Gus the Bus Build Thread

That's a better use than sending to a scrapper for sure, but I didn't have the luxury of keeping it around (I can't keep my bus here, either..haha)

Does anyone know how to remove those side panels? I was thinking of just cutting them around the wheel well and close to the ground for easier access behind them. The front ones have no bar across the top, but all of the others do and I can't even stuff insulation into it as-is. I have some other build threads open with busses similar to mine, and will look into them when I can...I might just focus on getting the rest of the bus painted because it is pretty sunny today.

I've also been charging my battery all week and am 98% sure the source of the buzz was the vandal lock...about to go inside and confirm, and even try to start it....the suspense is killing me :) I hope it starts!
 
hmmm newbie here,...not sure how to continue following this post other than perhaps by commenting. I hope you get your answer to the side panel question. Anyway, contemplating getting a shorty and trying to learn as much as I can so thanks for the pics/questions and sharing.
 
In the future, near the top:
Thread Tools -> Subscribe to this thread (mine says unsubscribe). I think comments just automagically subscribe you. It's still nice to hear from you though! Are you in Canada or the USA? Getting this short was a great decision but if you can't find enjoyment in the work, I would think carefully. For me, I was excited to get my hands dirty, learn some construction stuff, and create my own home! It was part of the draw - and part of the reason I didn't buy a pre fab.

Anyways...as I just posted in my "Bus won't start thread":

The bus runs!!! It was the vandal lock in the back that made the buzz. I can confirm this 100%.

So that prevented start initially, then while trying to fix that I must have killed the battery somehow (lights, buzz, probably not a short cause its great now). Then it would crank because maybe the battery was too dead to buzz. Last week my dad figured out it was the vandal lock and then we charged the battery all week until yesterday. It was now reporting 14 volts instead of less than 8. And then we connected it to another car battery just for extra power. It went up to ~16 volts I think.

And it started right up on the first try.

Guys, thank you so much for all of your help and support! The existence of these forums eases so much of my worry... <3

GusRunsAgain.mp4
 
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Awesome! What are your dimensions behind the front seats and your emergency door? I'm looking at E350s myself
 
The North York area is where I work...I have 2 places to stay (one in Hamilton and one in Toronto), but I think I'm technically homeless. Soon, the bus will be my home :)

@Fireratt, you want the dimensions of the side emergency door opening? I'll get them to you this weekend, or ask my dad to measure for you :)
 
Was looking at the rear hatch, the E350 I may get doesn't have a side ADA lift.
Thanks and good luck on your build, I enjoyed the pics and reading about your journey
 
Will come back with pictures and updates on my bus on-goings...but I wanted to just get back to Fireratt :)

I was just outside and measured the back door. It was about 33" inches wide and 4.5' tall. The area behind the drivers seat was 13ftx7.5ft and it was 76" tall in the center, and curved down to about 73" tall at the sides.
 
I will spend some time this week working on the design / layout of the bus and can post my sketches here for you guys to see and input if so inclined :)

It is becoming more important because when I insulate, it would be nice to know which windows I could possible remove or cover based on the layout.

I hope to post some pictures today of the progress since the last update. This weekend that just passed we managed to pull out all (except the driver's) ceiling panels! That was a PITA and 'getting mad' at the metal really helps...it required a lot of brute force. My air chisel sucked for the ceiling ones, so I used a hammer and crowbar mostly. Cutting the rivets a bit with an angle grinder to weaken them, then prying them off. I also tried drilling out centers but I broke so many bits and gave up on that method.

Future things on my mind are starting to source supplies for the electrical and water systems. AGM batteries likely, pure sine inverter, MPPT, Fuse Box, Outlets, light switches, something to add to side of bus to plug in to 'shore power' to charge batteries [maybe similar for 'shore water' if available would be nice to use, and this could be used to fill up the fresh/filtered water tank], PEX tubing for in-floor radiant heat, water pump, water heater, gray water tank, sink [possibly Japanese style vertical bathtub?], toilet seat + DIY toilet stuff, LED lights, and so much more :)
 
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Hey guys,

I made a collection of all of my photos so far with some captions and ordered them all the best I could...or felt like it haha :)

It's on Facebook but you can view it without an account at this link:
Facebook Album - Gus the Bus

We've almost got the floor all patched up and all of the ceiling panels off! Soon I'm going to get it towed to a mechanic for a safety (I can't legally drive it) and then paint up the inside with rust treatment. Then I'll probably begin framing and insulating :)
 
