Drip Rails: Remove Rivets for Skinning?

[aerowenn]

Wife and I are getting close to making cuts for roof raise, so this part is a little further out, but, curious what people normally do here. There is a very dense row of solid rivets holding our side drip rails onto the bus above the windows. I'm assuming most people don't remove these and reattach with the skin panels behind them?

I ordered all the metal we need for skinning, but I got it wide enough that we could go underneath those rivets if we needed to (or just hide the remainder under the rub rails below). How have you all handled this portion? Hoping there's a water proof way of not taking those rivets out and attaching panels with them but maybe not.

 

[Timeline]

Hi!
You could just add an angle iron (about 14 gauge) to the top, and rivet to that, no need to cut those brow rivets if done this way. I did it a bit different, but the top angle is all you'll need to sheet over multiple windows...
Good luck!
John
Check out these pix:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/covering-up-windows-41659.html

 

[ewo1]

Take a look at my build thread…post # 44

This is how i did what you are asking about!

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/bus-9906-a-26674-3.html

 

[aerowenn]

Got it, looks like you chose to remove and replace them with the sheets behind? Did you use an air hammer to do this? I have zero issue zipping them off from a work standpoint, it would only take me about an hour or so, but we are also working outside and though we don't have close neighbors, the bus being empty has turned into an awesome speaker and makes a ton of noise. I suppose we could drill them out to reduce that but that sounds miserable haha.

 

[aerowenn]

Hi!
You could just add an angle iron (about 14 gauge) to the top, and rivet to that, no need to cut those brow rivets if done this way. I did it a bit different, but the top angle is all you'll need to sheet over multiple windows...
Good luck!
John
Check out these pix:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/covering-up-windows-41659.html

You mean welded inside the window openings to provide support across the top? I could see this working, but what about the gap/seam? Lap sealer maybe?

 

[aerowenn]

Hi!
You could just add an angle iron (about 14 gauge) to the top, and rivet to that, no need to cut those brow rivets if done this way. I did it a bit different, but the top angle is all you'll need to sheet over multiple windows...
Good luck!
John
Check out these pix:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/covering-up-windows-41659.html

Sorry I should have just read your thread that you linked before replying lol. I see what you did and used; sweet idea! Holding up well still?

 

[ewo1]

Got it, looks like you chose to remove and replace them with the sheets behind? Did you use an air hammer to do this? I have zero issue zipping them off from a work standpoint, it would only take me about an hour or so, but we are also working outside and though we don't have close neighbors, the bus being empty has turned into an awesome speaker and makes a ton of noise. I suppose we could drill them out to reduce that but that sounds miserable haha.

I only had to remove the 3 rivets on the top drip rail. I used a chisel to make the space wider on the ribs, slid the sheet on up and secured.
I did put sealant up in the cavity first so that as I slid the sheet metal up into the drip rail I was assured that it would be sealed up good.

There is no need to remove all the rivets from the drip rail. I used an air chisel to remove the rivets.

 

[Timeline]

Sorry I should have just read your thread that you linked before replying lol. I see what you did and used; sweet idea! Holding up well still?

Yeah its rhinoceros proof.

 

[Timeline]

I only had to remove the 3 rivets on the top drip rail. I used a chisel to make the space wider on the ribs, slid the sheet on up and secured.
I did put sealant up in the cavity first so that as I slid the sheet metal up into the drip rail I was assured that it would be sealed up good.

There is no need to remove all the rivets from the drip rail. I used an air chisel to remove the rivets.

Lots of ways to successfully skin a ... bus! :Thanx:

 

[nikitis]

I'm cutting below my windows, and plan to lift the windows up with the roof raise, so I don't touch any of that structure. I also carry my window frames with me up, so no need to rebuild the window frames either. Saves on metal. Requres a cut under the window where the bumper bar is currently so I'll have to remove that but there's far less rivits for the bumper bar than at the top of the window. Same as yours.

 

[Mike A-SKO]

I removed all the drip rail rivets and slid the new panel under the drip rail. The replacement rivets went through the new panel. I used a thick scraper to help spread the gap for the new panel.

 

[HamSkoolie]

For the first two windows we deleted (we have transit windows rather than traditional skoolie ones) we removed the drip rail rivets and then sandwiched the new panel behind the drip rail and re riveted.
On the next set we realized (while removing the factory panels the windows were installed in) that the factory side panels didn't go as high as the drip rail rivet line and so we simply sealed the slot with polyurethane, slid the panel in, and riveted it to the framing and panels ahead, behind, and below.

 

[Bjorkinman]

I just finished my roof raise

Hey, dont remove those, they just end up making a ton more work for you. I did a 16" raise on a bluebird all american and removed all those rivets - I will never do it this way again. It took a lot more time, plus removing them wasnt pretty in lots of places and now im having to repair areas via welding to get the rivets to seal up and using lap sealant everywhere. Just pry apart as best as you can with the pry bar and jam the sheet in. No need to add the angle either as I just think it would make for a ton of extra work. I did remove the lower rub rail entirely and once you put that back on everything tightens up really nicely.
Best of luck.
Oh, I did everything outside as well, worst part is having to tarp and re tarp every time you try to work on it.

 

[ewo1]

This is how I did mine, only removed the rivets at the ribs and not where the windows were.

I used a 3 inch wide chisel, the kind you use for splitting bricks.
Tap it in as far as you can and pull out slightly to ensure the metal can slide all the way up and in.

I then used a self tapping screw in the hole where I removed the rivet in order to hold the sheet up in place.

Once all my skins were "hanging" in place I went around the entire bus on "Rivet" duty!

Zoom in on the pic for a better view.