Floating floor squeaks?

[TygerCub]

For those of you who built your floor by just laying (or floating) it over the surface without fastening it directly to the metal, how is that working over the long term?

• Does it squeak at all while driving? [/*:m:1gpm2zcg]
• Or make crinkle sounds while walking across it?[/*:m:1gpm2zcg]
• Did you attach your interior structures to it, or just to the wall?[/*:m:1gpm2zcg]

Everyone who has been asked has said the one thing they would do different is add more insulation 8) . With that in mind, I am putting 2 inches of foam on the floor (I'm only 5'4" and it's a 6'6" bus ). Today I am picking up the vapor barrier (probably roofing felt), the 2" foamular sheets will be ready for pickup on Tuesday, and the 1/2" plywood I can get anytime. My final flooring with either be the recycled bamboo (if I can clean the mold from the bottom), or a thin laminate. Total space taken will be about 3", depending on the final thickness of the top layer.

But with that much thickness, it seems to me it would be difficult to screw things securely to the floor, so I plan on attaching most items directly to the walls. That, however, brings back questions of squeaking while driving.

Since most items like the cabinets, closets and countertops are going to be no wider than 24", should I frame out that 24" area and sink the foam and flooring between the framing? That would give a more stable surface for the interior build, but would also create a thermal bridge that the foam is supposed to eliminate. I feel like I'm over-thinking this, but I really don't want to find myself saying, "I wish I had done this" later while traveling down the road. :?

 

[chev49]

I think i am getting what you are trying to do... maybe not.. but i think that if i were raising the floor by 3", I would get something like 2x3's ( the widest side flat on the floor) and build an entire framework to put the foam in, and cover it with 3/4 plwyood.. That way, you could build anything anywhere you wanted and just screw it to the plywood.
I would use something like tyvek for a vapor barrier, and the flooring subfooring sheets or roll for the laminate flooring...

Just some of my thoughts...

 

[lornaschinske]

Floating floors are installed last. You install walls, cabinets & anything that goes thru the floor first. Floating floors still need to maintain a space between the flooring & anything they fit around for expansion. These gaps are covered with a trim mold.


PERSONAL OPINION ALERT!!!
I don't like the idea of a floating floor. I just always think what if I am in a wreck. What happens to the unattached floor. If I am cautious about the contents of my cabinets/refrigerator becoming a flying missile in case of an accident, why wouldn't I have concerns about a pile of wood laying in the floor? But I am a worry wart about some things.

 

[jkindt]

...I don't like the idea of a floating floor. I just always think what if I am in a wreck. What happens to the unattached floor...

A lot less than the carnage that happens when a sticks-n-staples unit gets into a wreck. :shock: I figure if I tip the bus over I am gonna be hit with a lot more than the floor, I can't imagine cabinet door latches will hold back the contents of your cabinets, drawers full of metal utensils, camping gear, and various other things that you just can't reasonably bolt down. Drive safe and keep the dirty side down. 8)

 

[lornaschinske]

...I can't imagine cabinet door latches will hold back the contents of your cabinets, drawers full of metal utensils, camping gear, and various other things that you just can't reasonably bolt down...

For starters, you would be amazed at what we have dreamed up to keep things tied down and secure. We have been too mobile, for too long, to not know how to tie things down.
As for the cabinet latches, this is what will be on ALL my cabinet doors and drawers (same colour... Black Nickel... don't you think it will look good on the turquoise paint with the glass tile countertops and embossed tin look backsplash??)...

These flush-mount push-knob latches lock doors securely. The door stays locked while the knob is depressed; press the knob once to simultaneously pop out the knob and unlatch the door.

They can be used on material from 15mm to 30mm (19/32" to 1-3/16") thick and are rated for 22 lb.

Knobs are a zinc alloy with a gold-plated, chrome-plated or black nickel finish, and are available with a black or white latch body.

Complete with instructions and mounting screws.

I have seen these latches up close and personal. They are not going to "pop" open. My cabinets will be "fitted" with interior swing out storage shelves that will latch in place as well. The front swing out shelves will cover the back shelves. Stuff from the back shelves will not get out of the cabinet unless the front swing outs open.

