Copper, Black Steel or Stainless Steel Tubing for Propane?

[wanderingturtl]

Which type of tubing / piping do you prefer for propane lines, and why?

I was going to use copper, but started thinking the rigidity of black steel might be safer. But, I hesitate to put brass fittings on Steel pipe because the galvanic effect can rust out the steel.

Thoughts?

 

[cessna175]

good afternoon, any of the above will work for propane. Some stuff may be a bit more expensive than other stuff, but preference might be your best guide. I'm not sure but the new code on copper is a plastic/vinyl coated copper for corrosion and scratches. With that said, you might want to use hard pipe coming out of the heater/ furnace itself simply for fuel volume. Propane I believe has the highest BTU's per single gas fuels. There for hard pipe might serve as a better supply line. As for corrosion, I'm not really up to date on crossing alloys, but I've been installing brass gas valves on black iron for years, and then attaching stainless gas lines on residential furnaces as a standard, and it does pass city/state code in Texas where I'm located. Good luck, and have fun with your install. Oh , I assume your talking about a mobile bus install. Use lots of vibration dampers/ supports for security.

 

[BamaBus]

See NFPA 1192 on nfpa.org for installation of gas piping for rv's. A good guide unless officially adopted by your local AHJ.

 

[wanderingturtl]

See NFPA 1192 on nfpa.org for installation of gas piping for rv's. A good guide unless officially adopted by your local AHJ.

it seems like they say you can use any type.

 

[cessna175]

Good evening, Have you ever seen all the stainless "Swedgelok" stuff? It's really nice, and used heavily in industrial applications for fuels and gases. I'm thinking it would be a top notch method for propane on a mobile vehicle. After all, have you seen what the RV industry uses?

 

[heimlich]

I put my propane tanks right under my oven. I drilled a hole through the floor up to the over and ran one opf those bendable yellow lines from the over to the regulator.

 

[LilBusDude]

Most boat industrials will use copper pipes and brass fittings for the entier propane system. Works very fine.

 

[Booyah45828]

Use CSST.

I relocated the propane tank on my house, and used this and it was a breeze. I got mine from menards, but it's available at most box stores and online.

I don't like copper, as it's known to work harden and then break. On a moving environment like a school bus, it will flex with the chassis and work harden, and then crack and leak.

 

[sportyrick]

you better price those swedgelock fittings first, very xpensive.

 

[Booyah45828]

I don't recall them being that awful. The most expensive one was less then 20 IIRC and it included a ball valve shut off. I only used 2, one into the regulator and the other on the end at the furnace. I guess if you're using that many propane devices it could get expensive.

Only reason I went with csst in my house was because it was cheaper and easier to do so then using copper, and I own the flaring tools for 1/2". If you factor buying those tools into the cost I don't see how it would even be close? Then again, I did this 3 years ago, so prices might have swung wildly by then like everything else has.

 

[LargeMarge-TC]

Which type of tubing / piping do you prefer for propane lines, and why?...

.
I measure once one day and write this measurement on masking tape.
On a different day, I measure again.
Then somebody verifies my measurements.
Then I add a foot/.3m to each end (I probably could add two feet/.6m to each end, but then somebody would probably think I am some kind of dufis).
We take the measurements with a description of the fittings to the hose shop.
.
The hose shop builds my hose with the proper fittings.
.
To reduce chafe, the hose shop has tough rubberized exterior liners and guards.
Wrap one on, and secure it with zip-ties.
.
Why hose instead of metal?
.. Ease of installation.
.. Curvy, so I avoid mandatory straight runs.
.. Different grades of hose are rated at many thousands of psi, so they can probably handle the post-regulator .4psi (1/3psi) mostly.

 

[Rucker]

In my shuttle bus I only plumbed for the instant water heater. I figured I could use the small green cans for the stove (campstove anyway).

I put the dual propane tanks as close to the heater as possible, first of all, to minimize runs. I also made sure the entire length of the line was accessible for annual or periodic inspection.

I chose flex line for supply, and have it on the list for replacement every couple of years. Chafing, vibration, heat cracks are inevitable.

If I had a straight run I would have used black iron or galvanized, with flex connections at each end.

 

[Ozbozz57]

I used black pipe, 1/2 inch throughout, routed under the floor and continuing up through floor penetrations. Each appliance (water heater, cooktop, and furnace) is connected with 3/8 soft copper and brass flare fittings, secured to prevent vibration. Brass valves for each point of use. There is a piece of propane-rated hose connecting the tank regulator to the hard piping system. I've worked with steel pipe for many years, and have threading dies.
Steel pipe and black iron fittings are essentially bullet proof.
I leak tested the system - held 30 PSI for 2 hours.
I'd imagine stainless pipe would be fine as well. I've not worked in stainless, though.

 

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

brass on black iron or copper is fine.
do not use galvanized the coating flakes off over time and can clog your orifice and or regulator.

 

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

also as mentioned do not use soft copper tubing.
hard copper pipe with soldered joints is fine as well as brazed joint but brazing makes the fitting soft so it would need to have ridgid supports on either side say within 6" of either side of the fitting.
also the yellow flex lines you get from the hardware stores if someone has not ripped the tag off states that the are not rated for RVs.
i used and prefer sch40 black steel pipe but i have full access to several threading machines and i do commercial/industrial piping for a living so the tools and equipment to do any method mentioned.
with CSST/tracpipe it needs to be sleeved through the penetrations but i recommend sleeves no matter what method is used.

 

[Golden_Otto_Bus]

Which type of tubing / piping do you prefer for propane lines, and why?

I was going to use copper, but started thinking the rigidity of black steel might be safer. But, I hesitate to put brass fittings on Steel pipe because the galvanic effect can rust out the steel.

Thoughts?

Check out commercial rigs. They use rubber hoses. I prefer rubber hose encased in braided SS.
Same stuff for hooking up BBQs etc.

 

[Jon1371usmc]

In my shuttle bus I only plumbed for the instant water heater. I figured I could use the small green cans for the stove (campstove anyway).

I put the dual propane tanks as close to the heater as possible, first of all, to minimize runs. I also made sure the entire length of the line was accessible for annual or periodic inspection.

I chose flex line for supply, and have it on the list for replacement every couple of years. Chafing, vibration, heat cracks are inevitable.

If I had a straight run I would have used black iron or galvanized, with flex connections at each end.

Can't use galvanized pipe for gas, the gas will cause failure of the coating. That's why black iron is used and painted after install