Okay, grab yourself some soda and nachos --- This became a bit longer than I planned, but this is coming from someone with a little bit of experience with the larger MaxxForce engines (11 - 13L-range), having driven 18-wheelers over-the-road -- as well as well-networked with a few people who have owned / worked on / junked / got rid of the typical hybrid vehicles (Prius / Camry / Accord), etc.
I certainly don't mean to rain on anyone's parade, but I personally would not touch this thing with a 40-foot pole, and these are my reasons.
1) NaviStar's MaxxForce engines have the worst reliability rating in the trucking industry. I drove seven different ProStars equipped with these abominations in seven months -- every one of them stayed in the shop. Mostly emissions and electrical issues. Lots more zeroes involved than when a car or minivan requires attention.
2) When the heavy wrecker ($100 hookup and $10 / mi) arrived to tow one of these in, the operator told me that Volvos and ProStars were 85% of their business, mostly the Internationals because of the MaxxForce's crappy emissions system. The eighth one I drove was a good truck, but at one year old with 35k on it, it had better be, right? Wrong. That one's fuel lines had been incorrectly sequenced at the factory and caused quite a few problems before I figured out what was going on.
3) I have seen many a hybrid vehicle junked because of higher repair costs, or whisked off to auction to be sold overseas with malfunction lights covered in electrical tape because they would not go out, even after a complete battery pack replacement and full diagnostic that showed no codes. Remember, a bus is essentially a commercial truck, so anything that goes wrong with them, you can generally add at least one to two zeroes to the repair bill in comparison to an everyday vehicle -- even more so with a hybrid, as they are specialized and not common.
4) Which brings me to my next point -- Many hybrid owners are locked into dealers because not just anyone can work on the hybrid unit and battery packs. Last I checked, standard commercial truck dealer labor was clocking in at around $130-$180 PER HOUR. And not just any dealer tech will be able to work on a hybrid, either, a tech certified in the system will be required, which you won't necessarily find just anywhere.
And if the dealer is backlogged -- well, I hope you have an emergency fund for motel rooms, because sometimes I saw a week or two in a hotel waiting for some jobs to be done. For example, I spent 12 days in Shreveport LA the week before/of Harvey's arrival, and I had to go down to Campti, driving through six to nine inches of water on back roads to pick up a load to Mississippi, running like my life depended on it, because the storm was moving in fast from Corpus Christi. But I digress. Point being, downtime can be BAD juju under the wrong circumstances.
5) Bio-diesel has been known to cause problems with some engines, particularly in certain climates. I was under strict orders at every carrier I drove for to NEVER fuel with bio-diesel. I think it had something to do with clogging filters and causing other fuel system problems. It really doesn't burn any cleaner than ULSD anyway, once you account for DPF / DEF systems, which are a PITA of their own category -- it is simply the selling point of being renewable, 'green' fuel. The commercials for biodiesel specifically state a lot of it is made from algae. Ask any marine-diesel boat owner about algae in their fuel and what a problem it is.
Side note here -- You would be well-advised to steer clear of CNG and LPG-powered models as well. Reason being that neither fuel source is readily available just anywhere, the tanks must be certified and checked meticulously every so often, they are extremely costly to replace, and make the vehicle a veritable bomb -- and that's all assuming it skates under the 119-gallon HazMat threshold. I'm not sure an LPG/CNG vehicle's onboard fuel tanks are exempt from this. Unless you know someone who can easily convert the vehicle to diesel or gas, whichever applies, I would pass on these as well. Power and fuel range are terrible. The only benefit is that the fuel burns clean, not enough to outweigh the current caveats.
IF you find a gas model that is Flex-Fuel, keep in mind that these engines CAN run on E85... But some of these have been known to get stuck in one mode or another when switching fuel mixtures, which usually mean a trip to the dealer.
But if they are NOT Flex-Fuel...do not run anything above E15 in '07+ models, and do not run anything above E10 in anything older than an '06. These engines are not designed for higher concentrations of ethanol and it WILL damage them.
As I stated previously, I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but think long and hard about whether you want a $1300 tow bill or an $8000 repair bill that will completely outweigh any fuel you save -- which I've observed has been the case for many conventional hybrid owners. Anyone here can tell you that repairs on conventional diesel-powered models are expensive enough. I think the potential issues you will run into with such a beast will not only ruin you financially, they will completely sour you on the skoolie experience, which can be quite awesome -- but choose wisely. One nice thing about a skoolie -- as long as it's converted well and the conversion does not hinder serviceability -- truck repair shops are much more welcoming of skoolies than conventional RVs, for a number of reasons.
That being said -- Many here will tell you that the right bus takes a bit of searching and time -- don't settle on the first one that looks nice and runs good. I'll give you a run-down of what I've observed in my time here (Round two - my previous account was deleted at well over 3000 posts) and my own real-world observations and experiences.
