DT466e - coolant choices

[ewo1]

I am trying to better understand the coolant requirements for the Dt466. From what I have read so far, pre-1999 your ok with using the standard green coolant. From there, I am lost.
I just finished doing an in-frame and now it's time to replace the coolant and go for a test drive.
So what i am working with here is a 2006 DT466 w/EGR.

I went to napa and got more confused than when I said "I do" when I got married... LOL...

I took pictures of the 4 choices I have to work with so if anyone with more knowledge can help me choose the right coolant, I would be very grateful!

Here they are.

Which one would be the best choice?

 

[sportyrick]

Mother Nature gives you all the distilled water you can catch....when it's raining!!!!!! Always use distilled water to dilute your antifreeze.

 

[Hiyu]

I'm told diesels can't use regular coolant, you need a special coolant, I found one for my ford diesel, but am having trouble finding the correct brand for my skoolie duramax. My local NAPA store did not carry it, they have additives they say, won't touch that

 

[Timeline]

I'll be watching this thread to see if I put a proper coolant in my 2003 466e.

From reading other forums it seems that because of failing seal problems in some years 466e's International sent a packet of coolant additive to be used once only. I recall that the additive should be used after a rebuild too. It's available on ebay sometimes and so I bought 2 if you find out you need one, I'll send you one. For coolant I put in Rotella ELC it's red. My bus has no coolant filter...



John

 

[BamaBus]

I am trying to better understand the coolant requirements for the Dt466. From what I have read so far, pre-1999 your ok with using the standard green coolant. From there, I am lost.
I just finished doing an in-frame and now it's time to replace the coolant and go for a test drive.
So what i am working with here is a 2006 DT466 w/EGR.

I went to napa and got more confused than when I said "I do" when I got married... LOL...

I took pictures of the 4 choices I have to work with so if anyone with more knowledge can help me choose the right coolant, I would be very grateful!

Here they are.

Which one would be the best choice?

I would use the Final Charge nitrite-free extended life coolant concentrate from NAPA part # FAF 00836. If you order it online for local pickup, use the coupon code TREAT15 for a 15% discount. You would need to dilute with distilled water.

 

[Booyah45828]

The presence of an egr cooler is what determines which coolant to use IMO. With egr coolers, you want to use the black jug only. Silicates, nitrites, phosphates, etc will plug egr coolers due to the high heat. International will say you can use low silicate formulations, I say low is still too much. No is what you want, which is what that black jug is. I'd prefer if it wasn't premixed, and I would ask if they can get you some concentrate, but in the end you have to use what's available, and if it's 50/50 then so be it.

 

[ewo1]

2 votes for the final charge/black jug...
Thanks guys!

I was clueless to the differences and thanks to this forum and all the good people in it...Well al I can say is THANK YOU !


:Thanx::Thanx::Thanx::Thanx:

 

[Dbacks2k4]

I've had early 2000s DT466e's that came from the districts with standard green coolant. My mechanic said it was fine but recommends the red Final Charge which is what we change everything over to. The advantage to the red extended life is not having to worry about the coolant breaking down and needing flushed as often.

The most important thing he said was to not mix coolant types as that causes cavitation which can lead to engine damage.

 

[stixNstaples]

This scares me,how many gallons does a bus take? Factoring in the heaters to the front. Imagine quite a few. Mine has the red stuff in one of them,don't remember on the other. Did you do the inframe? While looks interesting to do,hoping i don't have to do it anytime soon.

 

[stixNstaples]

And also what is difference between fleet and final charge. I like to buy straight and dilute myself. I know factory was Rotella as the sticker still on it,but I wanna do most financial electable route.

 

[Dbacks2k4]

This scares me,how many gallons does a bus take? Factoring in the heaters to the front. Imagine quite a few. Mine has the red stuff in one of them,don't remember on the other. Did you do the inframe? While looks interesting to do,hoping i don't have to do it anytime soon.

My bus is around 10 gallons or so I think.

