Brakes stuck at one wheel

[Samarath]

Excuse me if I missed it in a previous post, what bus do you have?

Lost another long post to the ether.

2007 ic ce 200 with the vt365 and an allison. 72 capacity 29760~ gvwr

The top piston of the rear driver caliper seems to be stuck. The pad is worn more at the top and is now uneven.

Kills me that I lost my reply...was a long heartfelt post. This is a tribute. We accomplished our mission, and remission is the word. Our last appointment in Boston is August 7, and then we can head back home to Michigan. I have learned so much that it is incomprehensible for me to recommend a bus to anyone that hasnt done their homework. Either have a cush bank account or learn all of the specialities associated with the complete maintenace and repair of it. We know we did it wrong, and we couldnt hace gotten this far without your help, so thank you. I dont have a deadline for getting gome, so I am thinking we will stay off the highways and take it super slow the whole way home.

If there is any more info you need, please let me know. I am still waiting for the torque multiplier to arrive at home depot.

 

[mmoore6856]

Yes the torque for her wheel lug nuts is 450 to 500 ft.lbs.

 

[Hooker-SKO]

One thing I always try first in this situation is to the back off the bleeder. Sometimes the rubber lining of the brake hose deteriorates. You didn't realize you pushed on the brake pedal at some point and with the bad brake hose it can work like a 1 way valve. It'll allow the fluid to push the piston closed, but not allow it to back off. By backing off the bleeder you relieve that pressure to free that rotor. If that works, then you need to replace the brake hose to the caliper and the problem is fixed.

 

[Tin Roadtube Vagrant]

https://www.truckinginfo.com/150688/wheel-ends-torque-your-nuts

Maybe this is applicable to something else, but I am still reading. The lugs are 33mm with that flange lock thing behind them. I am a little ignorant, but I will wait to start the job until I am certain. I had to hitch a ride to get the caliper and pads, and so I couldnt have carried a rotor, much less the hardware for both wheels.

I ordered a torque multiplier from home depot. It should be there within a week or so, so I guess I have some time to do some more reading. I am replacing a caliper, and so there will be air in the system unless i am mistaken somehow. I have a pressure bleeder to put 30psi on the system during that procedure as well as software to release the pressure in the brake circuits.

I will call the dealership and see if they xan give me any specifics on this as well ..

Heres a pic in case someone knows it all!

I was going to clean up the rail that the pads slide on with a scotchbrite pad, grease the pins, slap it together, put the wheels back on the best I can, and then crawl next door and see if they xan torque the lugs to spec. My torque wrench only goes to 250#.

No need to search or guess dude, the torque is always written on the nut. look closely at the outer rim of the nut, probably says (450-500 ftlbs). I've seen some from Europe that don't have a torque etched in, but as a rule it's there.

That ring on the nut isn't a "flange lock", it's a slipper ring. Open the crack and drip one drop of 30 weight oil into the slip zone between nut and ring. It's the service procedure to reduce rolling friction. The peeps in the tire industry don't want you to use anti-seize anywhere on these. I sometimes still do with no repercussions.

Enjoy!,

Vagrant

 

[Samarath]

No need to search or guess dude, the torque is always written on the nut. look closely at the outer rim of the nut, probably says (450-500 ftlbs). I've seen some from Europe that don't have a torque etched in, but as a rule it's there.

That ring on the nut isn't a "flange lock", it's a slipper ring. Open the crack and drip one drop of 30 weight oil into the slip zone between nut and ring. It's the service procedure to reduce rolling friction. The peeps in the tire industry don't want you to use anti-seize anywhere on these. I sometimes still do with no repercussions.

Enjoy!,

Vagrant

Thanks so much!