My base roll out shelves will have a barrel latch on each of them. My canned goods will mostly be in custom built rotators which limit their ability to come out of a cabinet (got my templates all drawn up... next I start tracing out and building them).

But like I posted above... it's a personal thing. I'm not wild about the idea of a floating floor. It ranks right up there with carpet. Besides the "unsecured" aspect, we stay in too many "dirt" campgrounds. We've pulled enough old carpet out to know what accumulated under it. I don't think a floating floor would be a whole lot different. I intend on gluing my floor covering down securely so it doesn't come up and so dirt does not get under it. Cleaning is not my "thing".

I'll stick with the Armstrong commercial tiles because it's MY bus.

You need to do what you feel will be best for YOUR bus. There is no one right way. I was just pointing out that a floating floor is not supposed to be secured in any way. And that means it will move. But lots of folks have put floating floors in their S&S RVs and are happy with it. If you don't like it, you can always pull it out. After all it's not got anything holding it down.

 

[chev49]

every room of my bus has a laminate designed for floating... and i glued it down,,, just like i did in my house several years ago.. which is still fine...

 

[lornaschinske]

I am one of the last people who would insist that you use something the way a manufacturer says. I have never figured out why a "floating" floor couldn't be glued down...except to sell the underlayment,etc which I think costs more than a can of glue. Back when the stuff first came out, folks were gluing it down and we knew someone (actually several) who had a floor disintegrate. We heard the glue weakened the "engineered wood" backing. We thought it was just a garbage product. David can lay solid hardwood floors flush enough that you can get away with using a hand sander on the floor. We don't like floating, engineered wood or laminate floors. And we will not install the stuff in our own place. Nor will we install wood floors either. Too much work to keep it looking good. And carpet just sucks.

Today, I will recess mount a surface mount florescent light (into the track above the door) and wire it up with a 12/3 extension cord and toggle switch. Next weekend, I will pick up a 10' vinyl gutter to cut in half to make a 5 ft sewer hose support. And you would be shocked at what we plan on doing with a cube fridge. :shock: And everyone knows that PVC pipe isn't just for plumbing! So do you think I do what others say to do? I do not expect others to do as I say either. What I do is put out info, usually based on my actual experience, and others can decide what to do.Like it says in my sig...This post is my opinion. It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose. I expect anyone who asks a question or gets advise on how to do something, will do some research on their own, from other sources other than this forum, and get enough info to make an informed decision based on their needs and wants.

 

[TygerCub]

This post is my opinion. It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

don't know about others, but I find your posts informative and interesting. Like the cabinet latch. Where do you find these cool things? Anyway, yeah, I'll do my own thing, but I do like reading other people's points of view. So keep it coming!

 

[lornaschinske]

... Like the cabinet latch. Where do you find these cool things?

I was in the cabinet business from 1979 thru 1997. I was a cabinet installer, custom laminate countertop builder, Kitchen & Bath Designer and owned a cabinet shop at various times during the 18 years. After that, David & I were involved in remodeling so I did a lot of searching for items needed. David ran two commercial cabinet shops... one while still in high school.

There's a lot of stuff available to commercial cabinet shops that you don't normally find available to the general public. And when the stuff does make it to non-wholesale outlets, it's usually to a very few geared to dedicated amateur woodworkers. For me now, the challenge is finding stuff I know is out there that can be bought without opening a commercial line of credit.

These three companies generally have what I am either looking for or am willing to use an alternative/similar item from. Unfortunately much of the stuff from Hafele is only available to commercial shops (darn it). But I can build anything that is made of wood (like the peg system)
www.rockler.com
www.leevalleytools.com
www.outwatercatalogs.com

Renovators Supply and Van Dykes Restorers are also great places to get ideas and some pricey stuff. But both have good sales and their stuff isn't junk. You can often find a similar item, albeit not an "authentic" reproduction for a lower price. Some times its not the same material but merely a finish (ie: not solid copper but a copper finish or not a real mica shade but a simulated mica shade). Try to get their catalogs... wonderful decorating ideas. Much of what you see is available in other finishes in cheaper places (like Home Depot/Lowes) but require a coat of paint to simulate the finish. Paint comes in so many metal finishes!

