Bookmobile / Turfmobile

[bansil]

Make sure you have a co detector, you are moving the exhaust end right?...just thinking of your safety :mrgreen:

 

[turf]

i've got a CO detector on the way, please elaborate on "moving the exhaust" the instructions were less than clear.

*edit
i found and read the webasto (english) installation guidelines and i think i did ok.....

its 12*F outside right now and the heater is keeping the back half of the bus i nice toasty 20*C what ever that is. i might try to add some more heat forward...

i took the CO detector out of the house and tried it out in the bus..... ran the heat for an hour and not a peep from the CO detector. thanks for suggesting checking the heater is a power vented exhaust, pipe needs to point down for condensation. i dont know enough about venting and CO though..... under the bus seems a bit sketch, but that is what all the install instructions show.

the installation isnt final..... just working right now.... i was trying to beat the weather coming in, so the exhaust has another clamp to snug it down, and the is an intake tube, to help keep that air clean. im going to put a peice of rubber under the fuel pump too, it clicks pretty loud against the frame rail.

 

[bansil]

It looks like it exits right under the floor, and would collect and then leak inside, atleast the picture makes me wonder if it would be an issue

 

[somewhereinusa]

Installation looks good. You do need to get the outlet outside of the skirting. Probably a couple of inches should be enough. As long as you have a general downward slope from heater to outlet the condensation can get out. No upward slopes. I had a Webasto in a pickup that I practically lived in when I was doing expedited freight. I loved it. Biggest problem was space was too small and heater didn't run long enough each cycle.

 

[wmkbailey]

I noticed with my Webasto if the wind was blowing back to the bus I would get a faint smell of the exhaust. I plan to use a Gen-Turi. I do have a CO/smoke detector in the bus.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44461-G...keywords=gen-turi+rv+generator+exhaust+system

 

[turf]

after a short break for winter......

im back at it again

here is a nightstand i'm working on to cover the heater and ductwork.

and since i have no plan.... constant redesign necessary since my step and heater vent appear to be the same spot.

 

[Tango-SKO]

Nice thing about building your own bus...plenty of opportunities for "Do Overs". I think we've all been there.

 

[roach711]

Nice thing about building your own bus...plenty of opportunities for "Do Overs". I think we've all been there.

Amen to that!

 

[turf]

i spent an hour contemplating fancy joinery and quality craftsmanship......

and then i just took easy way....figured out got better things to do today

 

[Diesel Dan]

Angle brackets are a beautiful thing!

 

[Tango-SKO]

All that's needed now is a cat to lounge right in front of the heater duct.

 

[turf]

in the garage, the cats had an affinity for the nitestand, we will see if they are cut out for bus life....

i finished the finish on the steps.....

and then........ i started back on the drain today. time to connect the toilet/shower to the tank! today, i was just cutting and fitting pieces until i run out of parts.
(also pictured ......the fuel pump to the diesel heater)

the toilet is straight over the tank, the shower drain is 12" away..... with the hepvo valve, the 2 won't connect in a straight line between the 2 stubs. so its attached to the pipe that will cross the vehicle for the kitchen sink drain.

and the view from the other side of the bus
the near side pipe is just hanging, it will be fastened up to the frame rail. the drain side has a 2x4 under the frame rail to get the drop across the bus.

the 2 big tubes are the tail pipe (nearest to drain) and the driveshaft.

 

[turf]

my closet is coming together today

 

[turf]

progress on the bathroom today


the floor of the shower is sloped towards the drain. installing the toilet flush to the floor would have put the toilet at a pretty funny angle for the appliance to work right.

i got some floor patch epoxy and filled the gap between the bus floor and bottom of the shower pan for support of the toilet, and then used some more to try to make a level pad to mount the toilet on.

the epoxy is water proof and should bond to all the surfaces - wood and metal floor, fiberglass tub, and the abs flange.

a few hours into the cure, i used a grinder to smooth the finish.

and here is the toilet set in place.

you'd think i was trying to camp this weekend

 

[turf]

i've been thinking about the shower for like......3 years now.

in my prior camping experience, a shower has been a rare occurrence. so i dont think there will be a lot of exposure to moisture. i was resigned to using the frp about 3/4 the height of the walls to retain the wood look.

however, no guts, no glory.... right?


so.... my plan today is to tile the bath walls, most of the way up, leaving the top foot or so the wood.

there will be a 4th wall and a door on the bath, but i think only 3 walls will get tile. and use a shower curtain to protect the wooden wall and door.

any feedback appreciated

 

[turf]

very cool product! sorry i wasnt aware of that.

i was very lucky with my bus. the original cabinet work was all done with nice cabinet plywood. im not sure what it is but the closest i've come to match it with is birch.

all the wall panels are original to the bus, just flipped over so that i could start with a clean side, unfinished side. i have and will recycled as much as possible from the original wood work.

the pieces in the bathroom were a bit smaller as they used to be over the wheel well. instead of a single panel, there is an upper and lower panel. im hoping my backer board snugs the wall up and covers my previous mistakes.

so far, i'm happy with the result of the epoxy tub fix. i wasnt sure what kind of results i was going to get. if i were to do it again, i would use a similar but self leveling product.

 

[turf]

its just fun to say "schluter kerdi"

cool stuff and i was almost sold...until i saw the price on that stuff

i might be back at the frp option again.....

so still contemplating the inside of the shower.


i was working on my refrigerator cabinet over the weekend and ordered some cabinets for the kitchen.


fridge in the foreground, cabinet in the back

 

[nat_ster]

Yes tile will always be 5 times the cost of simple FRP.

Nat

 

[turf]

and the schulter kerdi doubles that number

on a happy note......

i got my door slider hardware today and it exceeds my expectations. the self closing mechanism is strong....enough so to work out of level (in the shop).... i'm hopeful it will work well when it gets installed in the bus.

slider hardware: hafele slido with demo video

 

[turf]

i believe that... same cost as starting from scratch. however, like you pointed out earlier, i've built the bath wrong. to get a flat wall for schulter system i will still need to finish the walls as planned with some other backerboard. then i could install the schulter system, and then my tile. or just backer board and tile... or backer board and frp.

the lip of the shower pan prevents me from having a flat wall at this point. some type of material will have to shim the wall flush to the shower pan.