Can anyone tell me what kind of battery this is?

[Roxy Moon Bus]

These batteries (6 of them) have no marking.
Can anyone tell me what kind of batteries they are?
Also one of the fuse blew and I have no power in my skoolie. Fuse is buss and won’t come till Monday and I can’t find it in stores. I think the setting are wrong but I have no idea. I reached out to a van building company that work with victron to ask if they can check my settings. Always something.

 

[skydawg]

Looks like there is a QR code on them that you could try scanning with your phone.

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

Looks like there is a QR code on them that you could try scanning with your phone.

It’s not a QR code. It pulls up nothing, I’ve tried. It was the first thing I tried.

 

[Slapdash]

Are there any other markings in the case, like a serial number? Maybe stamped in the plastic, possibly on the bottom?

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

There is no markings anywhere on any sides.

 

[nikitis]

Those are DIY Batteries. No brand.

Best you can do is hook a multi-meter up to them and get the statistics.

MOST DIY battery kits like that are decently high quality so unless one of them is bad it shouldn't matter.

Test to see if it's a 12v battery, should be at or near 13.8v if new, or nearer to 13 if used and good, below 13 if going bad after a charge.

There's no good way to test CCA's unless you build a resistance chart for measuring with known good batteries with listed CCA's, and compare. The internet does not seem to have such a chart in existance, I've looked, but in theory if you had a new battery with listed 900 CCA's and you did an ohms test from terminal to terminal, and it outputted a value, that value would be a good resistance value for a 900 CCA battery, and then you could compare your batteries to such a list to get a rough idea of what your CCA's are for those batteries.

This doesn't help you of course because I have no values to give you and you likely aren't going to go out and buy various sizes of batteries to make your own chart, in regards to CCA's of the battery.

I wouldn't worry about the amperage too much. Put two of them together and see if the bus will start, if so it's enough, You could Add one extra battery after that for better amperage storage, and allow for longer cranks.

If 2 batteries isn't enough for the bus, then it's likely got quite a low CCA rating.

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

Those are DIY Batteries. No brand.

Best you can do is hook a multi-meter up to them and get the statistics.

MOST DIY battery kits like that are decently high quality so unless one of them is bad it shouldn't matter.

Test to see if it's a 12v battery, should be at or near 13.8v if new, or nearer to 13 if used and good, below 13 if going bad after a charge.

There's no good way to test CCA's unless you build a resistance chart for measuring with known good batteries with listed CCA's, and compare. The internet does not seem to have such a chart in existance, I've looked, but in theory if you had a new battery with listed 900 CCA's and you did an ohms test from terminal to terminal, and it outputted a value, that value would be a good resistance value for a 900 CCA battery, and then you could compare your batteries to such a list to get a rough idea of what your CCA's are for those batteries.

This doesn't help you of course because I have no values to give you and you likely aren't going to go out and buy various sizes of batteries to make your own chart, in regards to CCA's of the battery.

I wouldn't worry about the amperage too much. Put two of them together and see if the bus will start, if so it's enough, You could Add one extra battery after that for better amperage storage, and allow for longer cranks.

If 2 batteries isn't enough for the bus, then it's likely got quite a low CCA rating.

You are amazing, thank you for the response. It’s the house battery so the battery connected to the solar and inverter. It’s 12 volt, I did a battery check last night before it was full charged so it’s not accurate but the battery checker asked for the type, I choose lithium because that’s what I was told it was and then it asked to choose cca, IEC etc.. I choose IEC cuz and then it asked for the amps I choose 100 amp and then it calculated but it could be incorrect.

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

Those are DIY Batteries. No brand.

Best you can do is hook a multi-meter up to them and get the statistics.

MOST DIY battery kits like that are decently high quality so unless one of them is bad it shouldn't matter.

Test to see if it's a 12v battery, should be at or near 13.8v if new, or nearer to 13 if used and good, below 13 if going bad after a charge.

There's no good way to test CCA's unless you build a resistance chart for measuring with known good batteries with listed CCA's, and compare. The internet does not seem to have such a chart in existance, I've looked, but in theory if you had a new battery with listed 900 CCA's and you did an ohms test from terminal to terminal, and it outputted a value, that value would be a good resistance value for a 900 CCA battery, and then you could compare your batteries to such a list to get a rough idea of what your CCA's are for those batteries.

This doesn't help you of course because I have no values to give you and you likely aren't going to go out and buy various sizes of batteries to make your own chart, in regards to CCA's of the battery.

