second, I've ordered and received most of my first-round tools:


1. 2 of Harbor Freight's 20 ton bottle jacks:
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-air-over-hydraulic-jack-95553.html


2. 2 of Amazon's 22-ton jack stands:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-1780-Jac...on+jack+stand&qid=1556223974&s=gateway&sr=8-3


3. 2 sets of 2 (total of 4) wheel chocks:
https://www.uscargocontrol.com/2-Rubber-Wheel-Chocks-with-Wide-Carry-Handle-8x6x8


3. 4x4 cribbing - I'll buy the day of (which may be as early as this Saturday) on an as-needed basis - I'm hoping the jack stands will do all I need, but I probably will get cribbing to set my jacks and wheels on.



4. 6-gallon pancake compressor - max pressure of 165 psi (however, only going for 120).


Third, I'm going to try to do the jacking without airing up the pneumatic system first. I'm concerned that using the pancake compressor for such a job will kill it. I don't have access to a more "robust" compressor at the moment. I'm also concerned that the humidity will get into my air lines if my air dryer doesn't work (as the engine won't be running and the electrical system will be off). However, my air valve in the engine compartment goes to the muffler tank, which is the first tank air goes to coming from the engine compressor, so if the air dryer does work then I'm "home free" on that front.


----------


Order of operations:
1. Chock front wheels.
2. Position bottle jacks under the "hoisting points".
3. If I can't get them there, then I'll try the "jacking points".

4. If that isn't successful, then I'm going to have to air up the bus and try 2 and 3 again.
5. If I'm still not successful, then I'm going to ... eh, come up with another way to jack....
6. Once the bus is in the air, I'm going to try to get it high enough to get the jack stands under it. I'll also put cribbing under the wheels to try and stabilize.
7. If I can't get under at that point, then I'll air down the bottle jacks, crib them, and lift again. Either move the jack stands up a hole or two or crib them, along with cribbing the wheels. Rinse & repeat until I can get under - safely.

I eventually want a minimum of three points of contact (and preferably 4) on both sides: 1. chocked front wheels; 2. jack stand, 3. bottle jack, and 4. cribbed back wheel(s). (I don't think the cribbed back wheels are absolutely necessary if I have the jacks in the right place, but it certainly will give me more peace-of-mind in crawling under 30k+ lbs. of steel and machinery....


Thoughts???

don't trust the jacks - make sure the bus is at least on the jack stands AND the jacks - cribbing as well to be safe

 

[MarkyDee]

With the bus not up on its air springs, the body is 8" above the ground. The bottle jacks are 10.25" tall. The jack stands are 12" tall.


So unless I can find a "cavity" where I can get the jacks under and set back upright, it seems I'm going to have to pressurize the system.

don't trust the jacks - make sure the bus is at least on the jack stands AND the jacks - cribbing as well to be safe

Will do!


My plan was to have the bus settle on the jack stands as well as under-wheel cribbing once I have it at a satisfactory height. I'll keep the bottle jacks under as well, but I would like to keep the weight off of them if possible. However, I'll keep the "plunger" up by the lift points for a little bit more margin of safety (very, very little)....

 

[MarkyDee]

Ok, I decided to try pressurizing the pneumatic system with my little pancake compressor. But this happened:

The air connectors weren't the same.


I didn't know that there are three different types - ARO, Industrial, and Automotive. My air hose and compressor are Industrial. The connector on the bus is ARO.


Ok, quick search on Amazon and I find this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MB8YNFS


So I connect it all up:

AND IT WORKS!!!



My little pancake compressor pressurized the pneumatic system to 100psi in about 20 minutes! I was expecting to basically burn my little compressor out....


Oh, and my bus gained about 3"-4" in height being up on its springs. I haven't tried setting the jacks underneath yet. That'll come later.


One thing surprised me - my air-powered door shut on me when my front accessory tank filled. I can't get it open until the pneumatic system leaks away.


And my air dryer sneezed all over me. I was down looking under the bus and "psssssss....". I'm glad it was directed downwards or I might have lost an eye....

