Hello friends!

[PorchDog]

It has to turn 100 RPM to start, and the glow plugs MUST work. These have Ricardo Comet precombustion chambers, so the injectors spray into these chambers and not directly into the combustion chamber like a Cummins. To my recollection, these used a glow plug controller that screwed into the water jacket at the back of the engine or intake manifold. It has a large round plug that connected to it. These would go bad, some times they would work when very cold, and not when luke warm, or maybe fail altogether. Folks would try to work around the controller (because it was expensive) and install push button switches to manually control the glow plugs, and that usually resulted in burned out glow plugs.

With good batteries and properly functioning glow plugs it should start fairly easily. This is all from what "I think" I remember.

And I may be mixing 6.2 stuff with 6.5.

You can absolutely fry a starter, and ruin batteries with no glow plugs.

 

[Thurmond1317]

Interesting. This bus has glow plugs that are wired to a switch. I remember asking what the switch did when buying the bus but it was also a pretty warm day so wasn't needed to turn the engine on. He made it seem like these were fragile and would break if left on for more than a few seconds. So I haven't touched them. Is there a specific way I should use them so I don't ruin the plugs or engine?

 

[Albatross]

Interesting. This bus has glow plugs that are wired to a switch. I remember asking what the switch did when buying the bus but it was also a pretty warm day so wasn't needed to turn the engine on. He made it seem like these were fragile and would break if left on for more than a few seconds. So I haven't touched them. Is there a specific way I should use them so I don't ruin the plugs or engine?

They will burn up and stop working if left on for too long, or if they get too hot, like on a summer day. On my 6.2L, this was tied into the "wait-to-start" function light on the dashboard. I'm not exactly sure where the controller is, or how it works, as I haven't had to dive into that part yet, but it should be left stock (and I'm not a guy that says that very often). If you're having problems with it, then it's most likely something like the wires or the plugs themselves. The plugs are fairly cheap, but at $8 a pop, and with 8 in the engine, it will run a bill up pretty quickly if you keep burning them out.



If they are already on a manual switch, I wouldn't use it for more than a second or two at a time, and even then only when it's around freezing. Maybe for one second when it's below 50°F, and two if it's below freezing. If you can't start it up pretty quickly after that, wait at least 30 seconds before trying to use the plugs again. The plugs glow like a light bulb, but they're used to generate heat to pre-heat the engine cylinders; if the first go around doesn't fire up right away, you want to sit and let some of that heat spread out and around inside the engine, and let the plugs cool down.

 

[PorchDog]

This is the earlier style glow plug controller that I referred to:


https://pensacoladiesel.com/product...Hpnc9avTpJYWWVHRhTwNof2F7dphMv1Z0g0mIGNxDEXeY


And this is the later style:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...TZW2xn9epSseUXOEkZPsiqhMl0uoR3PVT8jp8AgKv2kmF

 

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

most glow plugs that are controlled by a timer are usually about 10 seconds max on wait a minute then key on for about 10-seconds if it still struggles to start when its cold then maybe a heater under the oil pan to warm the oil up.

 

[Thurmond1317]

If they are already on a manual switch, I wouldn't use it for more than a second or two at a time, and even then only when it's around freezing. Maybe for one second when it's below 50°F, and two if it's below freezing. If you can't start it up pretty quickly after that, wait at least 30 seconds before trying to use the plugs again. The plugs glow like a light bulb, but they're used to generate heat to pre-heat the engine cylinders; if the first go around doesn't fire up right away, you want to sit and let some of that heat spread out and around inside the engine, and let the plugs cool down.

Ah okay, that makes sense. Nothing to be afraid of, just treat them with care. I'll give that a shot this weekend and see if any change in it's starting happens. I'm super appreciative of this forum because I can guarantee I wouldn't have even considered glow plugs a factor in starting the engine.

This is the earlier style glow plug controller that I referred to:
https://pensacoladiesel.com/product...Hpnc9avTpJYWWVHRhTwNof2F7dphMv1Z0g0mIGNxDEXeY
And this is the later style:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...TZW2xn9epSseUXOEkZPsiqhMl0uoR3PVT8jp8AgKv2kmF

I'll probably poke around in the engine bay and see what I can see this weekend.

most glow plugs that are controlled by a timer are usually about 10 seconds max on wait a minute then key on for about 10-seconds if it still struggles to start when its cold then maybe a heater under the oil pan to warm the oil up.