I wouldn't worry about the amperage too much. Put two of them together and see if the bus will start, if so it's enough, You could Add one extra battery after that for better amperage storage, and allow for longer cranks.

If 2 batteries isn't enough for the bus, then it's likely got quite a low CCA rating.

This is what the victron is showing now.
Also no matter what setting I do, ignore ac input and prioritize solar, the solar still won’t change the percentage on the inverter. It will only start going up when connected to shore power no matter what settings I try.

 

[nikitis]

13.4v is a healthy battery still. What are you trying to accomplish other than determining the CCA? The amps usage on the victron is battery current amps used, not total capable CCA's.

I'm not sure the inverter only cares about the correct voltage and amperage used which looks to be a 12v inverter. 13.4v x 31.33amps = roughly 440-460 watts. So that's what you are drawing, not what you are putting in from solar. (or is this menu from your pic the incoming from solar?)

Also solar amperage is always much lower than a battery bank (or shore power)

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

I honestly don’t even know what CCA means. I was just tryna figure out why my battery drained voltage after 10pm. I realized that even if the BMV 712 says 100% and the voltage is at 13 it doesn’t work with the inverter. The inverter will still drain the voltage and shut everything off. I’m thinking the only way to use the inverter without it also draining my dc power is to connect it to shore power, bring the inverter up to 100% and use inverter only when I’m not connected to shore power or driving long distances.

I was also trying to see if solar I have 640 watts would start making the percent go up on the inverter but it doesn’t so now I know what to do and the battery isn’t dying over night anymore.

 

[Slapdash]

In my experience, CCA's in lead-acid car starting batteries are Cold Cranking Amps, which I don't think are relevant for house batteries and you wouldn't use a lithium house battery to start the vehicle (although you can use a lithium battery to trickle charge the starter battery with the right set up).

Also in my experience, you only need the inverter on if you're running AC appliances. So if you only have like DC puck lights on, or other 12V things, you can shut off the inverter.

 

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

if your battery has CCA then that means cold cranking amps and is not compatible for a solar system. does it work for a little while? yes but a true solar system battery should be lithium ion which doesnt have a CCA rating on it.
i am not a solar specialist but anything with CCA is automotive starting and not long term battery voltage storage .
like lithium batteries and i am just learning that there are 2 different types of lithium batteries and one is supposed to be better than the other?
lithium phoshphate verses lithium ION?
what i have for my little bus solar is from renogy is lithium ION with blue tooth.
it works fine but i have never been offgrid for weeks with it.

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

In my experience, CCA's in lead-acid car starting batteries are Cold Cranking Amps, which I don't think are relevant for house batteries and you wouldn't use a lithium house battery to start the vehicle (although you can use a lithium battery to trickle charge the starter battery with the right set up).

Also in my experience, you only need the inverter on if you're running AC appliances. So if you only have like DC puck lights on, or other 12V things, you can shut off the inverter.

It’s hot as **** in Denver and that’s exactly what I need it for lol. I also need it for the star link and the natures head fan because I haven’t figured out how to convert them to dc power yet. I’ve been watching videos but I haven’t seen a walk through video I can understand yet lol.

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

if your battery has CCA then that means cold cranking amps and is not compatible for a solar system. does it work for a little while? yes but a true solar system battery should be lithium ion which doesnt have a CCA rating on it.
i am not a solar specialist but anything with CCA is automotive starting and not long term battery voltage storage .
like lithium batteries and i am just learning that there are 2 different types of lithium batteries and one is supposed to be better than the other?
lithium phoshphate verses lithium ION?
what i have for my little bus solar is from renogy is lithium ION with blue tooth.
it works fine but i have never been offgrid for weeks with it.

I don’t have a CCA rating, there isn’t any making on the batteries that can tell you what it is but I was told it’s lithium and it’s working like it’s lithium but I wouldn’t know what type of lithium it is. The previous commenter said it was diy batteries and that they are usually really good.

 

[nikitis]

Well all batteries have CCA, just not listed on some. It's really just a sellers term for how much amps are available when the batteries chemical reaction has been idle from sitting. A high CCA is an indication that it can provide a lot of juice chemically when cold or idle for awhile.