I got a torque multiplier from home depot and it worked flawlessly to get the lugs off. Here is a dumb question. How do you get the bottom pin out of the...um, the thing that the caliper is pinned to. The top pin was no problem, but the bottom pin hit the leaf spring. I guess maybe youre not intended to replace a caliper without a complete wheel end service(rotors, bearings etc)? I messed the whole thing up. The bolt into the bottom pin was stuck and since I had new hardware, I just cut through it with a sawsall. The caliper comes with one pin that is solid straight, and one pin with a silicone-ish collar towards the end. The one with the collar was at the top, and the straight pin was at the bottom. I couldbt get the bottom pin in past the leaf spring, but to get down the road, I used the old top collared pin in the bottom. Oh, some more screw up. I was trying to loosen the brake line from the caliper and it twisted the metal elbow that transitions into a rubber line. I didnt want to twist it back, so I disconnected the brake line mount at the caliper and tightened it back up allowing the whole line to turn instead of twisting the metal.

You guys have advice for this situation? I will call the dealer and see what they say, but I am still about 40mi from there. Ive been tooling baxk and forth from walmart to a nearby park days and nights because the temp at that wheel climbs quickly. It stays under 200f if I dont go more than a mile.

 

[Tin Roadtube Vagrant]

Thanks so much!

I got a torque multiplier from home depot and it worked flawlessly to get the lugs off. Here is a dumb question. How do you get the bottom pin out of the...um, the thing that the caliper is pinned to. The top pin was no problem, but the bottom pin hit the leaf spring. I guess maybe youre not intended to replace a caliper without a complete wheel end service(rotors, bearings etc)? I messed the whole thing up. The bolt into the bottom pin was stuck and since I had new hardware, I just cut through it with a sawsall. The caliper comes with one pin that is solid straight, and one pin with a silicone-ish collar towards the end. The one with the collar was at the top, and the straight pin was at the bottom. I couldbt get the bottom pin in past the leaf spring, but to get down the road, I used the old top collared pin in the bottom. Oh, some more screw up. I was trying to loosen the brake line from the caliper and it twisted the metal elbow that transitions into a rubber line. I didnt want to twist it back, so I disconnected the brake line mount at the caliper and tightened it back up allowing the whole line to turn instead of twisting the metal.

You guys have advice for this situation? I will call the dealer and see what they say, but I am still about 40mi from there. Ive been tooling baxk and forth from walmart to a nearby park days and nights because the temp at that wheel climbs quickly. It stays under 200f if I dont go more than a mile.

Lol, I’m struggling to picture that caliper debacle you’re describing. Sounds like you’re going to be needing a brake line. I'm'na punt back to the guy with his boots on the ground.

I wanna add your one hearty S.O.B. to take this on at a random remote location. Salute.

~Vagrant

 

[Samarath]

Here are some pics. The first pics are where the brake hose connects to the brake line going to the hcu. I have no clue gow thats gonna go. The brake line coning out of the caliper should be pointed up and mounted at the edge of the caliper. You can see the bolt for the mount.

 

[Tin Roadtube Vagrant]

@ this point I’d be eliminating that caliper entirely to get out of this situation. Line plugs exist.

I walked over to the light equipment group’s shop and pulled their brake hardware drawer. The have an inverted coupler that receives a brake line on one side and had 1/4 male pipe (to be capped) on the opposite. Remove or decompress the caliper, plug the line, get to a decent location.

If I could figure out how to load a picture onto this site I'd be proud of myself. Seems really backwoods.

 

[Samarath]

@ this point I’d be eliminating that caliper entirely to get out of this situation.

I walked over to the light equipment group’s shop and pulled their brake hardware drawer. The have an inverted coupler that receives a brake line on one side and had 1/4 male pipe on the opposite. Remove or decompress the caliper, plug the line, get to a decent location.

If I could figure out how to load a picture onto this site I'd be proud of myself. Seems really backwoods.

When you are replying, look for the paper clip up top. There you can choose what to upload. When it is done, click "close this window" and then submit your reply.