 

[Brad_SwiftFur]

One thing surprised me - my air-powered door shut on me when my front accessory tank filled. I can't get it open until the pneumatic system leaks away.


And my air dryer sneezed all over me. I was down looking under the bus and "psssssss....". I'm glad it was directed downwards or I might have lost an eye....

Until the air door manages to retain the air pressure somehow ....


As for the air dryer, lesson learned, thankfully with no lasting harm done. Everyone else should learn from this.

 

[MarkyDee]

As for the air dryer, lesson learned, thankfully with no lasting harm done. Everyone else should learn from this.

Yes - it was quite a shock when it blew. Left quite a divot in the gravel. I wondered if the air dryer was completely mechanical, but even still I thought it needed electricity to work. Well, I was wrong.

 

[Native-SKO]

Could you not hook up your air hose and open the petcock WITHOUT having the compressor connected? That should drain the air pressure.

 

[MarkyDee]

Could you not hook up your air hose and open the petcock WITHOUT having the compressor connected? That should drain the air pressure.

I think the petcock has been open ever since I got the bus. Usually valves are closed when their handles are perpendicular and open when the handles are parallel to the valve body. Well, I found out that this one is opposite. When I twisted it to parallel, my little pancake compressor built pressure. When it was perpendicular, it lost pressure down to the pressure the gauges on my dashboard were reading (praise God for analog gauges!). At one point when I still only had about 20psi in the system and the handle was perpendicular I had removed the airhose and felt air exiting. When I twisted it to parallel the air stopped.



Also, I've had sluggish pneumatic response ever since I got the bus - not outside of specs, mind you, but certainly approaching the limits. I resigned myself to having to search the bus to find the leak or leaks. Well, when I closed the petcock and shut off my compressor, I didn't hear ANY air leaks! I think this has been the leak I've been looking for!

 

[Native-SKO]

Also, I've had sluggish pneumatic response ever since I got the bus - not outside of specs, mind you, but certainly approaching the limits. I resigned myself to having to search the bus to find the leak or leaks. Well, when I closed the petcock and shut off my compressor, I didn't hear ANY air leaks! I think this has been the leak I've been looking for!

One would think that you did find the "leak". I find it amazing that your compressor built any pressure at all.


Congratulations!

 

[JDOnTheGo]

Good stuff Marky! Glad it worked as hoped. It sounds like your pneumatic door does not have an external switch?? Mine has a push button/pad thing for opening and closing from the outside. It requires air pressure and the master electrical switch open. As an aside, I also have a pneumatic valve at the dash to remove pressure to the door. I normally close this (remove air pressure from the door) for parked/camping/living mode and swing the door by hand (using the manual latch and key lock to secure it). When traveling/driving, I use the pneumatic feature.

 

[MarkyDee]

Good stuff Marky! Glad it worked as hoped. It sounds like your pneumatic door does not have an external switch?? Mine has a push button/pad thing for opening and closing from the outside. It requires air pressure and the master electrical switch open. As an aside, I also have a pneumatic valve at the dash to remove pressure to the door. I normally close this (remove air pressure from the door) for parked/camping/living mode and swing the door by hand (using the manual latch and key lock to secure it). When traveling/driving, I use the pneumatic feature.

It does, but I have the batteries out of the bus right now because of the starter, so no electrical power for the PLC to do its thing with the doors. Plus the valves I have to remove pressure from the doors I can't turn yet. They've been in their same position for 20 years now and I haven't taken a pipe wrench to 'em yet - I'm actually a little scared to....

 

[MarkyDee]

Oh, man, what was I thinking when I bought a BUS?!?


Even on its bags, the bus is still an inch too short. I can't get my air jack under either the hoist or jack points.



So, I've tried to jack at the back end of the bus under some members that look pretty stout. I jacked the back end up about 3", but even still that doesn't quite give the height I need at the jack point. I'm afraid to go any higher because I don't want it to fail and cause damage.


