Got A Work Van On GovDeals Today!

Was surprised to see the Atl.United take a championship in their first season as a team. So what happened, because this year they suck.
 
Was surprised to see the Atl.United take a championship in their first season as a team. So what happened, because this year they suck.

I don't follow MLS as much, but Atl have a pretty strong team from what I've heard. Atlanta has always been a strong soccer city. I learned to play up in Ga at summer camp. My councilor was the University of GA goalkeeper.
Kids up there even have indoor soccer!
 
Yanno, I coulda resisted, I dinna wanna!
Ahttps://images.app.goo.gl/wCE7vhS5qePHRFVB9
Is it me, or is Bobby Hill a little young to be interested in cougars..? [emoji848]
 
so the fuel injection has been in open loop safe mode since I got the truck. No cat, no O2 sensor. No smog, egr, or any of that stuff.
Looks like the block was replaced with a reman/crate and I can't find any engine #'s.
Looking to add an O2, swap the throttle body for a rebuilt one, and get the computer reflashed. I'm going to have them program it for a 180* thermostat, too.
 
Wow. That is interesting. Does it give an engine light warning? Do you need the emission stuff for florida inspection? How much worse is the mpg in open loop?
 
Wow. That is interesting. Does it give an engine light warning? Do you need the emission stuff for florida inspection? How much worse is the mpg in open loop?

mpg's are around 12-ish. Still better than our old van.
No inspections here, or in SC where the truck came from.
There would be a warning light but the bulb was removed lol.
Some redneck guys actually just run these in open loop. But I'm going to get it back to 100% or better.

It will need an O2 sensor!
 
you dont need to use a new chip to run closed loop .. they go into closed loop at 160f so a 180 T stat will be fine. , O2 sensor and you may need a resistor to fool the EGR's 3rd pin if it has a 3 pin connector.



these ECMs i didnt think were flashable.. for these i always burned E-prom's with new timing and fuel tables.. I used to download the hex files and edit them.. wow i wonder if i still have all the stuff i used to hack these... I know I still have my Burner and I think the VB6 program I wrote.. "yep back in the 90s I was building laptops into digital Dashes for hotrods... talking at a Whopping 160 Baud to the ALDL port of the ECM..."
-Christopher
 
you dont need to use a new chip to run closed loop .. they go into closed loop at 160f so a 180 T stat will be fine. , O2 sensor and you may need a resistor to fool the EGR's 3rd pin if it has a 3 pin connector.



these ECMs i didnt think were flashable.. for these i always burned E-prom's with new timing and fuel tables.. I used to download the hex files and edit them.. wow i wonder if i still have all the stuff i used to hack these... I know I still have my Burner and I think the VB6 program I wrote.. "yep back in the 90s I was building laptops into digital Dashes for hotrods... talking at a Whopping 160 Baud to the ALDL port of the ECM..."
-Christopher

Yeah that's how they do it.
 
you dont need to use a new chip to run closed loop .. they go into closed loop at 160f so a 180 T stat will be fine. , O2 sensor and you may need a resistor to fool the EGR's 3rd pin if it has a 3 pin connector.



these ECMs i didnt think were flashable.. for these i always burned E-prom's with new timing and fuel tables.. I used to download the hex files and edit them.. wow i wonder if i still have all the stuff i used to hack these... I know I still have my Burner and I think the VB6 program I wrote.. "yep back in the 90s I was building laptops into digital Dashes for hotrods... talking at a Whopping 160 Baud to the ALDL port of the ECM..."
-Christopher

From my googling it seems the egr doesn't do too much and if I send off the chip or whatever they'll delete the egr part of the programming.
Its either running too rich or has a leaky injector. Its a PITA to start on a really REALLY hot day.
Have you ever changed out the cam on one of these? Seems that and the heads are the real limiting factors for making power and running efficiently.
 
ive built small block 350;s from the ground up.. some were mild, some were wild..

you can make it high performance if you want.. the stock bottom end takes a decent amount.. heads cam intake is the standard affair for small block chevy to get you feeling the juice.. first in order is to get yours running correctly.. and yeah EGR delete is a nice mod.. EGR can help with detonation as it helps to cool the cylinders.. that said I built the engine, timed it, fueled it, and aired it correctly so i didnt need EGR to keep detonation in check..





what year is that again?


on the 87-up blocks the cams are factory roller and require a Biull-nose camshaft vs the standard on pre-87 blocks..



the sluggishness is often the computer in open loop mode..
 
ive built small block 350;s from the ground up.. some were mild, some were wild..

you can make it high performance if you want.. the stock bottom end takes a decent amount.. heads cam intake is the standard affair for small block chevy to get you feeling the juice.. first in order is to get yours running correctly.. and yeah EGR delete is a nice mod.. EGR can help with detonation as it helps to cool the cylinders.. that said I built the engine, timed it, fueled it, and aired it correctly so i didnt need EGR to keep detonation in check..





what year is that again?


on the 87-up blocks the cams are factory roller and require a Biull-nose camshaft vs the standard on pre-87 blocks..



the sluggishness is often the computer in open loop mode..

Its an 87. Its supposed to be a flat tappet non-roller but its drilled and all that for a roller cam. Just the trucks didn't get roller cams. Even up till 95 they were flat tappet. Since the engine only has 4k miles I want to keep the mods as mild and bolt on as possible. I'll be looking for a "computer friendly" flat tappet cam. Something good from around 1000 rpm up to maybe 5000.
Looking into vortec heads vs aftermarket tbi type heads.
As you've said- I plan to get it running and tuned correctly, then do a few mods as time and money permit.
 
I'm high bidder on a pretty nifty generator/welder-
https://www.govdeals.com/index.cfm?fa=Main.Item&itemid=744&acctid=5154
Seems like a decent deal to me if it stays cheap.

5154_744_1.jpg
 
YEah I let the old rusty generator/welder go.
Bid low and bid often, right?

Changed the oil in the firetruck today. It had just shy of 2000 miles but I have a ton of oil sitting around and its summer so I decided I'd see how it looks and do a quick change.
 
I think it's $100 past his bid, and still 2 days to go.
Sold for $1,000.

I've got a keyword search for Govdeals looking for a diesel genny. It rarely comes back with anything and when it does, it's a John Deer instead of a genny.
 

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