Brad_SwiftFur
Senior Member
Update on our bus search. I have been speaking with a very nice gentleman who has a bus that clearly needs work but seems to be upfront about everything. It is one of the buses I sought everyone's input on already. It is this guy:
1987 MCI-9 40foot already started some conversions on it. https://buffalo.craigslist.org/rvs/d/mci-bus-conversion/6168637072.html
Here is a transcript of his last communication with me (please let me know if this is a pass or pursue situation, he is flexible on the price):
I never had a issue with this motor. I think it is rather strong. Blows smoke when you start it but not when you are running it. Detroit motors all leak oil and this does down the rubber drain lines but no major leaks anywhere.
The transmission had the lights come on a few times but has always shifted smooth. I was worried about the hills in PA but it took those very well.
I did have an issue with the fuel once. I went to get some fuel for a very short trip. The fuel gauge was never fully true and the speedometer only works when it rains (must need an alignment). Anyway the RV stopped as I pulled out of the gas station and quit. Luckily I was on a hill and rolled it back into a parking spot. I tried everything to get it to run. Called a road service and they sent out a kid to tell me he had no idea. They towed it 15 miles ($750) and had it in the shop for 5 days. Finally told me it lost the prime and had no fuel in the lines. The put a air hose in the tank to push the fuel into the motor. Charged me $1,700 for that. Oh I was pissed.
Well it happen again the next week. So I fixed it myself. I got 10ft of hose. Found an extra dead end line on top of the fuel tank. Took the fuel filters off next to the motor. Got on the roof and poured a couple gallons of fuel in the hose to gravity feed it the 30ft back to the motor - not pushing it with air. I heard the fuel hitting the pan under the filters and closed it up. Worked like a charm. Ever since I shut the tank lines off and park it nose up and starts every time. So might be an air leak in the fuel line but could never find it.
You have to remember this is a 30 year old machine.
Needs an air dryer for the front to level the bus out while riding = $300. It never bothered me when I drove it and you don't notice it that much.
The kneel function doesn't work and might be part of the air dryer?
Has a new lobe in the passenger rear side.
Brake pads = $1,000 - install is $1,500 to $2,000 probably.
Muffler could possibly be welded I'd think.
Windshield had a small chip but had it sealed.
Windows are all good and will give the RV windows that I bought for it = 4 windows at $150 each - $600.The standard bus windows in it now are $400 each x 14 windows = $2,000 worth of glass.
Drivers tag wheel seal is leaking and might need attention.
No rust except maybe in the forward AC area / is a small hole in the body under the passenger side door but very small. I can get you a picture of those areas.
No forward AC but the rear might be able to charge and might work.
Can't think of anything else we worked on or needed attention.
So far I'm not seeing anything I wouldn't expect from a 30 year old coach. The old 2-stroke Detroits were known to leak a little and as long as you leave 'em be, they'll run trouble-free. The fuel losing prime could be the driver allowing it to run too low, or an aging line allowing air to get it, it's hard to know without further investigation. The fuel gauge and speedometer should be relatively easy fixes (I believe many coaches have electronic speedometers going back to the 70's). The air dryer will likely need some love, too. This is a somewhat common failure item if neglected and will be a cause of air loss if/when it does (oil and grease gum up the inner workings if the air dryer filter is not serviced regularly).
Two things I would at the very least check before driving it any distance. I'd check the brake lining thickness, and the oil in the wheel hub. You do *NOT* want to drive with a "dry" bearing, and even more importantly you do *NOT* want to drive on excessively thin brakes. The bearing can be topped off rather easily (to address the seal later) but you'll need a pretty big jack and wrench to remove the tires to service the brakes. Some have backing plates which make it difficult to check the lining thickness, some don't. You'll want at least 3/8" of brake thickness (and even that's getting thin, I believe the minimum is about 1/4"); new shoes are about 1" brake thickness.
If the A/C hasn't been converted to R134 then you'll probably want to do that. The R12 it likely has/had is no longer in production and is hard to find and expensive if/when you do. A conversion will probably be cheaper than the cans of R12 it would need to service the system - and you'll be able to service it in the future.