Gilligan Phantom (1987 Gillig Phantom School Bus Full Time Conversion)

I've been following your progress on YouTube and only just now discovered your thread here. Your progress is inspiring! I'm definitely going to be taking a page or two out of your book regarding the window sealing. I'd hate to have some leaks because of the windows, so I believe more effort to take car of that earlier on is best.


Keep up the good work, cannot wait to see more of your progress!
 
Sorry I'm neglecting you guys here. As you can see I laboriously make Youtube videos documenting our build. As I learn how to make videos...I forget how to write. And so it is for millenials like me.

In this video Nate and I trimmed out all of the windows in plywood, did some prep for the kitchen cabinets, and glued the ceiling seams together which isn't a perfect solution, but it brings it closer to the look I was going for. Close enough!

 
So the plan is to install two 12K BTU Minisplits: https://amzn.to/2VppXuM I've yet to decide where exactly to put the outdoor units. In this video I hastily mounted one of the outside units on the back of the bus above the rear window. I quickly realized however that the rack I used does not seem sufficient. For now it sits up there till it starts to get hot and I reconsider where to mount it.

 
Good call on ditching that support bracket. If it moves while sitting still...how long would it last going down a bumpy road?


And, don't feel bad. The old rod builders rule is that it usually takes three tries to get anything right on a custom build.


Personally, I'd weld up a really stout steel frame then add some fairly stiff vibration dampeners between it and the A/C.


Best of luck on the re-do. No biggie.
 
Last edited:
I also bought the mounting bracket you did and saw the same problem once i got it. They are fine for non-mobile use but I had the same thought and realized after the first big bump it would probably be falling apart. Instead, I used these brackets to mount the condenser under the bus.

Buyers Products Company24 in. Underbody Tool Box Bracket Kit

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Buyers-...erbody-Tool-Box-Bracket-Kit-1701011/204589692

It's solid down there. I bolted superstrut/unistrut across the brackets (perpendicular to the brackets) and bolted the condenser to the unistrut. They sell shorter versions as well. (18" I believe).

I skipped the vibration dampeners due to hight issues under the bus. Hasn't made much of a difference. There is a slight vibration you can feel when it turns on, but not really noticable once your used to it. Make sure to use lock nuts or lock washers when bolting it together.

Bus is looking great!
 
Last edited:
I love the shape of that bus! Any idea of mpg on a long trip? The engine in your bus is known for lasting a million, but I don't know how efficient it is. Also, what is the gvw? I have read in places that it is close to 40k?
 
I also bought the mounting bracket you did and saw the same problem once i got it. They are fine for non-mobile use but I had the same thought and realized after the first big bump it would probably be falling apart. Instead, I used these brackets to mount the condenser under the bus.

Buyers Products Company24 in. Underbody Tool Box Bracket Kit

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Buyers-...erbody-Tool-Box-Bracket-Kit-1701011/204589692

It's solid down there. I bolted superstrut/unistrut across the brackets (perpendicular to the brackets) and bolted the condenser to the unistrut. They sell shorter versions as well. (18" I believe).

I skipped the vibration dampeners due to hight issues under the bus. Hasn't made much of a difference. There is a slight vibration you can feel when it turns on, but not really noticable once your used to it. Make sure to use lock nuts or lock washers when bolting it together.

Bus is looking great!
not the same application exactly, but - on our domestic water supply pump, the holding tank sits on a concrete floor and the small amount of vibration the pump makes causes an annoying rattle - by just using a piece of innertube between the pump motor and the bracket it attaches to reduced the rattle to zero
 
I'll have to catch you up on videos and progress but here's a spoiler: our bus isn't done but it's totally livable and we're now living in it! Check out our tour here:
 
You have done some really nice work.


I just have some comments to make.


Your hook ups and drains need to be on the driver's side for ease of using them. All RV camping/parking spots and all RV dumpsites are aligned with the hookups on the driver's side. Your waste tank drain would be better set up and would drain faster if you had an RV drain tank slide valve that would allow a three or four inch hose. Some drain valve caps have a standard hose fitting so you can drain using a standard garden hose instead of the large hose. The same can be said about shore power and city water--they are all set up to hook up on the driver's side.


I like the fact your emergency door is still working and allows access from the outside. When you are dirty and you have to go it would be nice to be able to get to the toilet quickly without traisping and tracking all of your dirt all the way through the house on the way to the toilet.
 
Where did you end up mounting the unit? They are surprisingly not very loud when running, though above my headboard would not work. I love where I put mine, worked out perfectly with no issues. Takes up no room as it will be under a work bench.
 

Attachments

  • 20190620_162836.jpg
    20190620_162836.jpg
    75.3 KB · Views: 21
  • 20190621_141653.jpg
    20190621_141653.jpg
    87.3 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top