How to secure my bus?

Nerys

Advanced Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2018
Posts
42
I have horrible family. a lot of stealing going on. Going to try to get one in particular put in prison. stole my $4000 camera setup and pawened it for $400.


anyway. want to secure the bus. the rear door was pretty easy. drilled some holes installed abus hasp and lock.


SO. front door. problem with the front door is not locking it (hasp and lock) the problem is OPENING It once shut. from the outside. with NO access from the rear door (Its filled with my stuff using it as a moving truck)


here is what I have so far. going to 3d print an insert to keep the "release" lifted. once the pivot moves past 0/0 you have to pull it to unlock it even with the "release" lifted.

so here is what I have so far for that. hook on the arm. run it behind the drivers seat and sit it on the dash by the side window. open the side window from the outside tug on the line which will pull the lever past 0/0 then I can unlock the hasp and open the door. tried it. it works.



Does this seem ok? is there a better way?
 
Interesting problem. Looks like you got good headway on a solution. Have you considered replacing the door with a conventional door and lock? I know many do.
 
no time or money to do that now. need a insitu solution with whats their :)


got any leaks for the replacements? are there threads? would be interesting to look at for maybe down the road.
 
Not off the top of my head, but I know a handful of the popular build threads here have done it. It actually sounds pretty easy and pretty functional too if you have the right door to fit in.

Also some have welding the folding door into a single slab and added a knob/lock at the left edge, essentially turning it into a conventional door.
 
Why wouldn't installing a hasp onto the door, secured with a padlock, work..? Sure, it looks kinda Red-Neck, but that fits comfortably within my milieu.
3-D printers are cool, but unless they print in hardened steel, not seeing the point.
Speaking of steel, what's to stop someone intent on stealing your gear from reaching in thru the window, and going all old-school self-service on your sh1t?
 
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There's no way to make a skoolie completely secure from a crook hellbent on gaining access to your pride and joy.
Not leaving valuables or expensive gear in plain sight helps against the impulsive thief.
The best you can do by installing locks and other security devices is slow them down, and hopefully they'll move on to something less inviting...
 
Why wouldn't installing a hasp onto the door, secured with a padlock, work..? Sure, it looks kinda Red-Neck, but that fits comfortably within my milieu.
3-D printers are cool, but unless they print in hardened steel, not seeing the point.
Speaking of steel, what's to stop someone intent on stealing your gear from reaching in thru the window, and going all old-school self-service on your sh1t?




its not securing the door that is the issue. I WILL install a hasp and lock on the outside. I really don't care if anyone thinks its redneck :) hehe


the issue is once that pivot arm passes 0/0 YOU CAN NOT OPEN THE DOOR from the outside. at all. period. :) ie there is no way to "shift" that pivot arm past 0/0 to pop it open. so if I close it and lock it when I unlock it I won't be able to "open" the door.


normally you do this intentionally and just get in from the back door. but since I am filling the entirety of the bus with stuff I won't be able to get to the front from the back.



so I need a way to "pop" the door open from the outside once I undo the lock and hasp. :) hehe
 
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Short of the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch, I've always preferred my car alarms to be backed up with nasty, big, pointy teeth!


yep Mr 12 gauge is your friend. sadly they usually have enough grey matter to make sure I and MR 12 gauge are not around when they do crap. :-(
 
so I need a way to "pop" the door open from the outside once I undo the lock and hasp. :) hehe


You could probably get one of those kits for cars without electric locks to add them- and then jerry rig one of the actuators to pop that thing up via wedge action. It'd even give you a wireless remote.


https://www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Central-Conversion-Entry-Universal-Vehicles/dp/B016RUV8Z2



I have an air piston there, and have wondered how to secure the front door. The rear door lock- I'm not a fan of that either- someone can lock you into the vehicle that way.
 
I used a door lock used for sheds with a double door. It puts a pin through the top of the door frame and down through the bottom too. I think the supplier was “Atlantic shed “
 
I guess I'm not seeing what you're seeing. On my bus, at least, it is physically impossible to lock the passenger door from without, push as hard as you like, the closing mechanism's handle needs a good pull to seat it into the spring-loaded locking receiver. (See foto)
For the back door, I use a patio door thumb lock mounted on the guard, the finger screw's head blocks the lever from being opened from the outside.

its not securing the door that is the issue. I WILL install a hasp and lock on the outside. I really don't care if anyone thinks its redneck :) hehe


the issue is once that pivot arm passes 0/0 YOU CAN NOT OPEN THE DOOR from the outside. at all. period. :) ie there is no way to "shift" that pivot arm past 0/0 to pop it open. so if I close it and lock it when I unlock it I won't be able to "open" the door.


normally you do this intentionally and just get in from the back door. but since I am filling the entirety of the bus with stuff I won't be able to get to the front from the back.



so I need a way to "pop" the door open from the outside once I undo the lock and hasp. :) hehe
I leave the padlock locked in the hasp's receptacle always. So as to avoid some jolly jokester locking me in...
20190610_152416.jpeg
 
All good. pull strap temp install done and secure enough and hasp and lock installed.


https://youtu.be/xpBLuxMtxJc


I like the idea of a remote pop lock. won't even need a hasp and lock them! I may look into that once I get where I am going.


those linked are no where strong enough but I think I can find or fab a linear actuator to "push" the handle to unlock the bus. Then I won't even need a hasp or padlock for the front door at all.
 
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For smaller items

Not sure about the door issue but a small safe could easily be bolted to the floor for smaller valuables, and would serve you well when traveling.
 
Short of the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch, I've always preferred my car alarms to be backed up with nasty, big, pointy teeth!
Run Away Run Away.jpg
Why wouldn't installing a hasp onto the door, secured with a padlock, work..? Sure, it looks kinda Red-Neck, but that fits comfortably within my milieu.
On my B700, i wasn't concerned about aesthetics, so I put a simple hasp arrangement with a padlock over the door half furthest from the opening arm. Big, bad padlock. Worked well on both doors. Just had to remember to close whichever lock I opened on the hook (U-Shaped piece) while inside so no one could lock me in. Use a good, heavy-built hasp and good, strong, deep screws to hold it in.

My B700 was to be a security vehicle until I was able to do a full conversion, but unfortunately, the conversion never happened, due to the bastard whose name is Lucas-Girling. But had some interesting times with it until I had to get rid of it.
 
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