Engines: Caterpillar 3208, Navistar DT466, DT360, T444 / T444E, Cummins 5.9 / 8.3, Ford 7.3 (essentially a T444 with a few differences, from what I gather from others, who can chime in if I've missed any gems), are all good engine choices to start with in the diesel department. Gas engines are not as common as they used to be, but most generally are not a problem. I would absolutely not buy any diesel newer than an '02, due to emissions issues, as they are somewhat expensive to fix when they decide they need attention. '02-'04s may not be AS bad, but '04+ can be a real pain (and expensive) when they need attention (and they will).
For diesels, basic emissions began around '98 with Exhaust Gas Recirculation systems, and they were headache enough.
Then Diesel Particulate Filters (diesel version of a catalytic converter) showed up around '02-'04, and they made things even more interesting... Don't take my word for it -- Google "Diesel Particulate Filter Fires" and click "Images" -- or better yet, if you know someone with 18-wheeler experience, ask them how many trucks they've seen spontaneously combust and burn to the ground because of a DPF malfunction.
Diesel Exhaust Fluid arrived somewhere between '08 for some models, and that system is the devil's spawn, especially as it is used in conjunction with the previous two. These are the primary reasons I wouldn't buy anything newer than about an '02. Albeit, the MaxxForce engines are really the problem children... The others haven't been as bad... apart from... *drum roll please*....
The '03+ 6.0 PowerStroke diesel -- avoid these like the plague, you do NOT want one. The pre-'03 7.3 is a much better engine. The Caterpillar 3126 and C-7 have been known to have head gasket issues, though I'm not sure how common those issues are.
The 6.6L Ford / New Holland diesel is a good engine in its own right, but relatively gutless, and being a tractor engine in actuality, will prove difficult to find parts for if necessary. These are made in Brazil, hence they are known as the "Brazilian" diesel.
Transmissions: Manuals are best, but getting harder to find. Automatics: Most candidates you find will have one of these: Allison AT545, MT643, MD6030. The AT545 is very basic, and somewhat weak. Not a TERRIBLE transmission under normal use, but most need major attention when they are retired. The MT643 is a good bit better, and well, the MD6030 is a gem if you can find one. Some auto transmissions will have a bit of an Easter egg in the form of an extra gear that can be unlocked if it's not already set up -- just have to know the right person with the right equipment to do it. I'm thinking this applies to both the MT643 and the MD6030, but lack of sleep is clouding my mind at the moment -- I'm sure someone will chime in on this.
Smaller buses that are based on vans will not have these, they will have whatever normally comes in the van chassis they are based on, 4L80E / 4L85E for GM, Fords I believe used the 4R70W. None are really that bad, but neither one is bulletproof, either. A note about these smaller buses -- Depending on their age -- the diesels will either be 6.2 / 6.5L Detroit diesels or 6.6L Duramax for GM, and all of them have their own nuances. Earlier 6.2s had head gasket and block issues, the 6.6L is known for fuel problems, particularly the injectors on the LB7s. The Fords are okay up to '02 -- the last year for the 7.3L. The 6.0L is a bus-sized headache you do not want - problems galore, as I stated previously. Unfortunately, a few of the bigger buses since '03 have gotten these too.
Brakes: Air or hydraulic? Tough question, and depends on some of the following scenarios... But if your plans include mountains or a lot of hills, I would opt for air. Though the inexperienced should not attempt servicing them, they're not as complicated as most think, and hydraulic brakes can fade quickly with mountains or lots of hills, a very dangerous situation giving a point towards air brakes.
Otherwise, hydraulic will be fine, but I would avoid late-model Fords with hydraulic brakes -- the system those use is highly expensive to repair and maintain, and most shops won't even touch them -- that's assuming you can find parts without selling your first-born to buy them. This generally applies only to larger buses on chassis rated 2-ton or better (F650+), the van-based minibuses did not offer air brakes and from a mechanical standpoint are largely no different than a standard cargo van of the same body line.
Lucas-Girling is the name of the manufacturer of this system. Some NaviStars (Internationals) with hydraulic may or may not have this system as well, I believe it went the way of the do-do around 1997-1999. More or less, some crackpot engineer tried to merge operation characteristics of air brakes into a hydraulic system -- and when it worked as intended, it was good. But when it failed --- OH BOY. If the parking brake is a little metal box with a plastic toggle switch or anything similar, RUN. I had to junk an otherwise perfectly good 64-passenger Blue Bird on Ford chassis with a strong 429 and manual trans because of that system.
All this aside, If you want a bigger bus... Your body choices include conventional (dog-nose), and flat nose. Flat-nose are a bit easier to maneuver in most cases, but come in two flavors -- front engine and rear engine (also called RE or pushers). Front-engine buses will tend to be a bit hot and noisy to drive, especially on the highway. Pushers are quieter and cooler in the front when driving, and will generally have better drive traction in bad weather, but have their own special concerns with cooling at times, particularly with hills or mountains.
