Help removing 1/4" Huck Rivets

[Q'willWorks]

Hi all,

Looking to remove wall brackets that mounted the seating that have since been removed.

Found the video below. Punched out centers just like the guy said but it does not loosen anything! HELP!

Also, I want to know if the floor grate should just be covered when installing new floor.

Any help is welcome.
:Thanx:
F

 

[EastCoastCB]

Try an air chisel set. the pointy one will knock those out real quick.

 

[Brewerbob]

The rivets don't fall out of the ceiling when you push the pin back in. You don't even have to push the pin but it does make life easier. Like ECCB said, air chisel is your friend. The air gun and chisel are cheap if you have access to a compressor. The pancake compressors won't do. Mine is a 15 gallon and runs constantly but removing the rivets by hand is a total PITA. I did a dozen or so while standing around waiting for the air gun while someone else was using it. Good workout but there are less painful ways to kill yourself.

 

[jazty]

If those rivets are aluminum and you don't mind scuffing the surrounding area then try a flap disc on an angle grinder. 60 grit will knock those heads off in a second, then you can pry the pieces up.

I tried drilling, chiselling (w/ and w/o air chisel), grinding and flapping. I like the flap wheel the best.

 

[Brewerbob]

If those rivets are aluminum ... a flap disc on an angle grinder. 60 grit

The AL doesn't clog up your flapper wheel? Even with 60 grit I would think it would.

If you REALLY don't care, use 16 grit. :biggrin:

 

[jazty]

The AL doesn't clog up your flapper wheel? Even with 60 grit I would think it would.

If you REALLY don't care, use 16 grit. :biggrin:

I don't think it did.. It's possible that the rivets were steel, actually. It's been so long now Whatever they were composed of, the flap discs ate them up swiftly!

 

[EastCoastCB]

Probably steel. I doubt they'd use the wrong rivets at the factory. And aluminum would be wrong for a steel bus.

 

[Brewerbob]

Probably steel. I doubt they'd use the wrong rivets at the factory. And aluminum would be wrong for a steel bus.

I dunno, I thought the ones below the windows were AL. They came out easier than the ceiling ones. I dunno if that's because they are slightly smaller or what. I have/had a magnet on the bus, I'll have to check.

 

[Skipoffools]

I found the easiest for me (I don't own air tools) was an angle grinder with a grinding wheel to grind down the head of the rivet till it was non existent, then a punch the center with a hammer and punch. Also if you can access from opposite side, get a cut off wheel cut it flush from the backside and punch the center out. Once you remove either side of the rivet it should loose its grip and come right out.

I tried drilling but I broke too many bits because the rivets are not flat in the center. And then there's good old elbow grease and a BFH, but I found that method to bend the sheet metal all up.

 

[mmoore6856]

I found the easiest for me (I don't own air tools) was an angle grinder with a grinding wheel to grind down the head of the rivet till it was non existent, then a punch the center with a hammer and punch. Also if you can access from opposite side, get a cut off wheel cut it flush from the backside and punch the center out. Once you remove either side of the rivet it should loose its grip and come right out.

I tried drilling but I broke too many bits because the rivets are not flat in the center. And then there's good old elbow grease and a BFH, but I found that method to bend the sheet metal all up.

and a lot of the rivets spin while drilling making drilling not a efficient solution also im on my 3rd grinder so seriously do not consider the cheap one and get a good one

 

[Brewerbob]

I tried drilling but I broke too many bits because the rivets are not flat in the center. And then there's good old elbow grease and a BFH, but I found that method to bend the sheet metal all up.

I got a few dozen done with a drill. I would NOT recommend that even with an unlimited supply of never dulling, never breaking, free drill bits. Just took too long.

A punch (I cheated with the air) would do. And I used a MFH instead of BFH. Regular old 16 oz (?) hammer. Probably took 30 seconds a rivet. A BFH would go faster for the first 20 rivets but then the arms would go to jello a whole lot quicker regardless of the sheet metal.

 

[Skipoffools]

and a lot of the rivets spin while drilling making drilling not a efficient solution also im on my 3rd grinder so seriously do not consider the cheap one and get a good one

I almost forgot, what a pain when they start spinning!

 

[Q'willWorks]

FYI I am a 130 pound female, and although I work out my arm strength is I am sure less than most men, even if they were my size. Needless to say I was finally able to cut the rivets in half then knock them off! What a pain. I got pretty good at it though and nearly felt like going pro. However, I decided against it! Especially when my husband came in to help for the last few rivets and it took him half the effort to knock them off! Demoralized!
Steel is strong, but not as strong as my will and determination. LOL Thanks for the replies!

 

[Q'willWorks]

I got a few dozen done with a drill. I would NOT recommend that even with an unlimited supply of never dulling, never breaking, free drill bits. Just took too long.

A punch (I cheated with the air) would do. And I used a MFH instead of BFH. Regular old 16 oz (?) hammer. Probably took 30 seconds a rivet. A BFH would go faster for the first 20 rivets but then the arms would go to jello a whole lot quicker regardless of the sheet metal.

Thanks for the reply. I used a punch and a hammer just like the video I found said. I saw another that showed a guy cutting them in quarters with a giant grinder. Since I am limited in the tools I have I used my Dremel with a metal attachment. It worked fine. As stated below it took me a LONG time to knock them off with a 1.5 lb hammer and a chisel screwdriver, but I got it done!
Indeed a pain in the who ha, but the satisfaction made my jello arm worth it.

 

[Brewerbob]

Since I am limited in the tools I have I used my Dremel with a metal attachment.

Glad it worked out for you but for the future toss that thing or at least only use it for fine detail/tight spaces. An angle grinder is less than $10 at Harbor Freight. Totally worth it even if it dies in 6 months. No issues with mine yet but then I have two. A Craftsman and the Harbor Freight. Big difference in heft but I've not bogged down the little cheapy yet.

 

[mmoore6856]

traded my second grinder back for another new one (not the cheapest) but stopped by a pawn shop and picked up another one for 10 bucks got about 400 out yesterday im doing the top of the bumpy metal under the window and the first row (spaced 2 inches apart) above the window i plan on tucking my steel under both and drilling the original rivet holes thru the new steel then using #12 x 1/2 in carriage bolts as from the outside they will look like rivets

 

[EastCoastCB]

FYI I am a 130 pound female, and although I work out my arm strength is I am sure less than most men, even if they were my size. Needless to say I was finally able to cut the rivets in half then knock them off! What a pain. I got pretty good at it though and nearly felt like going pro. However, I decided against it! Especially when my husband came in to help for the last few rivets and it took him half the effort to knock them off! Demoralized!
Steel is strong, but not as strong as my will and determination. LOL Thanks for the replies!

motivation is meaningless. It comes and goes. Its our DRIVE that keeps us going, through the thick and thin!
130lb female, huh?? You sound like modern day green beret material.

:whistling:


I like this one, when I need a bit of encouragement.

 

[golfersmurf57]

I'm gonna tuck my window covers too grind heads off the rivets but instead of time consuming carriage bolts also expensive try large head pop rivets from fastener supply house box of 100 or more $60

Sent from my LGL64VL using Tapatalk

 

[mmoore6856]

Got 600 12x1/2 plain steel carriage bolts and nuts for 12 dollars. Shop around. I will use locktite also

 

[Rusty-SKO]

Watch

Watch the fat guy busting rivets. Sharpen the chisel first (single bevel, slight relief).