Galvanized Pipe for Heater Hose?

porkchopsandwiches

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2013
Posts
347
Location
Maryland / Boulder
I took the rubber heater hoses out and shortsightedly threw them out while I was demoing the bus late last year. They were run inside the bus, on the floor. I want to run them underneath, could I use 1" galvanized pipe as a supply and return run underneath and then just rubber hose to connect to the heater core / block? Would this cause corrosion issues? I want to use metal because being under the bus it seems like it would be more durable than a dangling rubber hose. If the galvanization could be an issue (not sure if the inside of the pipes are galv or not) I could just use black painted natural gas line, which is just painted steel.

Thanks

JB
 
Im not positive but I think the coolant will react with the galvanized pipe. The coolant is developed to not react with iron in the block so its just MHO that the iron would be better. I know in gensets that are water cooled they say do not use galvanized pipe.

Chuck
 
I would use something plastic over the galvanized. The galvanized will loose pieces of the coating into your coolant system. That is bad for your engine.

1 inch pex inside a conduit pipe for support. Or the regular heater hose inside a conduit pipe for support.

One other member here did this, and I have been running trailer wires, hoses, ect through conduit pipe for years. It keeps the rocks, ect from chewing right through stuff.


Nat
 
My bus had galvanized pipe for some of the coolant connections for the heater core, even coming right outta the engine block. It was also used for tight 90° corners (hose-to-NPT adapter, 90° corner piece, NPT-to-hose adapter). The galvanized coating may have come off, but that's what the coolant filter is for. I'm guessing most of these engines have coolant filters... :) Also, the coolant filters usually contain an anti-rusting supplemental coolant additive. To add to that, if you're bus takes the red coolant for diesel motors, it too will contain an anti-rusting additive (as well as anti-cavitation additives. hooray!). I didn't think twice about using galvanized pipe when making alterations to the coolant plumbing INSIDE the bus.

I wouldn't, however, use it for a long run directly under the bus. Hose is lighter and malleable, thus takes vibration better, and it doesn't rust. You'd probably need to secure the pipe real well to avoid it clanking around under there. Underneath I'd be more concerned about the exterior of the pipe rusting than the inside of it.
 
jazty said:
My bus had galvanized pipe for some of the coolant connections for the heater core, even coming right outta the engine block. It was also used for tight 90° corners (hose-to-NPT adapter, 90° corner piece, NPT-to-hose adapter). The galvanized coating may have come off, but that's what the coolant filter is for. I'm guessing most of these engines have coolant filters... :) Also, the coolant filters usually contain an anti-rusting supplemental coolant additive. To add to that, if you're bus takes the red coolant for diesel motors, it too will contain an anti-rusting additive (as well as anti-cavitation additives. hooray!). I didn't think twice about using galvanized pipe when making alterations to the coolant plumbing INSIDE the bus.

I wouldn't, however, use it for a long run directly under the bus. Hose is lighter and malleable, thus takes vibration better, and it doesn't rust. You'd probably need to secure the pipe real well to avoid it clanking around under there. Underneath I'd be more concerned about the exterior of the pipe rusting than the inside of it.

Mine has 2 galvanized pipes running full length mounted under the bus
 
Don't count on the tried and tested. More like cheap and got the job done. None of the galvanized pipe came from the engine and chassis manufactures. It was installed by the coach company.

Also, I have only seen one out of 500 buses that had a coolant filter. I feel all water cooled closed loop engines should have one.

The fist thing to get worn out from abrasive particles in your coolant will be your water pump. If you feel changing parts is no issue, go for it.

I won't use it. Even for gas and propane installs we use regular black iron. No galvanized.

Nat
 
Outside the bus? That sure is going to defeat the purpose of having hot water heat when its cold.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top