COLD, CAULK, and CUSTOM DIY WINDOWS

[Joe45]

Joe45

Regarding galvanic corrosion -- you only need to use a layer of tape (packing tape would work) between the Al and steel frame.

I will most aluminum frame windows are pretty cheap though...
The Al will conduct heat/cold to the outside pretty easily.

I was always amazed that the windows in my 1962 Fireball camper were better than most of the windows used in houses built in the 70's to '90 in Fort Collins, CO. Super cheap aluminum track windows -- I use them for a green house but not much more...

But I also respect a no-money budget hence the suggestion for scotch tape which is exactly what we used to install the steel bearing housings on the aluminum pillow blocks of the tail rotor drive shaft on a Huey (UH-1H) too easy!

I used butyl tape and foam rubber gaskets.

 

[ACamper-SKO]

Has anyone worked with caulking for the windows in the cold? Right now we're in the mid 60s during the daytime and mid to low 30s at night. Any recommendations?

I have used calking in similar temps with no problems. I usually wait until 10am or so to start so it gets the warmest part of the day to cure. It seems to cure in a few hours. I have had the best results with silicon calking.

I haven't spent a lot of time reading labels but some calking is designed to cure faster so you can paint over it the same day.

 

[Joe45]

I have used calking in similar temps with no problems. I usually wait until 10am or so to start so it gets the warmest part of the day to cure. It seems to cure in a few hours. I have had the best results with silicon calking.

I haven't spent a lot of time reading labels but some calking is designed to cure faster so you can paint over it the same day.

Thanks.


I think what may be the best thing is to cover the bus with a tarp, open the windows, turn on the propane heater for a couple of hours, and then do the rest of the caulking and insulation.