flooring.

butcher_boy

Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Posts
20
Not sure if I psoted this in another post or what.
Looking for vinly flooring or other alternative to do my bus floor. Was looking at the homedepot stuff they had some nice products but my bus is going to be stored outside in the Arizona sun.
Thinking of doing the bus in bedliner or even paint with a sealer. any suggestions would be great.
One fellow told me to use a floating vinyl sheet. I checked the price and it only comes in 13 ft wide rolls. so I would have to pay double just to do my bus. (bus is 7.5 wide).. argh..
Thanks in advance,
brendan
 
John,
Did mine exactly like that. Built all the interior and then put the flooring in last. It uses less material, and yes it is a lot harder, but worth the effort. I also think that as we build and change designs from time to time, you may not want the whole bus the same flooring...might not coordinate with another area or theme if you should come up with one...and by the way...everything is easy to bolt to Crown's marine plywood :D :D :D
 
In retrospect I would have put my floor in before the conversion but 80% is visible either under bench storage or in the main areas. I would have used a diamond tread or coin pattern roll garage flooring. It comes in 7'6" wide rolls which would have made it very easy. My bus now has resilient garage flooring (allure from home depot) in a diamond tread pattern in orange. Search the threads for tailgating bus build and you can see it. Id prefer no seams and the price would have been the same to roll out the whole floor or use this product.
 
All!
Went to the floor store yesterday to look at the "floating vinyl sheet" the guy was telling me about. OMG this stuff is great! It is made by earthscapes and there are other brands made by armstrong etc. (available at HD @1.44 sqft). But i found the HD stuff is not as strong as the earth scapes. This is a free floating sheet, not glue required. I tested this product on a sample sheet (2 x 3) and threw it on a slick bamboo floor and this did not slide at all! further more I took my keys and tried scratching it. no luck. I was very impressed. I am going to get this stuff at $1.61 sqft. Problem is that it only comes in 13 foot wide rolls. :(
I was really, really impressed. You can found crimp and try to bend it out of shape and it goes back to laying flat with out a crease. neat stuff. I couldn't find any website info...or I would post link here.
GL.
-Brendan
 
Sorry don't really want to post another question about flooring when I already have this post going....
I am looking at rust proofing my floor. The steel looks to be galvanized but there are some spots of rust. Rustoleum products will not do well on Galvanized metal. (due to the oils in the metal that prevent the rust) I am looking at just a few spots maybe along the cracks(seams) and corners and where it meets the walls. So I am looking at doing a spray can style of rustoleum that is made for galvanized metals. My question is should I still sand the first layer of galvanized metal down past the oil prevention layer so the paint will stay better?
and is there any other thing I should do before I install my flooring. I will be using 1/8th diamond plate in the first 8 feet of the back of the bus and the rest will be the vinly sheeting (free floating).
thanks.
Brendan
 
I would just throw a wire brush in a drill and clean up the rusty areas with that before painting it. Doesn't need to look perfect, it is getting covered anyways. 8)
 
Sorry don't really want to post another question about flooring when I already have this post going....
I am looking at rust proofing my floor. The steel looks to be galvanized but there are some spots of rust. Rustoleum products will not do well on Galvanized metal. (due to the oils in the metal that prevent the rust) I am looking at just a few spots maybe along the cracks(seams) and corners and where it meets the walls. So I am looking at doing a spray can style of rustoleum that is made for galvanized metals. My question is should I still sand the first layer of galvanized metal down past the oil prevention layer so the paint will stay better?
and is there any other thing I should do before I install my flooring. I will be using 1/8th diamond plate in the first 8 feet of the back of the bus and the rest will be the vinly sheeting (free floating).
thanks.
Brendan

I have this same question! What did you end up using ?
 
Sorry don't really want to post another question about flooring when I already have this post going....
I am looking at rust proofing my floor. The steel looks to be galvanized but there are some spots of rust. Rustoleum products will not do well on Galvanized metal. (due to the oils in the metal that prevent the rust) I am looking at just a few spots maybe along the cracks(seams) and corners and where it meets the walls. So I am looking at doing a spray can style of rustoleum that is made for galvanized metals. My question is should I still sand the first layer of galvanized metal down past the oil prevention layer so the paint will stay better?
and is there any other thing I should do before I install my flooring. I will be using 1/8th diamond plate in the first 8 feet of the back of the bus and the rest will be the vinly sheeting (free floating).
thanks.
Brendan

Rustoleum makes a self-etching primer that adheres pretty well to galvanized metal; problem is it's only available in rattle cans and I think a floor would take a lot of cans. SEM self-etching primer is even better and is available in liquid form, although it's more expensive.

It's funny, the butcher shop in the town I grew up in was named "Butcher Boy" and they actually had a big neon sign in the window that said "You Can't Beat Our Meat". The shop was owned by an old man and his four sons and that had always been the place's slogan. When I asked about the sign his sons said "shh, we don't want to bother dad with that" and laughed - I think they were actually behind the sign.

Long gone now, of course. I can't even remember the last time I saw a standalone butcher shop anywhere.
 
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