Thank you so much for that idea. Maybe I can plug the line long enough to get to the dealership anyway. I would have never thought of that.

 

[Samarath]

The guy at international sent me this. I've got to get the on command thing I think. I would love to have literature to confirm I am doing things properly...lol

This is the rear brake line diagram for the 07 ic ce 200

 

[Samarath]

One thing I always try first in this situation is to the back off the bleeder. Sometimes the rubber lining of the brake hose deteriorates. You didn't realize you pushed on the brake pedal at some point and with the bad brake hose it can work like a 1 way valve. It'll allow the fluid to push the piston closed, but not allow it to back off. By backing off the bleeder you relieve that pressure to free that rotor. If that works, then you need to replace the brake hose to the caliper and the problem is fixed.

I cant get the line disconnected from the caliper without breaking it. I guess I could have rotated the caliper to unscrew it when I had the wheels off, but I didnt think about that at the time. I ordered a brake hose from oreilly that crossref the dealer part number. It should be at the store Monday so it says...

Anyway, I'll camp out in the area until I get the new hose and hope like **** I can disconnect the old one from the tubing without screwing anything up. Thanks for your wisdom.

 

[Tin Roadtube Vagrant]

The guy at international sent me this. I've got to get the on command thing I think. I would love to have literature to confirm I am doing things properly...lol

This is the rear brake line diagram for the 07 ic ce 200

Sounds like it’s getting exponentially more expensive if you’re putting modules in. Remember that most brake modules are built for redundancy. So they fail positive. They become a non participant when dying. ABS brakes become lockable brakes. Not so bad really.

Bedtime story from Uncle Vagrant….

Had my own awesome Skoolie S%#t show last night. Not as bad as your real-time issues, but no fun.

Was closing her down after doing some interior work. Moths all over, flying for the dining area lights. When I went to drop the roof hatch a kamikaze moth torpedoed me I the ear. I guess moths don’t have a reverse gear. It crawled up against my ear drum and started fluttering as fast and hard as it could.

I swear to God I’ve never in my years experienced a more horrific 30 minutes. It wouldn’t die. It wouldn’t come out. It wouldn’t stop slamming my drum with its wings. I gave myself whiplash from banging my head and a sprained ankle from rolling down my Skoolie stairwell. My wife poured Olive Oil down my ear to kill it, water wouldn’t work.

My hearing went blank. It crammed itself that tight to my drum. Had to go to the clinic this morning to have it extracted. The RN said “all I can see is ear wax”. She grabbed a hook to pull the “ear wax” out and it was a chunk of Mr.moth’s ass, no ear wax, it was all corpse. She got out the water blaster and went to work on it. Hearing returned. Damn it.

 

[Samarath]

Sounds like it’s getting exponentially more expensive if you’re putting modules in. Remember that most brake modules are built for redundancy. So they fail positive. They become a non participant when dying. ABS brakes become lockable brakes. Not so bad really.

Bedtime story from Uncle Vagrant….

Had my own awesome Skoolie S%#t show last night. Not as bad as your real-time issues, but no fun.

Was closing her down after doing some interior work. Moths all over, flying for the dining area lights. When I went to drop the roof hatch a kamikaze moth torpedoed me I the ear. I guess moths don’t have a reverse gear. It crawled up against my ear drum and started fluttering as fast and hard as it could.

I swear to God I’ve never in my years experienced a more horrific 30 minutes. It wouldn’t die. It wouldn’t come out. It wouldn’t stop slamming my drum with its wings. I gave myself whiplash from banging my head and a sprained ankle from rolling down my Skoolie stairwell. My wife poured Olive Oil down my ear to kill it, water wouldn’t work.

My hearing went blank. It crammed itself that tight to my drum. Had to go to the clinic this morning to have it extracted. The RN said “all I can see is ear wax”. She grabbed a hook to pull the “ear wax” out and it was a chunk of Mr.moth’s ass, no ear wax, it was all corpse. She got out the water blaster and went to work on it. Hearing returned. Damn it.

