I'm 86ing the whole roof raise!!

[TucsonAZ]

I first decided to do it for two reasons, I already have 4x10 aluminum sheets and I hated the thought of cutting 25.5" off for window skins when I could just cut 38.5" pieces off and I'm basically getting my raise for under $1,000ish. Additionally, I preferred the hallway down the side which is only possible with the roof raise.

So, it came down to make it perfect but never get it done or accept things as they were and at least get on the road.

I'm only 5'8" and my bus with the factory wood floor gone is 6'3" to the ribs so really I'll be fine on that front. Downsides for me are:

1) No full size fridge.
2) Can't stack washer/dryer.
3) Can't mount mini split on roof as I'd planned.
4) No side hallway.
5) Need to completely adjust floor plan in a way I didn't want with the main bedroom at the rear versus the front.
6) Let room for bunks.
7) No full sized shower.
8 ) No hiding the wiring, plumbing in a drop floor.

Positives:

1) Less work (only temporary) but feels more manageable.
2) Much more visually appealing to me.
3) Can keep the side door and add a fold down porch.
4) Can get it done in stages which is easier for me with age.
5) Not as tall so more wiggle room for full sized solar roof rack with 5,000 watts.


Looking at that, there are huge advantages but the theme comes back to never get it down but have it exactly the way I'd planned and hoped or actually get it done and get some traveling under my belt. I think if I were to assign a pros/cons points system many of the pros are rather big for me.

I have peace in having decided this but I still would have liked to do the raise. I just know in being honest with myself it's going to push me over the edge with what I'll be able to manage.

So, those are my thoughts for anybody who ever stumbles upon this.

 

[Rucker]

Not doing a roof raise will definitely speed the conversion process, that's a plus. Is there a way to do the conversion so it's still an option in the future?

 

[Timeline]

Without the help from some friends who know metal working and use of a cnc machine to make drill holes the job would have taken me over 400 hours working alone on my 38' bus.

John

 

[ewo1]

Then there is the insurance factor. Many ins companies will not insure a roof raise.

 

[musigenesis]

7) No full sized shower.

It's possible to have your shower/tub projecting below the level of the floor, giving you a full-height shower even without a roof raise. A few skooliers (including myself) have done this.

 

[cadillackid]

full size fridge and stacked washer / dryer are pretty dumb in a bus anyway.. they are flying torpedos in a panic stop or an accident...

 

[TucsonAZ]

full size fridge and stacked washer / dryer are pretty dumb in a bus anyway.. they are flying torpedos in a panic stop or an accident...

I have a feeling we're making our buses very differently if you're worried about things flying around in a panic stop ( :

 

[cadillackid]

im not worried.. everything is secured in my bus very well.. but a commo0n full size household appliance doesnt have a proiper cabinet to be properly secured in a bus..

 

[TucsonAZ]

im not worried.. everything is secured in my bus very well.. but a commo0n full size household appliance doesnt have a proiper cabinet to be properly secured in a bus..

I'm always happiest working with metal so most of my bus is metal. Honestly, I'm way way more worried about rolling tool chests in my trailer and even that I'm not super worried about.

 

[Winter-Vale]

No roof raise for us either.

We didnt raise the roof either and we're 5'10 and 6'1. We have a center hall but i find that a side pass would have still worked. The arc isnt that steep on our Intl and if you take shoulders into account, your head isnt going to bang going down the side. As for your stackable machines, you could opt for an all-in-one. They are coming along in the States but you lose the ability to have two loads working and the wash/dry cycle takes forrrreeeevvvveerrrr and is electrically expensive. I put in a mini washer and no dryer at all but i am a clothesline girl anyway. We sunk our shower basin as suggested above. That is a spot where any improved headroom makes a difference. You could also build a skylight hatch over shower to raise the roof there. Once you've cut your first hole in the roof or wall skin, you'll become fearless. Finally, please take insurance warning above very seriously. No matter how well supported your roof raise, you'll still have "interfered" with structural integrity and insurors frown on it. Also found that roof decks and wood stoves make insurors cross-eyed. Build what you want. Why settle? Or build what you need for now and prepare for your second build. We all know, by the end of our 1st build, whether or not we'll do it again!

 

[katix]

I'm short so don't need a roof raise, which allows me the freedom to be quite critical of them. I'm such a fan of the structural indestructibility of skoolies, with the insanely strong roll cage structure from front to back. you lose that once you saw through a rib. and they're so cute! raising the roof changes the classic skoolie look. and they can be very expensive.
i guess I'm a short cheapskate that loves vintage vehicles, so a roof raise rubs me wrong in every way. but plenty of tall people have no other option. i feel for y'all!

congrats on moving forward any way you can!

 

[DeMac]

We didnt raise the roof either and we're 5'10 and 6'1. We have a center hall but i find that a side pass would have still worked. The arc isnt that steep on our Intl and if you take shoulders into account, your head isnt going to bang going down the side.

Some Internationals have 6'7" ceilings, down the center. Even after adding 2"x3" fur strips, the center of our side hall has 6'3" of headroom.