How to floor driver area / entryway?

[MambaJack]

Been putting this off, looking for any tips.
Bus is an international 3800 front engine traditional nose.

Right now, I have 1.5" insulation and 3/4" subfloor from the back of the bus to the front that stops just behind the front heater and main door.

I don't think I have space to insulate under the heater.
Not sure if i should put more than 3/4 ply below the seat/seatbelt fasteners, or just build up around them.

The pedal is also pretty close to the floor and i don't know if insulation and subfloor would fit.

What does everybody else do?
Thanks!

 

[Njsurf73]

You can insulate underneath... Or make something that covers the floor and pedals while you are parked... Like a sheet of 1/4" ply with some rigid foam insulation you can easily move when it's time to move.
there are some automotive products that are used against the firewall that are pretty thin and flexible.
Underneath you could cut some closed cell foam and attach it to the floor boards, just don't use open cell foam (like great stuff) because it will waterlog and deteriorate.

Been putting this off, looking for any tips.
Bus is an international 3800 front engine traditional nose.

Right now, I have 1.5" insulation and 3/4" subfloor from the back of the bus to the front that stops just behind the front heater and main door.

I don't think I have space to insulate under the heater.
Not sure if i should put more than 3/4 ply below the seat/seatbelt fasteners, or just build up around them.

The pedal is also pretty close to the floor and i don't know if insulation and subfloor would fit.

What does everybody else do?
Thanks!

 

[Pizote]

Dynaliner and Dynamat are two products that will help. Also, in my CE300, there is already 3/4" plywood there and the seat is lifted another inch via a steel platform. I am in the midst of removing the platform, the plywood has already come out.

I will be putting thinner automotive insulation there along with 3/4" plywood and the steel plate. Should be the same height as before.

 

[cadillackid]

I found dynamat works great for noise but does about zero for heat insulation.. I know some people have curtains in front.. either that portion off the complete driver area or at l;east the windshield.. you lose far more heat from the windows and the bus door than you do through the small floor area upfront.



some change their bus door to a nice insulated RV door which seals much better than the bus door.... the firewall itself which starts vertical from just behind the pedals, you can automotive seam-seal all the little holes where wires, hoses, cables, go into the bus from the engine or front compartment.. this helps with air infiltration.. dynamat the bare metal an d then use automotive style insulation on the firewall itself.. a floor with plywood up in that small area wont be too bad..
-Christopher

 

[MambaJack]

Ah good ideas. Thanks!

 

[Rogue 1]

I’ve been thinking on many of my these same things. So far some type of cork product has potential for my drivers area. Last night I discovered that there is a cork tape product and there is a spray on product that is applied by professionals. I found the spray on stuff really interesting. It seems that it is only available in Canada and more recently around the US West coast.

I’m working on a 06 Thomas with the older body style . I’ve been contemplating the seatbelt bolts as well. I’d like to have a short piece of narrow pipe for each bolt with a flat plate attached. Then run the bolt through the pipe with the metal plate mounted flush with the finished flooring. If someone else knows of a good opinion I’d love to hear about it.

What have /are others doing for insulting the stair wells? I’d like to have the treads insulated the same thickness as the floor. This way each step rise will be the same. This is important to reduce tripping and stumbling.

I’d like to attach some ridged foam insulation on the outside of the stair wells. This would go on the stairwell sides and on the out side of the risers. I’d like to glue the foam to these outside parts.

How would one hold the foam in place while the glue set?
Would the foam need something over it to protect it? If so what and how to attach it?

I also have a raised platform the driver’s seat is mounted on. Only difference from the OP’s is that mine is about 4” in height. I’m working on insulating this small area of flooring from below. Using ridged foam here to, but it’s difficult due to poor access to this area.

Hope we can all find some good solutions with these issues.

Regards,

 

[plfking]

I’d like to attach some ridged foam insulation on the outside of the stair wells. This would go on the stairwell sides and on the out side of the risers. I’d like to glue the foam to these outside parts.

How would one hold the foam in place while the glue set?
Would the foam need something over it to protect it? If so what and how to attach it?

I would think you'd want to protect your foam.

Doesn't sound like you've finished the interior of the stairwell yet.......you could back your ridged foam with 1/2" or 3/4" treated (sealed) plywood, and run screws through the stairwell metal, through the foam, and into the plywood. That's what I was planning, but instead made my fabbed steps a little wider to allow the insulation to go on the inside.

 

[ComfortEagle]

Been putting this off, looking for any tips.
Bus is an international 3800 front engine traditional nose...

Glad your asking; I am currently working thru my plan for this very issue, and am interested to hear what others have done.

...some change their bus door to a nice insulated RV door which seals much better than the bus door...

"...nice insulated RV door...?" Pfft..."

"...seals much better than the bus door...?" Pfft... we'll see about that.

What have /are others doing for insulting the stair wells? I’d like to attach some ridged foam insulation on the outside of the stair wells...

First off please don't insult your stair wells; what have they ever done to you?

But seriously, my plan is to spray foam the underneath of my bus floor including the stair well. Much of the Gillig floor is protected from the elements by the storage bays. But for those areas, like the stair well, that are unprotected, my plan is to apply closed cell foam from underneath, followed by a generous coat of rubberized undercoating over the foam for protection.

 

[BusBus]

Posting from the pacific north west; in my recently (almost!) finished bus, I’ve insulated to high heck the main living space, with an insulated wall built behind my driver seat/cab/mud room, but left the cab stock. I have yet to install a door between the spaces, but with the winter weather VS me heating my living space, the condensation was HUGE in the cab. I’ve cut a piece of 2” styrofoam to fit tightly the door opening I have framed in (until I come across a real door to install!), and have been comin and going from my back door.... because of the extent of the condensation, I wasn’t feeling confident about my plan to isolate each area from each other, but, almost a week into this trial ‘insulated door’, it’s perfect. Toasty interior, ice cold porch/cab area, and NO condensation. Even where I was worried about thermal bridging at the ceiling.
��

 

[BoxGods]

I have the same model. My plan is to move the stairs back towards the middle of the bus to make room for a proper passenger seat and to add a structural wall with a door right behind the drivers seat. I will be using an insulated RV style door also.

 

[rustymetalgirl]

Firewall insulation for heat and noise

Hi. I’m a new member and still trying to make plans for conversion. I am wondering about firewall insulation for air leaks, and heat and noise transmission, not necessarily in that order. Was thinking about plugging holes for cables and hoses with some kind of putty/sealant designed for that purpose. Then a layer of kilmat or similar product on bare metal, followed by layer of heat shield foam/foil or cotton/foil. Then finish the front floor area with a removable (trimmed to fit) thick rubber mat (like a horse stall mat...?)

Not sure if that’s a good plan or not. Would appreciate any advice and comments and I have several specific questions:
1. Does anyone know what the temperature range on the inside metal surface of the firewall are likely to be? I have no idea if it would be in the 100-200 F range or even higher.

2. Does it make sense to do sound dampening beneath the layer for heat shielding? Seems kind of backwards, but the materials I’m looking at seem to indicate that would be the preferred method.

3. Can anyone tell me what particular products to consider for noise, heat and the putty like stuff to seal around penetrating wires/hoses? Everything I read on the manufacturers websites seems to just confuse me more, and some of them make claims that cannot possibly be accurate....

Not wanting to spend tons of $$$ (who does?!). This bus is located in Texas where heat is much more of a problem than cold.... also will be weekend use, not full time living.

Thanks in advance for any and all advice!