Every now and then (well pre-pandemic supply chain crisis) Farm & Fleet would have it on sale for like $10/gallon and I'd stock up. It's usually about $15/gal there. I still shop around online. Last time I scored a deal from NAPA for $13/gal buying in bulk.

I made the mistake of buying once from Autozone for $22/gal and not shopping around. 12 gallons... OUCH

 

[Pop’s Skoolie]

My International shop in Bristol, VA

They told me that they sell/install Shell ELC Concentrate in a black one gallon jug. I bought mine at Tractor Supply. They had the best price $21.99. It’s the red stuff.
I did add a Napa 4070 Coolant Filter & 50% distilled water in my DT466E 2002 International Blue Bird.

 

[Clouse House]

Another vote for Shell ELC in the black jug. And shop around as far as price.
I live in a town that's known for horse shows and raising livestock, everyone around here drives big diesels. The Tractor Supply here in town had only one bottle for $32.99. I took a 20 minute drive to the next town over, a university town, where everyone had civics and toyotas. Tractor Supply there had eight bottles on the shelf for $21.99.
Supply and demand.

 

[Booyah45828]

FYI, If you have any aluminum in the system(radiator), make sure the coolant you use is nitrite free.

Nitrites will corrode the solder on the aluminum radiators.

Most elc's will have a nitrite free formula, or have it stated that they are nitrite free.

If you've got an all iron/brass system, then you can use nitrited coolants.

Final charge is nitritre, silicate, borate, and phosphate free, and that's why we use it/pay more for it.

 

[stixNstaples]

I found it at Walmart,but was all 50/50. Starting to get cold they may have been sold out.

 

[Pop’s Skoolie]

FYI, If you have any aluminum in the system(radiator), make sure the coolant you use is nitrite free.

Nitrites will corrode the solder on the aluminum radiators.

Most elc's will have a nitrite free formula, or have it stated that they are nitrite free.

If you've got an all iron/brass system, then you can use nitrited coolants.

Final charge is nitritre, silicate, borate, and phosphate free, and that's why we use it/pay more for it.

Booths I just read the report that spells out nitrites eat away the aluminum that is often present in a cooling system. It was done by scientists at Western Australia University. I’m new here and a novice at engines, but I wish I had known that before putting ELC in my radiator. Thanks for the post. Do you think Final Charge can handle the SCA’s that the sleeve inserts need to cut down on the cavitation as well as being nitrite free?

 

[Booyah45828]

Final charge handles cavitation and corrosion all on it's own without using nitrites, phosphates, borates, and silicates that are found and used in 90+% of antifreezes out there. It's fully formulated, no sca's/dca's required. The only thing you monitor with it is ph, clarity and freeze point.

Here is a list of coolant additives and a description of the how's, why's, and drawback's of each one.
https://gmb.net/blog/common-coolant-additives-explained/

What isn't mentioned in that article is precipitation of those additives in egr coolers. If you've got an egr cooler, that's a huge issue that needs to be factored into your decision.

 

[Booyah45828]

FWIW, I just read they came out with a pro-series final charge.

https://www.enginebuildermag.com/20...ro-series-with-heavy-duty-coolant-technology/

Not sure the exact difference or reasoning behind it, but it apparently has phosphates in it, which is disappointing and to be avoided imo.

 

[Drew Bru]

Final charge handles cavitation and corrosion all on it's own without using nitrites, phosphates, borates, and silicates that are found and used in 90+% of antifreezes out there. It's fully formulated, no sca's/dca's required. The only thing you monitor with it is ph, clarity and freeze point.

Safe to use in a 96 DT466 mechanical engine?

 

[Booyah45828]

Sure, so long as you flush thoroughly first with water and then refill. You don't want multiple coolant types in a system, because at best, none will do the job correctly. At worst you'll turn the system into sludge.

So flushing prior to installing any new coolant is recommended, unless you're replacing like for like and your certain about it.

If your 1996 already has green in it, check the additive level, adjust it if necessary, and keep it green. A 96 wouldn't require an elc, so it's optional and up to you to install it.