DT466E Turbo\Wastegate issue

[timeDucky]

Hi Folks,

I've got a 2005 International RE300 with a DT466E engine and MD3060 transmission.

We've drove from WA to NY and about half way through the trip I noticed we just didn't seem to have any power at all. I purchased a ScanGague to help try and diagnose the issue and found that it appears to be an issue with what I think is the turbo wastegate or\and actuator. When driving it, according to the gague I was only getting 1 to 3# of boost. I've taken it to now... three different mechanics 2 in MD 1 of which was an actual international dealer and one in NY. I can't get any of them to work on this damn thing, so I am guessing I'm going to have to try and figure it out myself.

I've got a video here on youtube showing what I believe to be the actuator failing to open the waste gate (https://youtu.be/0YqDYFbG5cw) I was just wondering if anyone happened to have any similar experience with this part failing? If so was it a simple actuator replace, or something a bit more like replacing the entire turbo?

:Thanx:
Thanks,
Jacob.

 

[Power Hungry]

I just went through this last month. The servo motor on the controller goes bad and does not close the vanes in the turbo, leading to a low boost/power condition.

With the key on and engine off, you should not be able to move the rod between the actuator and the turbo. The motor should push back. If you can easily move the rod against the internal spring, you'll need to replace the actuator.

The actuator is easy to replace. 4 10mm nuts, a small bolt for the linkage, and a plug. Takes about 15 minutes. The actuator costs about $500.00 and is readily available just about anywhere.

 

[timeDucky]

I just went through this last month. The servo motor on the controller goes bad and does not close the vanes in the turbo, leading to a low boost/power condition.

With the key on and engine off, you should not be able to move the rod between the actuator and the turbo. The motor should push back. If you can easily move the rod against the internal spring, you'll need to replace the actuator.

The actuator is easy to replace. 4 10mm nuts, a small bolt for the linkage, and a plug. Takes about 15 minutes. The actuator costs about $500.00 and is readily available just about anywhere.

Thanks a bunch for the reply. Always good to hear from someone who has experienced the same sort of problem with a potential fix. I'll do some testing on that rod. I don't ever recall if I attempted to pry it open while the vehicle was 100% off.

On a side note. I noticed on another thread your perf\tune up flash -- I did write to the sales team to see if my bus is compatible. Will wait to hear back to see if it's a potential candidate for the performance flash.

Thanks Again,
Jacob.

 

[Power Hungry]

Thanks a bunch for the reply. Always good to hear from someone who has experienced the same sort of problem with a potential fix. I'll do some testing on that rod. I don't ever recall if I attempted to pry it open while the vehicle was 100% off.

On a side note. I noticed on another thread your perf\tune up flash -- I did write to the sales team to see if my bus is compatible. Will wait to hear back to see if it's a potential candidate for the performance flash.

Thanks Again,
Jacob.

Yeah, our bus was a slow moving turd until I fixed the actuator. The odd thing was that it never even set a code and since we had just bought it, I didn't even know the difference. It wasn't until I got it home and started tuning it that I found out the actuator was bad. Talk about a major difference in performance when I replaced it!

Orion works fine on the 2005 drivetrain. That's the same year as the drivetrain in our bus and we were able to actually crank the power up to as much as 450 HP. I've got it turned down a bit now... Maybe 400 HP... and it drives fantastic! Great acceleration and cruises comfortably at 70 MPH. Just need to get some mileage testing done, but initial indications show about 1.5 - 2.0 MPG improvement, which is exciting.

Anyway.... testing the actuator is very simple.

1) Bounce Test - Key Off. Push against actuator rod all the way closed. The spring should snap the actuator back and it should 'bounce' against the internal stop. This verifies the actuator is not frozen.

2) Servo Test - Key On, Engine Off. When energized, the actuator should go to a fully closed position (opposite of resting position when off) and then hold there. At this point, you should not be able to move it as the servo while try to hold the position. If the actuator arm does not move closed, or if you can move the arm at all with the key on, the motor is bad. This is likely the case.

I'll see if I can find the part number and company I ordered mine from.

Take care.

 

[timeDucky]

Yeah, our bus was a slow moving turd until I fixed the actuator. The odd thing was that it never even set a code and since we had just bought it, I didn't even know the difference. It wasn't until I got it home and started tuning it that I found out the actuator was bad. Talk about a major difference in performance when I replaced it!

Orion works fine on the 2005 drivetrain. That's the same year as the drivetrain in our bus and we were able to actually crank the power up to as much as 450 HP. I've got it turned down a bit now... Maybe 400 HP... and it drives fantastic! Great acceleration and cruises comfortably at 70 MPH. Just need to get some mileage testing done, but initial indications show about 1.5 - 2.0 MPG improvement, which is exciting.

Anyway.... testing the actuator is very simple.

1) Bounce Test - Key Off. Push against actuator rod all the way closed. The spring should snap the actuator back and it should 'bounce' against the internal stop. This verifies the actuator is not frozen.

2) Servo Test - Key On, Engine Off. When energized, the actuator should go to a fully closed position (opposite of resting position when off) and then hold there. At this point, you should not be able to move it as the servo while try to hold the position. If the actuator arm does not move closed, or if you can move the arm at all with the key on, the motor is bad. This is likely the case.

I'll see if I can find the part number and company I ordered mine from.

Take care.

I did end up getting a replacement at a local international dealer around here. I did those tests you had listed on both the replacement and the old unit, the replacement functions as expcted so far. I haven't test driven it quite yet but will soon, but just from the testing I suspect it'll be ok.

