Flooring questions

Tool Amour

Advanced Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2012
Posts
49
I'm getting ready to lay some flooring on my new plywood floor. Spent an hour at Home Depot looking at vinyl tile, linoleum, indoor-outdoor carpet. The lady helping me was convinced that self-stick tiles wouldn't take the heat, nor would linoleum. I could use the carpet, but I just don't want carpet on the floor.

I ended up buying the self-stick tiles, a can of contact cement, and some brass threshhold nails.

Does anyone have any recommendations for glue that will work with the self-stick tile? This isn't cheap tile, but I have no doubts that it will come up with the heat.

I saw some non-stick tile but NO WAY do I want to deal with that in the bus--been there done that, and it's obnoxiously messy and nearly impossible to lay without getting glue everywhere or having the tiles separate and leave huge gaps.
 
What heat are you talking about? I think in my bus i can walk on the floor even without shoes on...
Course when in Alabama, we dont ever wear shoes.... :D
 
Tool Amour said:
I'm getting ready to lay some flooring on my new plywood floor. Spent an hour at Home Depot looking at vinyl tile, linoleum, indoor-outdoor carpet. The lady helping me was convinced that self-stick tiles wouldn't take the heat, nor would linoleum. I could use the carpet, but I just don't want carpet on the floor.

I ended up buying the self-stick tiles, a can of contact cement, and some brass threshhold nails.

Why the contact cement with self sticking tiles?
Many of the bus-nuts here have laid vinyl down on the floor without problems........ but they had sealed, and insulated the floor before putting it down.
Ask questions.... Before you go out and spend a bunch of cash..
 
Why the contact cement with self sticking tiles?
Many of the bus-nuts here have laid vinyl down on the floor without problems........ but they had sealed, and insulated the floor before putting it down.
Ask questions.... Before you go out and spend a bunch of cash..[/quote]

I laid this tile in my bathroom a few year ago and was less than impressed with the sticky-ness of the tiles. We ended up using tiny copper-covered nails in the corners to assist the sticky, but they also look nice.

I thought of contact cement since it seems to stick to everything and hold it. If someone has tried it and it doesn't work, then hopefully they will chime in and say so.
 
At my last job I used a lot of Henry 422 Tile Adhesive to lay down vinyl tile. Good stuff. The tile we were using wasn't self-stick so not sure whether the two adhesives will play well together. If I was laying down vinyl tile I would use the standard, non sticky backed stuff and glue it down with the Henry 422.
 
Just curious why not snap together laminate? Cheap.... easy.... durable....and another layer to the floor?
 
I used a "Trafficmaster Allure" floating floor that stuck to itself along the edges in both the bus and in my home. I'm extremely satisfied with the results of both and they were very inexpensive ($1.80 to $2.10 per sq. ft.). The flooring is very durable, comes in a variety of colors, and looks like wood, or tile. In the house, I have a dog who loves to track mud inside, but the floor can take it. In the bus, during construction I've been dropping nails, wood, shelf brackets, tools, etc, and yet the floor still looks great - can't find a ding in it yet. :D

If you haven't started installing your self-stick stuff yet, I'd highly recommend the Allure stuff instead.
 
Tool Amour said:
... I saw some non-stick tile but NO WAY do I want to deal with that in the bus--been there done that, and it's obnoxiously messy and nearly impossible to lay without getting glue everywhere or having the tiles separate and leave huge gaps.

We put the glue down commercial tile in our pop-up. It did so well in the various dirt & gravel campgrounds in the 10+ years the flooring was down that we will use it in the bus. We lived/camped in FL, GA, NC, SC, TN & VA. Floor held up well to the heat (100°F and up to 125°F) and the cold (into single digits). And I didn't have huge gaps. I'm the one who put the floor in. We ripped the non-stick stuff out of the food cart when it came up in 90°F heat. Never again.
 
I second the "Allure Trafficmaster". I install it regularly in the houses I build / renovate. It has all the ability's of the commercial tile, with the look of hardwood. Extremely tough, its used here in our Wal mart, and our Safeway grocery store. I lay down a layer of 6 mil plastic for a vapor, bug, smell, ect barrier, and install it on top as a free floating floor. It cuts easily with tin shears, and lays fast. Way quicker and easier than laminate flooring. The Trafic Master is the best of the Allure products, with the thickest wear layer, and a 25 year warranty. I install it in bathrooms, kitchens, and mostly basements.

Nat

Posted for educational purposes only.
 
I also used the Allure vinyl plank flooring. But rather than let it float, I stuck it to itself (as it is designed to do) and then used liquid nails to glue it to my plywood floor. It looks great (people often mistake it for real wood at first glance), resists scuffs/scratches, and has not had any problems due to heat or cold. I have only had it in for a year or so, but I am very satisfied with it.
 
I hope this isn't too ridiculous a question but did everyone lay the flooring over the entire floor before framing in the rooms or did you cut around afterwards? Thanks.
 
What is the general opinion of putting in carpet over 1 inch foam insult boards. Wife is concerned wood will be too cold wintering in the northern States.
 
In my experience, the foam board will quickly mash down, loose its "R" value and make the carpet sag. How about a few wooley bear throw rugs to keep the toes warm but still retain the ease of care of the wood floor?
 
I had thought about that as well. I guess I'm looking for ideas on how to keep the floor as warm as possible during harsh winters. Seems like so many decisions and being such a newbie on conversion I'm reading everything I can find but still am worried about making costly mistakes.
 
We are planning on our bus to be dependable whether we are in the desert, in the mountains, or anywhere in between. So I really am trying to aim for a flooring that is both well insulated and versatile for so many places.

I have read a lot of good (and a tiny bit o' bad) about using rigid foam insulation. Most claim that rigid insulation will not "mash down", although a few people claim it will. I suppose this depends on the type/brand/what have ya of insulation and the weight/usage on top of it.

Is there a reason why some claim it "mashes down" while others claim the opposite? Is this related to the actual type of insulation or possibly even to much weight?

As of now, my mind is set on using 1/2" pink board between resin paper and 1/2" plywood or OSB... and finished with Allure Trafficmaster. All of these materials will remain floating. I am going to be prepping the metal floor beforehand by using a coating of Ospho, then covering the seat holes with flashing tape and the smaller screw holes with black silicon. As far as I can tell by researching, I should not have any issues with the insulation mashing down with the type of material I plan to use to fill by bus in with. It seems to be able to handle the weight loads I expect to have.

Has anyone else dealt with this happening in their flooring? What type and thickness of insulation did you choose and what may have caused it to happen?
 

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