Some batteries the way they are made and quality of lead used in lead acid, or volume of the battery, etc, can determine how quickly you can push amps in that condition. Batteries that don't list it usually aren't meant to be used for the purposes of cranking but certainly can be used, especially when many batteries are used in a parallel configuration. You increase the available amps the more batteries you have in parallel. For a Bus Engine a single battery if it has a high enough CCA could crank with a single battery, but that battery isn't going to last very long if you use a single. A low CCA single battery likely won't be enough to turn the engine.

This is why with two medium CCA rated batteries together in parallel can start a bus pretty easily, and fleets that don't want to deal with it as much put in a 3rd battery for even more starting amps. Because you are dividing the amps required to crank over the engine cold across 3 of the batteries it's easier to crank and better for the longevity of your batteries.

Someone on here even replaced Lead acid batteries with LiPO 4 batteries he put together in paralllel. Bought like 18 smaller capacity LiPO4 batteries and wired them in parallel and started his bus easily with them.

A good way to think of batteries is the ions traveling through the electrolytic has to find a parking space. If there's congestion either due to design of the batteries cathodes and anodes, it's harder for the ions to get to the space. This congestion is similar to what i'm saying above with CCA's. A higher CCA battery is designed better so the ions can move more freely with less congestion..

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

Well all batteries have CCA, just not listed on some. It's really just a sellers term for how much amps are available when the batteries chemical reaction has been idle from sitting. A high CCA is an indication that it can provide a lot of juice chemically when cold or idle for awhile.

Some batteries the way they are made and quality of lead used in lead acid, or volume of the battery, etc, can determine how quickly you can push amps in that condition. Batteries that don't list it usually aren't meant to be used for the purposes of cranking but certainly can be used, especially when many batteries are used in a parallel configuration. You increase the available amps the more batteries you have in parallel. For a Bus Engine a single battery if it has a high enough CCA could crank with a single battery, but that battery isn't going to last very long if you use a single. A low CCA single battery likely won't be enough to turn the engine.

This is why with two medium CCA rated batteries together in parallel can start a bus pretty easily, and fleets that don't want to deal with it as much put in a 3rd battery for even more starting amps. Because you are dividing the amps required to crank over the engine cold across 3 of the batteries it's easier to crank and better for the longevity of your batteries.

Someone on here even replaced Lead acid batteries with LiPO 4 batteries he put together in paralllel. Bought like 18 smaller capacity LiPO4 batteries and wired them in parallel and started his bus easily with them.

A good way to think of batteries is the ions traveling through the electrolytic has to find a parking space. If there's congestion either due to design of the batteries cathodes and anodes, it's harder for the ions to get to the space. This congestion is similar to what i'm saying above with CCA's. A higher CCA battery is designed better so the ions can move more freely with less congestion..

These batteries have no descriptors but I was told they are lithium and the settings are as such and it’s running great.

Thanks for the info on CCA. I have 6 house batteries running parallel and it’s good. The health is good at 13.4 volt I was told. The engine batteries is prefect and was never an issue.

Thank you

 

[nikitis]

Any time.

Lithium typically do not have as high as CCA aren't aren't as good for cranking over an engine but it can do it, but Lithium are better because you can charge down to zero and they not die on you. The downside is they only like to be charged up to 80-85%. The reason for this is like this analogy. As you approach 100% there's less parking spots for ion storage so they have to drive around looking for one generating heat in the process and wearing down the batteries more.

For anyone using Lithium Ion batteries, take note of this. If you want your batteries to last longer don't always charge them to 100% If it's a slow charge then it's better to do so, but quick charging to 100% will wear them out faster. 100% is good for the times you need all the juice you can get for a trip, but you should size for what you need based on 85% charge to have the best house setup.

Lead acid though likes to be charged to 100%, and in fact sometimes you can revive a dead lead acid by overcharging quickly beyond 100%. It's dangerous though and I do not recommend for safety reasons as it could explode, but for scientific reasons and understanding here, it will help burn off the dendrites that form on the cathodes blocking the connection (and thus appearance of a dead battery) and bring the battery back to life. But Lead acid you can only safely go down to 50% and make them last long. Going below 50% kills them quickly.

 

[Roxy Moon Bus]

When I looked up what to set the charging limits for ion they were all saying set it 95-99% but you’re saying 80-85%? Is there a big difference between those sets of numbers?

 

[nikitis]

Not much honestly. When you say "they were all saying" Who's they?

If the battery manufacturer said so then go with what they recommend, minus 5%. If it's just a store guy who didn't make them, then I'd stick with the 85% range. The values I stated are more a good round generic use.