Consider carefully what your planned use is once your conversion is finished. Will you be traveling cross-country? Back roads? Mountains? All of these merit consideration. If you're simply going to park it on a lot and live in it, most anything will do -- but otherwise, you have to consider this to choose an optimum setup... Major mechanical changes such as rear differential gears and transmission upgrades are costly and time consuming, which take away from your enjoyment.
Occasional jaunts with no highway cruising, chances are a DT360, 7.3, T444/E, or 5.9 Cummins with an AT545 will be just fine as long as you're okay with 55-60 mph cruising -- standard axle gears in the 4.56-5.29 range will do just fine for this.
If you're planning highway cruising, you'll really want the MT643 at the minimum -- the 6030 is much better, and you'll want an axle gear more in the 4.11-4.56 range, I'd say.
If your adventures are meant to include mountains, you'll want the Caterpillar 3208 turbo, DT466, 8.3 Cummins, 7.3 Ford, the MD6030, and axle gears in the 4.56-4.88 range.
Just my $0.02 here, I'm sure others may voice agreement or dissent. But that is what I would look for, and I would pass on this seeming gem you have found -- based on my experience and observations, I think you're setting yourself up for a headache, one of many to come. I think most here will agree when taking into account my stated experience and observations.
In my experience, Freightliners with Detroit power were the most reliable. Personally, in my dream world, skoolies would have been getting Detroit's DD5 and DD8 as engine options the moment they were available in medium duty trucks, and 5 /6 speed manuals or a slightly different version of Detroit's DT12 automatic. Alas, the bus builders are only now starting to use Detroit power, and as far as I know, the MD6030 is still the best automatic you can get in a skoolie.
Remember, all I've said here is purely in the interest of increasing your enjoyment of your purchase, and the finished product, as well as, above all, safety. Remember, a school bus as it was built was and still is a commercial vehicle, even once it's been gutted and registered as a motorhome -- it is simply exempt from CDL requirements. Gutting it and making it into an RV does not change the fact that it weighs 12,000 lbs empty and has the mechanicals of a basic commercial truck. It only means you no longer need a CDL to drive it because it is no longer considered commercial use.
And be prepared to repair / replace brake linings and/or tires -- many buses being retired are on the verge of needing service in this area, which is oft-overlooked by folks new to the experience. Steer tires will likely be about $200-250 each, drive tires about the same. Brakes on most trucks are about $2000 per axle, depending on the system and the shop. Sometimes you get lucky and the bus had these serviced / replaced not long before it was retired.
I'm sure there are members here that are more than willing to help you find a suitable candidate. Most of us long-timers here know good sources for finding good buses. And I wouldn't buy buses from the northern part of the country unless you're willing to contend with a lot of rust -- a far more serious problem than you might think. Just ask around the site about that one. Lots of these things hide rust in places you won't notice it until you've already bought it.
One other thing, DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT FLORIDA CHURCH BUS. They burned a former member here BADLY, a story I am very familiar with, as they told other potential buyers a great many untruths about the transaction and their response to the problems that ensued. Ask questions here about ANY 'dealer' you're thinking of buying from. 99% of the buses you find will carry a 'tail light' warranty, meaning the warranty expires when they lose sight of your tail lights as you're driving away.
That being said, welcome to the skoolie family, and I hope your journey is a safe and enjoyable one. Lots of good folks here with a lot of helpful advice, some are even willing to help find the right bus. ABOVE ALL -- NEVER BUY SIGHT UNSEEN, INSPECT IN PERSON IF POSSIBLE, OR AT LEAST HAVE SOMEONE EXPERIENCED TO INSPECT IT FOR YOU. I think some members here might not mind checking one out for you if it is somewhat local to them -- an experienced truck or bus mechanic would be better, however.
One other thing, most auctions and dealers will not / cannot allow you to drive your new purchase home without removing seats / stop sign arm, 'SCHOOL BUS" and municipality lettering if not already done. Some states even require that it be repainted something other than the school bus yellow. Another thing that is a snag is that most can not allow it to be driven off their lot without a CDL, either. I am one of a few members here who holds a CDL, albeit I have a Class A with only air brake endorsements -- small van-based buses require a Class C minimum, larger ones a Class B with P endorsement for transport until it is registered and titled as a motorhome, if not already done.
I have nothing better to do at the moment, so I may be able to help with this. Seeing as a Class A qualifies me for trailer trucks weighing up to 80,000 lbs loaded, as long as the bus is otherwise road legal, I don't think DOT will bother me if I can prove I am simply relocating it for the owner. If you cover my travel, fuel and motel rooms -- and something for my time, of course. Still cheaper than loading it on a low-boy or towing.
Let me know if I can be of service.
But sorry, I have to say, no, no, a thousand times, no, for the bus you are discussing here. I see far more headaches than it is worth, enough to ruin the experience for you.
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