car problems

TravelingMan-SKO

Advanced Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2005
Posts
75
Location
Land of Oz
i have a 92 cavalier with 3.1L V6, multi port fuel injection that will not start. i,ve changed the fuel filter preasure tested the fuel pump, checked all fuses and have strong spark all are good. I got in the car she started right up smooth as silk and three seconds later just died like i had turned it off and now will not start unless I feed fuel throught the intake and yes ther is gas in the tank :wink: . The only thing I can think of is that the injectors may not be opening. Has anyone run into this before?
 
check all your fuses !!!

i had this problem in my vw fox and spent hours working on it trying to diagnose the problem. it turned out to be a fuse.
 
Have you been able to get any codes from the computer? It sounds like it is definately fuel related. It could be a lot of different sensors causing the problem. If you can get the computer codes you will have somewhere to start. I would buy the Haynes book for car and get the codes to start with. Also try the auto groups on Yahoo.
Mike

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/autorepair
 
I had this stupid Nissan pickup that was nothing but trouble. It never had good power burned gas like a V8 and always got hot. Then it started up with what I thought was lifter noise. Turned out to be the head was messed up bad from overheating. After I put a new head on it I thought it would run better. I finally thought I should try replacing the O2 sensor. That was the problem. I think the previous owner could not figure out why it kept overheating and decided to sell it. He had even removed the theromostat. All that trouble and expense for a $25 O2 sensor. That truck was bad luck, I am glad I sold it.
 
How would I check injector pulse without messing up the ecu? I hate trying to figuring out these cars but I could'nt turn down a$500 car that's in such good shape and run like a top up till now. Thanks for all the help so far.
 
Since it is a 92 autozone cannot read the codes they only do ODBII codes. If you get the haynes manual it will tell you how to get the codes. Usually there is a connector under the hood or dash that you jumper (paper clip) and the check engine light will flash the codes to you. Each car is a little different so you really need the manual. I would start with the computer before anything else. The computer can usually tell you what is wrong.
 
Look for a bad relay that controls the fuel pump.
Yes, a bad relay!
You have electronicus interruptus.

Had a similar problem on two vehicles, basically the relay can fall out of it's holder, turned upside down, and would fill with rain water/road spray.
Eventually it corrodes the contacts in the relay.
One warning sign before it happens is the car is a bit balky to start, JUST before the thing won't start at all.

Check that you have power going TO the fuel pump relay from the battery when switched on. If you can hear the fuel pump whirr to life when you turn the key, the fuel pump and relay are OK.
Then check that power is going THROUGH the relay when power is switched on.
If that checks out, you may have a clogged fuel filter (some systems have TWO of them!), or even a bad (low flowing or leaking internally) fuel pump.

You may have a bad/corroded connection to the fuel pump. Examine all connectors, clean and apply dielectric grease where necesary.

I actually got $2000 off the book price of my current truck when I bought it. Seems the guy had had the engine rebuilt some 50K beforehand, and then got the overdrive tranny rebuilt. He drives it home, next day it won't start. 35 miles on the new tranny.
He figures, "what the ****, just paid a grand for the repairs, and now the other fuel pump went (this vehicle has two tanks, two fuel pumps. The front had stopped, so when he had this problem he thought the rear had failed too).

So he sits on the truck for over two years, finally decided to sell it, and put the ad in the local Want Advertiser.
I show up, there's a basically OK F150 Lariat with EVERYTHING, and I diagnose the bad relay.
Bought the truck for $995, he was the original owner, HAD THE ORIGINAL WINDOW STICKER, ALL REPAIR PAPERWORK, EVERYTHING, tool box, rack, the works.
I have it towed home, $12 relay, $60 ball joints, four $10 tires ON WHEELS from a boneyard and I'm Jones'n. Been good to me, replaced the steering box seals, power window motor, and enjoy the A/C.
Total less than $1300.

Considering replacing the front fuel pump. Would like both tanks working.
 

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