For example, I can buy the brass version of the push knob catch in many places for quite a bit less than $22 but I want the black one (or rather the black nickel) as a copper version seems to not exist. Some finishes just cost more. Others are hard to find, like copper. I find I end up looking at aged bronze as a suitable substitute for aged copper. And even that is not available in certain things. So to get a black nickel version, I end up at Lee Valley.

 

[jkindt]

...As for the cabinet latches, this is what will be on ALL my cabinet doors and drawers...

Now those are some great looking latches, and they look sturdy too! 8)

 

[usmcbay]

Not sure about Floating floors so I won't chime in too much on that. However, this is what we did this weekend and I'm EXTREMELY satisfied with the Rub / Squeak results...

Method and Materials...

Rubber Floor Out (Smell Gone) - 1/2" Foam Board down and Aluminum Taped, 1/2" Plywood down and screwed in with 2 1/2" Self Tapping screws, Solid Bamboo Floors glued down with Tile Glue... Do Not... waste your money on "Bamboo Glue".

All Plywood was gaped 1/8" between sheets and 1/4" from the walls and wheel wells to eliminate the possibility of squeaking later on! All Gaps were then filled in with Tile Glue as we lay the Bamboo floor down. Bamboo planks were also gaped 1/4" from any metal.

Driving around we had no Squeaks (Woo Hoo) and No Movement...

Warning: When using tile glue prepare for extreme stickiness everywhere and all over every tool no matter how careful you are! It's aggravating but just part of it!

 

[chev49]

Floor looks good. thanks for the pictures.
I have that color in my bathroom.. each room in my bus has a different color of wood flooring.

 

[usmcbay]

Floor looks good. thanks for the pictures.
I have that color in my bathroom.. each room in my bus has a different color of wood flooring.

I found Solid Bamboo for $1.59 at a Warehouse Sales place here in Houston. I was floored!

 

[keith-SKO]

How much longer we going to go on about the floor ???????let mover on to some new stuff,gezzzzzzzzzz two wks on this matter,i like to read about new things evey two days or so,it getting like the tire presser thing,,,on & on learn from your mistakes and move on....

 

[TygerCub]

...gezzzzzzzzzz two wks on this matter,i like to read about new things evey two days or so...

Um... Dude, didja read the title of the thread? It is dedicated to floor squeaks. And have you read Lorna's posts about cabinet stuff? That's different. And I'll post new stuff on my build thread as soon as I finish loading the videos up to YouTube. So that will be different too.

learn from your mistakes and move on....

Not everyone learns the same. I like to think and analyze as much information as I can before moving forward. I design, build, and redo something in my head countless times before ever cutting the first piece of wood. Every piece of advice, every experience others share, adds to my ability to make better decisions about my build. Hell, I'm even reading as many of the older posts as I can find. I'm sure others do the same.

Got anything to add? I'd appreciate yet another person's input. If not, there's an entire forum full of 'different' stuff for you to read. Don't let us hold ya back.

 

[keith-SKO]

i don't mine the discussion on an item,its when uall discuss the same thing over ,over again,,,like the tire presser it went on for two wks on the same thing,it great to learn things,but .....its a moveing thing and i would not put a floating object in a moveing thing,nail or glue it,its like putting a fish tank in a wagon and hope it stays

if some one said not to do it,than don't do it,,,end of discussion..............................three days is ok,but two wks on the same thing....i see this floating floor thing going on for that long,,,,,,

 

[TygerCub]

So don't read the post. Easy.

 

[chev49]

The discussion is just floating back and forth... hasn't gone out to sea yet. You have to wait until the tide turns...

 

[Accordion]

It is wise to use screws or nails on a floating floor. That's why I screwed my shoes onto my surfboard.

 

[SeanF-SKO]

Personally I would install it without fastening it to the subfloor. If you do get squeaks or other unpleasantness you can always nail/screw it down as needed.