Hey guys,

I made a collection of all of my photos so far with some captions and ordered them all the best I could...or felt like it haha :)

It's on Facebook but you can view it without an account at this link:
Facebook Album - Gus the Bus

We've almost got the floor all patched up and all of the ceiling panels off! Soon I'm going to get it towed to a mechanic for a safety (I can't legally drive it) and then paint up the inside with rust treatment. Then I'll probably begin framing and insulating :)



Looking good! Thanks for the update photos.
Sandi


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys,

I made a collection of all of my photos so far with some captions and ordered them all the best I could...or felt like it haha :)

It's on Facebook but you can view it without an account at this link:
Facebook Album - Gus the Bus

We've almost got the floor all patched up and all of the ceiling panels off! Soon I'm going to get it towed to a mechanic for a safety (I can't legally drive it) and then paint up the inside with rust treatment. Then I'll probably begin framing and insulating :)

I am curious as to why you can't legally drive it. Towing it somewhere is going to cost the stars and the moon. If you can't drive it you should get someone else to drive it so you don't have to pay the tow bill.
 
I can't legally drive it because it has no insurance. I can't get insurance atm because my intended use is a motorhome, and it is not titled as a motorhome. The alternative is insuring it as a commercial vehicle for personal use at about $4800/yr.

It is at the mechanic's now (and was towed, I didn't want to take the risk driving it) being safetied. Once it is safetied, I should be able to retitle it and then once it's retitled I can get an appraisal. Once it is appraised, I should have an easier time getting the insurance policy.
 
I just got some bad news that I wanted to share. Haven't talked to the mechanic or anyone else yet (including Google).

Basically, got the bus towed to a mechanic on Monday (March 13th) for a safety. He comes back to me today with a $1600 invoice not including tax AND tells me that the bus cannot be safetied. WHAT?! He says the exhaust manifold has a hole in it and needs welding, and that my floor repairs were not up to spec. He said the manifold would cost more than the bus to replace. So quite possibly my only option is to find someone to fix this via some welding.

In his email, he said:
'The attached report shows required safety repairs. The total on the report doesn’t add the parts or taxes. The repairs done to the floor do not comply with the National Safety Standards which state any floor repair must be structurally sound. In other words, it needs to be as strong as original. Same or heavier gauge of steel welded & sealed.
The other big concern is the r/s exhaust manifold leaks. Someone has already tried to weld up a hole in the manifold, there is other holes and leaks. Replacement would cost much more that the bus is worth & we will not weld the manifold here. So unless you arrange someone to repair the exhaust leaks, we cannot continue.'

The larger components in the invoice:
REPLACE DRAGLINK, R/S TIE ROD END, SET TOE-IN & REPLACE
SWAY BAR BUSHINGS $451.50
DS80784 DRAG LINK $237.99
ES3202R RT/OTR TIE ROD $136.50

Plus $200 flat safety fee +$50/tire (I have 6).

Hopefully just a small hurdle in the grand scheme of things!
 
The gasket manifold work should be getting done this Friday! I hope to be posting some good news soon :) the number one variable is whether or not the bolts break. If they don't, the replacement is much easier. If they do....well, then it will be a pain in the rear :)
 
whenever I take exhaust manifold bolts loose i tend to use heat or impact if you can either use an impact gun or tap on the wrench wit ha couple pound hammer..

Heat is a little risky if you have aluminum heads.. if your heads are iron the likelihood of bolt breakage is a bit less.. at least from my experience.. patience is a must if using heat...

ive not use heat and impact.. ive always felt that the heated metal would be weak enough that impact might break it.. others who have removed pesky exhaust bolts can chime in.. its a bit of an art... ive had pretty good success at not busting them over the years..

-Christopher
 
crap......hope things are looking better now . I'm keeping my eyes open for a bus but that cert is important to get done on their end first I suppose. Maybe a good reason for me to be thinking a fairly recent year. Right now I have my eye on a 2005 E350 diesel....it's a church bus in navy blue....only 106K km.....the price is great considering buy yeah.....I should wait until a mechanic checks it out.

I can't believe $4500 a yr for insurance......that's nuts. My cars are around $1000 per yr ( I don't get collision because they're not worth it )…..keep me posted.....Toronto -ish guy here too .
 

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