Buying bus Tomorrow!! Roof raise (I've searched)

I know a lot of people here don't approve of this method, but my dad and I raised the roof of my Thomas bus by 24" at the windows. He welded in 1x2 tubes in the hat channels with 1" angle iron on either side for the sheet metal rivets. We overcame the 6-degree bend by replacing all the upper sheet metal and the way we welded in the replacement hat channels.

A few reasons why we raised 24":
1. I wanted to replace the windows with dual-pane ones, so we didn't need to worry about putting the windows back.
2. I was going to do a 20" raise, but decided to raise it 24", we wouldn't have to cut the sheet metal down.
3. We decided to put the water tanks inside the bus floor to heat/cool them easier. I want a lot of water for boondocking, so I have two 100 gal freshwater tanks. We are going to raise the floor of the bus to cover the tanks so they don't interfere with the layout, and the rest of the extra space will be for running the electrical conduit, plumbing, or floor storage.

Got pics? That's a lot of geometry change, I'd love to see how it came out.

The place I get steel will cut it to size for nothing. I'd hate to base my geometry around stock sizes of plate!
 
So I am sooo excited to be buying my first bus tomorrow!! It has been a year in the making and it is finally happening! I sadly under estimated how much it was going to cost me to store the bus in a place that allowed me to work on it!



So I have searched the forum and cannot find the answer. I know it has been done and I know it is here, but I can't find it.



Can someone please help point me in the right direction for any tips or advice on a bumper to bumper roof raise.



Also is there anyone in the PNW that has done this or knows a company that can do it for me if I decide I do not want to tackle it myself?


Thank you!
Keith
Colorado Custom Coachworks is near there and does great roof raises from what I've seen on their Instagram.
 
I'm at work, but here's my instagram and some pics of the raise and results.
 

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Roof raises are nice and all but if you look hard enough a high roof bus can be just as good and you can spend the money/time on other components of the build instead.

Some of those high roof Thomas buses are damn near 7 ft in the middle.
 
I know a lot of people here don't approve of this method, but my dad and I raised the roof of my Thomas bus by 24" at the windows. He welded in 1x2 tubes in the hat channels with 1" angle iron on either side for the sheet metal rivets. We overcame the 6-degree bend by replacing all the upper sheet metal and the way we welded in the replacement hat channels.

A few reasons why we raised 24":
1. I wanted to replace the windows with dual-pane ones, so we didn't need to worry about putting the windows back.
2. I was going to do a 20" raise, but decided to raise it 24", we wouldn't have to cut the sheet metal down.
3. We decided to put the water tanks inside the bus floor to heat/cool them easier. I want a lot of water for boondocking, so I have two 100 gal freshwater tanks. We are going to raise the floor of the bus to cover the tanks so they don't interfere with the layout, and the rest of the extra space will be for running the electrical conduit, plumbing, or floor storage.




Raise the roof and the floor. OK. What are the dimensions and material of the 100 gallon tanks you were going to put in the floor? and where did you get them? please.
 
Roof raises are nice and all but if you look hard enough a high roof bus can be just as good and you can spend the money/time on other components of the build instead.

Some of those high roof Thomas buses are damn near 7 ft in the middle.




Now you tell me, LOL, wish that I would of knew that when I bought mine.
 
The water tanks are from RecPro: 100 Gallon RV Water Tank 11" x 81" x 26" NSF Certified and BPA Free. They are 11" tall, so after framing and insulation, the roof will be raised around 16". So, from our 24" of roof raise, we will have about 8" of extra headroom inside.

Raising the floor idea I got from @twonerdsunite instagram & youtube. They put one of these water tanks in the middle of the back the wheel wells, I'm thinking of putting two of mine between the front and back wheel wells, one on either side.
 

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The water tanks are from RecPro: 100 Gallon RV Water Tank 11" x 81" x 26" NSF Certified and BPA Free. They are 11" tall, so after framing and insulation, the roof will be raised around 16". So, from our 24" of roof raise, we will have about 8" of extra headroom inside.

Raising the floor idea I got from @twonerdsunite instagram & youtube. They put one of these water tanks in the middle of the back the wheel wells, I'm thinking of putting two of mine between the front and back wheel wells, one on either side.




Is that your 3 star review on the RecPro web page?

I like the tanks, what is your opinion of them after using them for a while?

I asked a question on the RecPro web page. Maybe you can answer it.
Do the tanks have baffles, if so, how many?


I tried to view your Instagram page, but it wouldn't let me unless I sign up for an Instagram or Facebook account which I don't want. Do you have the pics anywhere else?
 
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It's not my review, we haven't installed the water tanks yet. They do not have baffles. I'll have to check the tanks, I don't remember seeing any welded spots on them.

I've got pictures that I need to upload and start my build page. I'll try to do that this weekend.
 
raising the floor sounds liek a neat idea but make sure you leave access if you are goingto put tanks, heaters, etc im that space.. you need to be able to fix something WHEN it breaks.. if you accidentilly froze your fresh water tank could you replace it? at a minimum fittings for all pipes should have a method for access without tearing the whole bus apart
-Christopher
 
It's not my review, we haven't installed the water tanks yet. They do not have baffles. I'll have to check the tanks, I don't remember seeing any welded spots on them.

I've got pictures that I need to upload and start my build page. I'll try to do that this weekend.




please let us know when you load the pics,
 
I think many will disagree with this. There are more negatives for going too high, than raising it specifically for headroom.
I have heard more than once builders saying if they did it again, it would be lower.

I agree.

My first bus we went up 8" and it was plenty. My Bluebird started out a little lower headroom so we went up 10". I could see going 12" but I am of a mind that the negatives start to overwhelm the benefits beyond that.

I guess that is why many of us are building Skoolies. We can build what we want individually and not be stuck with someone else's idea of what we should have.
 
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If you look close this pic illustrates a lot of what I've been saying. You can see the angles are pretty funky if you look close. I'm looking at a 61" monitor so its easier.
 
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If you look close this pic illustrates a lot of what I've been saying. You can see the angles are pretty funky if you look close. I'm looking at a 61" monitor so its easier.

I see it and IMHO, if they took it down this far, they should have raised below the windows. That way the profile would be the same, just taller. His way was straight side, angled section, and then more straight to look awkward
 
I wish that I could remember where I saw pictures of a Thomas that was raised below the windows. I think that I improve the view through the bus windows. It was pretty slick.

If you must raise the roof on a Thomas, I would definitely recommend you consider the below the windows raise
 
I wish that I could remember where I saw pictures of a Thomas that was raised below the windows. I think that I improve the view through the bus windows. It was pretty slick.

If you must raise the roof on a Thomas, I would definitely recommend you consider the below the windows raise

That requires more sheet metal removed from the side of the bus, including rub rails. A bunch more work, but worth it in the end I think.
 
That requires more sheet metal removed from the side of the bus, including rub rails. A bunch more work, but worth it in the end I think.




I looked at mine and doing it from the bottom looks like the best option to me. You would need to lengthen the back doors on the bottom as well, so you would have a tall back door and handicap chair lift door (if you have one, I do)
 
I wish that I could remember where I saw pictures of a Thomas that was raised below the windows. I think that I improve the view through the bus windows. It was pretty slick.

Agreed....moving the windows up to a more user-friendly and privacy-enhancing height would be worth the extra effort. This guy did it right.
 

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