I don't want to derail from the original topic too much. But can the orian kit also disable the idle shutdown?? Looked like there was perhaps some additional paramaters that it may be able to tweak, just not sure what those are.

 

[cadillackid]

I haven’t found a parameter that the Orion can’t change yet. It appears to change everything the god mode servicemaxx can change and of course make your bus fast as hell.

 

[timeDucky]

I haven’t found a parameter that the Orion can’t change yet. It appears to change everything the god mode servicemaxx can change and of course make your bus fast as hell.

Awesome, thanks for the info I'll probably go ahead and order a kit... I suspect it'll be useful for a while... wife is already talking about "we'll do that in the next bus" heh.

Thanks.

 

[Power Hungry]

I haven’t found a parameter that the Orion can’t change yet. It appears to change everything the god mode servicemaxx can change and of course make your bus fast as hell.

Yeah... What he said. :biggrin:

 

[Dirtdoctor]

Also..... check the rubber airline from the air cooler and filter to turbo and from the turbo to the head. Crack in that rubber and you loose psi of boost.
Small
Cracks will fool you.
Cheers

 

[nconn]

I just went through this last month. The servo motor on the controller goes bad and does not close the vanes in the turbo, leading to a low boost/power condition.

With the key on and engine off, you should not be able to move the rod between the actuator and the turbo. The motor should push back. If you can easily move the rod against the internal spring, you'll need to replace the actuator.

The actuator is easy to replace. 4 10mm nuts, a small bolt for the linkage, and a plug. Takes about 15 minutes. The actuator costs about $500.00 and is readily available just about anywhere.

I am trying to diagnose a turbo issue (I think). Do you happen to have a video of this failing so I know what I’m looking for? I used to be able to hear my turbo and now I’m not hearing it and the bus seems to be a lot slower.

 

[cadillackid]

I am trying to diagnose a turbo issue (I think). Do you happen to have a video of this failing so I know what I’m looking for? I used to be able to hear my turbo and now I’m not hearing it and the bus seems to be a lot slower.

if 2002 is the year of your bus (shows in your panel).. then you dont have a VGT. so theres no actuator...



you may have a failed turbo, an exahaust leak preventing spool up, or a boot / intercooler leak that you dont get boost.. most often with an exhaust or boot leak you hear it. its pretty easy to take the intake side off of the turbo and inspect the compressor wheel / shaft for end and side-side play.



its also possible your waste gate is stuck.. ( some have wastegate some dont) you should be able to manually actuate the wastegate..

 

[nconn]

if 2002 is the year of your bus (shows in your panel).. then you dont have a VGT. so theres no actuator...



you may have a failed turbo, an exahaust leak preventing spool up, or a boot / intercooler leak that you dont get boost.. most often with an exhaust or boot leak you hear it. its pretty easy to take the intake side off of the turbo and inspect the compressor wheel / shaft for end and side-side play.



its also possible your waste gate is stuck.. ( some have wastegate some dont) you should be able to manually actuate the wastegate..

Cadillackid always with the clutch information. I actually got my blue fire boost guage to work and it gets up to 13-14 with high revs and almost no boost pressure at low RPMs. It definitely still feels and sounds lower then a few months ago.

I have an exhaust leak I know of that is down stream of the turbo. I’k I need to fix it but would a leak downstream of it cause any issues? TBH I’m sure my intercooler has some leaks. It was in very rough condition when I replaced the radiator I just haven’t got a new one yet. $1000 for a half size intercooler is a steep price.

If I’m getting up to 13psi boost would your assumption be a turbo issue or a small leak in the intercooler cause this?

 

[magnakansas]

Nnconn

Call me please. Talk pressure testing and intercoolers. I think I can help you.

7852077600

William

 

[nconn]

I was actually able to DIY pressure test it. Only up to 5psi though as any higher and I was blowing my DIY cap off. Either way it held at 5psi.

Does anyone know what the 2002 dt466e HT should be getting for boost? For all I know 13 psi at hight rpm is correct. It just feels low to me. The manual I have says nothing about that.

 

[A3st]

Hi Folks,

I've got a 2005 International RE300 with a DT466E engine and MD3060 transmission.

We've drove from WA to NY and about half way through the trip I noticed we just didn't seem to have any power at all. I purchased a ScanGague to help try and diagnose the issue and found that it appears to be an issue with what I think is the turbo wastegate or\and actuator. When driving it, according to the gague I was only getting 1 to 3# of boost. I've taken it to now... three different mechanics 2 in MD 1 of which was an actual international dealer and one in NY. I can't get any of them to work on this damn thing, so I am guessing I'm going to have to try and figure it out myself.

I've got a video here on youtube showing what I believe to be the actuator failing to open the waste gate (

) I was just wondering if anyone happened to have any similar experience with this part failing? If so was it a simple actuator replace, or something a bit more like replacing the entire turbo?

:Thanx:
Thanks,
Jacob.

I have THIS ISSUE right now. Same clicking noise. There doesn't seem to be any answers online for this. Jacob seems not active on here anymore. Does anyone else have any feedback or suggestions as to what this clicking is? Wastegate not sealing? Actuator not getting the right electrical signal? My turbo was brand new Oct 2022 - 2 yr 4 months ago.

 

[ewo1]

I don't have your answer but in post #8 you will find a link for a turbo servicing training guide... If your turbo is sticking for any reason....problems occur.

Diagnosing Loss of Power

In need of some help from a few subject matter experts! My bus is a 2004 International 3000 series RE. The engine is a DT 466. Recently was driving down the road. My warning light came on and lost power briefly. After about a mile everything was normal. The weird part is when the light went...

www.skoolie.net

Does your turbo pass the bounce test?

 

[A3st]