Boxtruck Build: 2001 International 4700 w 24ft box

[GoBigAlreadyHome]

Hey everyone! Just picked up a 2001 International 4700 with a 24' box.
Roll up door, T444E engine, only 225k miles.

I'm starting first with making the box waterproof. The 5/4 hardwood floor closest to the rollup door was a bit rotted out, but dry. I went ahead and just cut the first six inches of the floor out. I coated the cut surface with polyurethane and I've replaced the cut out boards with a length of 5/4 treated lumber. It's not hardwood, but I did coat it in polyurethane as well.

The first four feet of the build will be the garage/front porch area, and I'll fill in any gaps with caulk or some sort of filler. I'll then use bedliner for this floor area.

I won a bunch of materials at a local auction, including 36 pieces of 2x3. I'm going to use those as my studs.

First I'll pull all of the plywood and the two long e-track rails off of the walls. I'll be reusing them in the future and just replacing any sections that look too rough.

After that I'll poly the rest of the floor and caulk any gaps and edges between the floor and the walls.

I think I need to go ahead and ensure there are no holes in the roof or the walls, so I did have a question on that...
Is everyone just painting the entire interior and/or exterior of their roofs with something? Or just fixing any spots/holes and then doing insulation like closed cell?

Here are some Planner5D images of what I envision. Measurements are not perfect as that tends to change a lot through a project like this.

I'll be living in it full time. Washer/Dryer combo unit, narrow dishwasher, etc. I'll figure out the power, but thoughts go towards using a second alternator or my generator, which is a Westinghouse 5300 dual fuel (LPG and gas).
I'll do solar later on, but I don't mind using fuel for power at the moment.

I'm not into the vanlife gym-membership-for-shower and laundromat longterm, hence the creature comforts.

 

[Slapdash]

Lookin' good. Welcome to the asylum!

 

[Rucker]

Great start. If you haven't already put some thought into where the graywater/blackwater tanks will be, now's the time!

Looking forward to pictures and seeing how this takes shape.

 

[GoBigAlreadyHome]

Thanks y'all! The general answer to where the tanks will be is "somewhere along the left or right underside of the box. Not that I'll become high-centered like an offroad vehicle, but my thoughts are that if I mount more towards the middle than the rear axle, risk of damaging the tanks is a bit higher.

Obviously with a huge box truck, there won't be much in the way of offroad, but unpaved roads would be nice.


Also...it's leaf springs front and rear. The bounciness along segmented sections of highway/road is vicious.

I'll do a search on this, but if there's a way to relieve it a bit that'd be incredible.

 

[GoBigAlreadyHome]

Some photos for y'all! I got her for $2800 on auction from Ritchie Bros/TruckPlanet. After buyer's premium, two new batteries, flight, and the fuel to get her back to Colorado she was about $4500.

**** of a deal for a fleet-maintained Frito Lay truck with only 225k on the 7.3L block.

 

[GoBigAlreadyHome]

Here are a couple of progress photos. I cut out the first six inches of the floor (and a bit more on the passenger side). I polyurethaned the exposed cuts as well as below and above them a bit.

Since the original floor is supported by the chassis and frame and this cut has now made it so the floor is no longer supported, just before the doorframe, I am adding supports to the chassis rails. It's exactly 3" needed for the support so I have cut a few pieces of treated 2x4, polyurethaned them, stacked the pieces on the tail and the new 5/4 board is going on top. (These support spots are highlighted in yellow in the photos)

Since expansion and gaps are a thing, I'm filling gaps with caulking.

Again, that first four feet will be garage and I'll use bed liner for it later.

In the photos you can see where I've taken the plywood down.
Next will be the E-track.

Then clear everything out, caulk between the box and floor along the edges, then polyurethane the floors.

I'm using butyl tape and caulk for any seams and rivet holes in the walls or ceilings. At some point I'll also address the roof seams too.

Then my 2x3 studs go up on each of the current spines.

 

[GoBigAlreadyHome]

Quick change up of plans. With the quantity of rivets, I kept stressing about leaks and kept searching for information on spray foam trapping moisture, if the spray foam will actually plug rivet holes, etc etc.

I finally called some spray foam companies. They said spray it and forget it, I'll be fine. I'm making this build in such a way that repairs won't be the worst thing under the sun, so I'm going to try and shed some anxiety and just push through.

Finished two coats of polyurethane on the floor. It's shinier.

Finished the floor repairs by the roll-up door.

The 2x3s are a bit short to use as studs. As I got all 36 on them on auction for $45, I'll find a use for them elsewhere or resell them.

I picked up a 63 2x4s. I had no idea they came in lengths of 104 5/8", as I thought they only had 8', 10', etc. I'll need to trim a teeny bit off of the top of each one, but getting that size saved a bit of cash.

Also picked up a bunch of Wood to Metal Self Drilling flathead screws.

Today's goal:
Remove e-track and set aside for reuse.
Install the studs
Stretch goals:
Headers
Joists
Select where side exterior door will go.
Tape out on floor where bed, shower, toilet stall, etc will go.

 

[GoBigAlreadyHome]

 

[FawnaFox]

First time Ive seen a box truck conversion.. it's an idea I can get behind.

 

[#1FordFan]

I went the box truck to RV route some years ago. I could not take the beating from the rear leafs (23K rated) so I converted it to an air ride axle from a freightliner semi.
My fave camp spot is in Ironton CO (ghost town at 10K ft)

 

[nailtechie]

Hey everyone! Just picked up a 2001 International 4700 with a 24' box.
Roll up door, T444E engine, only 225k miles.

I'm starting first with making the box waterproof. The 5/4 hardwood floor closest to the rollup door was a bit rotted out, but dry. I went ahead and just cut the first six inches of the floor out. I coated the cut surface with polyurethane and I've replaced the cut out boards with a length of 5/4 treated lumber. It's not hardwood, but I did coat it in polyurethane as well.

The first four feet of the build will be the garage/front porch area, and I'll fill in any gaps with caulk or some sort of filler. I'll then use bedliner for this floor area.

I won a bunch of materials at a local auction, including 36 pieces of 2x3. I'm going to use those as my studs.

First I'll pull all of the plywood and the two long e-track rails off of the walls. I'll be reusing them in the future and just replacing any sections that look too rough.

After that I'll poly the rest of the floor and caulk any gaps and edges between the floor and the walls.

I think I need to go ahead and ensure there are no holes in the roof or the walls, so I did have a question on that...
Is everyone just painting the entire interior and/or exterior of their roofs with something? Or just fixing any spots/holes and then doing insulation like closed cell?

Here are some Planner5D images of what I envision. Measurements are not perfect as that tends to change a lot through a project like this.

I'll be living in it full time. Washer/Dryer combo unit, narrow dishwasher, etc. I'll figure out the power, but thoughts go towards using a second alternator or my generator, which is a Westinghouse 5300 dual fuel (LPG and gas).
I'll do solar later on, but I don't mind using fuel for power at the moment.

I'm not into the vanlife gym-membership-for-shower and laundromat longterm, hence the creature comforts.View attachment 1109025

View attachment 1111092

 

[nailtechie]

Oh my! I am following you. This is what I want to do. I am so excited to follow your build. I appreciate your info on how you found your truck. Thanks for putting this online. Sandy