Yeah unfortunately it looks like they bypassed any timer when they did the engine swap. I hope I won't need a heater to start this bus every time, that would be somewhat annoying. But if it works it works.

 

[nikitis]

My engine has been starting Soooo easily the last few months and this morning, didn't want to start. What changed? Temps.

It got cold. Yours is likely doing the same. The glow plug situation is true. Crank once, when it fails, let off for 30 seconds, then try a second crank.

This is the way.

I also have a engine warmer I could plug in built into my bus by the previous owner. I need to try this out this winter and see how it does.

 

[Thurmond1317]

Missing Bolt and Layout

Yeah I just never realized how much cold could affect an engine like that. I have also recently discovered that the starter is missing the support bracket that keeps the bell housing from splitting in two so the bus is down again. In the meantime though I've been visualizing some layout options to at least have something I can manipulate versus the floorplan drawings I previously had.

There are 2 designs so far. V2 has the single futon, V2 has 2 futons.
Some of the things are measured, some aren't. Please let me know your opinions on the ideas. If they are dumb, let me know why because I'm new to this so I'm just doing what makes sense to me.

Notes about the designs:
The two toilets are to show its out and hidden positions
Most cabinets and walls on the drivers side have been removed for visibility purposes, but mimics the language of the passenger side.
Under the futons are flat slabs, those are to visualize the bed length(measured from website)
The bed up top, I plan to have raise and lower somehow. It would be all the way up during the day and only down when sleeping. The I'd like to be able to go on trips with friends hence the multiple beds but idk how practical it will be.
Gray box is a measured chest fridge.
I'm also learning how important it is to know what you are buying before building because a different fridge, futon, mattress will change a lot.
Black boxes are house batteries.

Once I start building, I'll add these to the build forum thread but I don't want to start that till I have meaningful progress to share.

 

[AlphaHare]

Personally, I like V2 better, but that doesn't really matter. You do you.

Build for the 90% use case, not the what if of friends staying over. 4 people in a short bus is tight - you'll be happier if your friends brought a tent. What they say about small (30 foot) sailboats: Drinks 6, eats 4, sleeps 2.

I'd also prefer a dinette to a side by side. I like sitting across for diner and planning sessions. Sit against the wall and stick your feet out. Table down could be a day couch or small bed.

From our RV rental experience - not having to make up the bed and convert it to something else is a big plus. Your lift does that. Check out some Sprinter websites and Youtubes for mechanism ideas.

 

[Thurmond1317]

You're right, it'd be great to travel with friends but how often will schedules really line up and the like. The more I think about it, V2 probably does make the most sense for my usage. It has a better place for the house batteries than under the futon and a dedicated spot for the monitor that I'll be using a lot for editing and work. Might make some edits to the table for more storage purposes. Also have updated the design to include actual walls. I didn't realize all my planned walls were an inch thick, so I changed that to 6in so they'll be more structurally sound and can hold switches and whatnot.

Having a lot of fun in this phase though seeing what works and doesn't.

 

[Thurmond1317]

My engine has been starting Soooo easily the last few months and this morning, didn't want to start. What changed? Temps.

So I finally had a weekend with no plans, rain, snow, or freezing temps and got the starter bracket installed. Not sure if it was the bracket, the temp(40s - F), or both but that was the easiest the bus has ever started. Took maybe 3-4 seconds and fired right up. Threw a ton of smoke but that cleared out as the bus ran.
You started yours recently?

 

[nikitis]

So I finally had a weekend with no plans, rain, snow, or freezing temps and got the starter bracket installed. Not sure if it was the bracket, the temp(40s - F), or both but that was the easiest the bus has ever started. Took maybe 3-4 seconds and fired right up. Threw a ton of smoke but that cleared out as the bus ran.
You started yours recently?

Yes in fact it's been in the 60's here and it started right up no issues. When it hits 50's for me is when it gives me troubles. It'll continue to start all summer with no issues on a dime.

When I used the engine warmer it would start up easily too. I still don't know exactly why because diesel doesn't congeal until the 40's.