What the H-E-DOUBLE-TOOTHPICK was I thinking when I bought this thing?

 

[o1marc]

Haven't gone back and read your whole issue, Does the bus run? If so drive it up on blocks to get the needed clearance.

 

[MarkyDee]

Haven't gone back and read your whole issue, Does the bus run? If so drive it up on blocks to get the needed clearance.

Yea, sounds easy, except its not.


Starter solenoid is welded closed. As soon as I close the master breaker, the starter spins. Even if I press the "start" button, the starter will not engage the flywheel because its already spinning. So, I can't actually start the engine.



I can't get to the starter solenoid from the side or the top of the engine (starter sits on the curb-side of the bus), so I can only try to come from underneath. However, the bus barely sits a foot off the ground (and that's on its bags - otherwise its a scant 8"...). So, I have to jack to get underneath it.



I can try to tow the bus, but that's going to be some shiny, shiny coin....

 

[o1marc]

Yea, sounds easy, except its not.


Starter solenoid is welded closed. As soon as I close the master breaker, the starter spins. Even if I press the "start" button, the starter will not engage the flywheel because its already spinning. So, I can't actually start the engine.



I can't get to the starter solenoid from the side or the top of the engine (starter sits on the curb-side of the bus), so I can only try to come from underneath. However, the bus barely sits a foot off the ground (and that's on its bags - otherwise its a scant 8"...). So, I have to jack to get underneath it.



I can try to tow the bus, but that's going to be some shiny, shiny coin....

Maybe you can get a break on the tow price if all they do is pull you up onto blocks The tow guy only charged me $25 to come pull me out of the drive, and then had to hook up second time to pull me forward in front yard muck

 

[Native-SKO]

Hey Mark,


I can not remember ... is the bus parked on gravel or dirt by any chance? If so, you could dig out just under the jack point. I am assuming you are on concrete or asphalt. Of course, in that case digging is not as simple.

 

[MarkyDee]

Hey Mark,

I can not remember ... is the bus parked on gravel or dirt by any chance? If so, you could dig out just under the jack point. I am assuming you are on concrete or asphalt. Of course, in that case digging is not as simple.

Gravel. I have hardpan underneath a single or dual layer of gravel. Plus the jack points are just about arms-length under the bus. A shovel won't do it, but maybe some sort of hoe can - at least until I hit the hardpan.

 

[MarkyDee]

Maybe you can get a break on the tow price if all they do is pull you up onto blocks The tow guy only charged me $25 to come pull me out of the drive, and then had to hook up second time to pull me forward in front yard muck

I'm sorry, but I just don't see getting a "break" on a 45', 33k lbs. coach bus. The call-out charge for the size wrecker needed to move such a beast would probably take a good portion of my savings.

 

[MarkyDee]

Thank you, guys, for suggesting things. I dismissed the dig-out because of the hardpan, but maybe if I just get 1/2", that's 1/2" I don't need to jack from the back (less height; less pressure on the cross-members; less chance of an expensive structural failure).



I'm just "down" right now 'cause a number of things in my life right now are headed south. I'm trying to keep my emotions in-check so I don't do something stupid like I am want to do when I get like this. Also, jacking in the wrong place might cause me even more grief than I have right now, so I'm really trying to be conservative on this.

 

[o1marc]

Thank you, guys, for suggesting things. I dismissed the dig-out because of the hardpan, but maybe if I just get 1/2", that's 1/2" I don't need to jack from the back (less height; less pressure on the cross-members; less chance of an expensive structural failure).



I'm just "down" right now 'cause a number of things in my life right now are headed south. I'm trying to keep my emotions in-check so I don't do something stupid like I am want to do when I get like this. Also, jacking in the wrong place might cause me even more grief than I have right now, so I'm really trying to be conservative on this.

I hear ya brother, some times it's just better to back away for awhile and regroup. That's why it's taking so long on my build. I only want to do this one right, so the next one I know what I'm doing. There's a solution, it just hasn't come to you yet.