Holy cow! I really hate to say it, but I would almost rather deal with a bunch of rusty brake lines...lol

The biggest bug issue here in New Hampshire is mosquitos. They're relentless! Thankfully it has been cool the last couple of nights.

I am hoping to not have to replace anything too major, but where my rear brake hose connects to the metal brake line (to HCU), that connection seems equally corrodeded/gunked/rusted. I hit it with PB Blaster several times yesterday. Someone said something about Howe's penetrating oil or some such. They said the stuff is great, but I cant find it. I wonder if I will have to cut the metal tubing and put a new fitting. Then I wonder if I will end up running new brake line tubing because I messed it up trying to cut it and put on a new fitting...lol

The cascade effect terrifies me. I am going to get out of walmart's lot today. Oreillys down the street had a brake hose that matched my part number for 20$ v 137$ for the dealer part. I am sure you get what you pay for, but oreilly is a half mile down the road, and the dealer is in Manchester(40-45 minutes). Oreilly's said it would be there Monday. Impressive considering that I ordered it Saturday evening. We're gonna figure this out though!

I can't believe that a moth nearly killed you! Thanks as always for your input.

 

[Tin Roadtube Vagrant]

Holy cow! I really hate to say it, but I would almost rather deal with a bunch of rusty brake lines...lol

The biggest bug issue here in New Hampshire is mosquitos. They're relentless! Thankfully it has been cool the last couple of nights.

I am hoping to not have to replace anything too major, but where my rear brake hose connects to the metal brake line (to HCU), that connection seems equally corrodeded/gunked/rusted. I hit it with PB Blaster several times yesterday. Someone said something about Howe's penetrating oil or some such. They said the stuff is great, but I cant find it. I wonder if I will have to cut the metal tubing and put a new fitting. Then I wonder if I will end up running new brake line tubing because I messed it up trying to cut it and put on a new fitting...lol

The cascade effect terrifies me. I am going to get out of walmart's lot today. Oreillys down the street had a brake hose that matched my part number for 20$ v 137$ for the dealer part. I am sure you get what you pay for, but oreilly is a half mile down the road, and the dealer is in Manchester(40-45 minutes). Oreilly's said it would be there Monday. Impressive considering that I ordered it Saturday evening. We're gonna figure this out though!

I can't believe that a moth nearly killed you! Thanks as always for your input.

Yes, cascade effect! Brake line and/or exhaust, take your pick. Start on one end of the vehicle with the smallest of issues and work your way back to point of origin one tear-off/twist-off at a time. I put on latex gloves and smear #2 grease on all steel portions of my brake lines. Terrible mess, but always trying to keep'er workable, no guarantees.

lol, I have the black light death trap set up next to my Skoolie. Heard it zapping moths all night long. Feeling safe to go outside again.

GOOD LUCK!!

 

[Samarath]

Grateful

Just closing this thread out with a conclusion.

It looks like you should service the wheel end (bearings, rotors, etc) if you intend to change the calipers. Right or wrong, I used the old top pins for the bottom of the new calipers. I ended up not being able to break the bottom pin's bolts loose and so cut them both with a sawzall. I replaced both rear calipers and brake hoses in this fashion and bled the brakes with a hand pump pressure bleeder. The bus rolls and stops as demanded.

I now have some experience removing wheels and have had my hands on my old rusty brake lines. Life experience and all.

Thanks so much to you all.

Chris
verifysuccess@gmail.com

 

[BarnYardCamp]

good that you got it fixed. Keep an eye on the brake fluid level, maybe look under the bus a few times in the next couple weeks to make sure you don't have any fluid leaks.

 

[Hooker-SKO]

Good Job !!! I bet you feel a lot safer now. Might even get some better mpg now. Who knows how long that brake might have been dragging a bit.

And now some new experience under your belt is always a good thing.