Interior partition walls

[Neurotaffy]

Hi Skoolies,
Im in the early planning stages of my Crown's conversion and would like toget an idea how you all are addressing the use of interior walls. More specifically those that separate different spaces in the bus. I am an artist/welder/ fabricator and have all tooling necessary for cabinet making and custom metals fabrication in our "new" Crown project. I would like to use this skill to construct a refined, well constructed, and slightly "minimal" space for travel. My inspiration for this originates from the function over form of airliner interiors, pullman railcars (not too minimal but surfaces are sweet!), and ikea type kitchens (not construction quality buy design only).

I have the idea that our conversion will be a "compartmented conversion". Meaning it will be divided into 4 different unique spaces. As a family of 4 we would like to travel together and invite other families to travel along with us on various short or eventually longer trips. T

he bus will ultimately have seating for 12 people but realistically have sleeping berths for only 8. The kitchen will have an apartment style electric or gas stove fridge and freezer below deck for cold storage. Bathroom and shower will be separate. Shower will have a complete welded stainless steel surround top bottom and sides with a sliding door. Thinking of running a diesel genset 7.5 Kw (already have an Onan setup). I like the idea of a mini split but hate the clunkiness of its install- possibly I will use a hydronic heat system or make provisions for an eventual solar system- Its very early in the planning stages now. ( Still not sold on the joys or safety of Li Ion batteries) I really really like the idea of running air ducting in a small ceiling conduit which also houses adjustable lighting. the A/C or heat would travel along this "trough" and vent to all sections of the bus linearly.

Most conversions have benches or even school bus seats and table seating for a few folks but it seems these aren't that convenient for longer trips the way a reclinable charter bus seat would be. I have acquired 10 double AMAYA/Astron seats from a wrecked Prevost with 3 point seatbelts for free! Eight of which will replace the school seats in front.

My plan is to make a front "salon" of sorts. It will replicate the seating in a Charter bus with three rows of double seats on the RH and LH side of the bus. This would be more like a rail car with upper shelves for storage, potential for a drop down bunk setup, central A/C from the ceiling as well as two sliding doors to isolate the compartment from the driver and then rearward from the kitchen area.

I have seen the 'ol plywood and pine stud method of framing, with all due respect, it is not the direction I would like to go. I'm thinking of a more prefabricated honeycomb rigid board applied to strips of plywood (see Chuck Cassaday's framing method) in a thinner but durable fitment. Id like to be able to make a center sliding pocket door on each section that will have a soft close to it doesn't slam about on turns etc. Much like an Amtrak door between cars but not stainless steel. My reasoning is that the bus can be compartmentally closed up for privacy, air conditioning/ heat in zones, and to insulate for sound in sleeping compartments if underway with passengers and nappers. It can also be opened up for parties and a full complement of travellers.

I'm still quite new to the group. I'd love to see what you all have done along these linesWho here has considered this plan and has experience manufacturing these sorts of partitions. I would love to hear from you and see what you have made.

 

[Neurotaffy]

Anyone have input on this other than the above post?

 

[nikitis]

I mean we all try to create compartments. Master bedroom, bathroom/battery closet, kitchen area, dining area. Those are the typical cookie cutter designs. I often see people here try go go against the grain on that, but the typical solution is the most practical for many or small families. They want all things that are in a house but smaller more portable.

People with special use cases like a hot dog vendor bus may do it differently to tailor their business. It's all about what you are trying to do with it.

Weight of tanks are often a factor too as to why everyone does nearly the same layout. I realize this may limit you to compartment type or location but it shouldn't on design. Everyone uses different materials and this is where your efforts can wow people on materials used.

 

[Neurotaffy]

I mean we all try to create compartments. Master bedroom, bathroom/battery closet, kitchen area, dining area. Those are the typical cookie cutter designs. I often see people here try go go against the grain on that, but the typical solution is the most practical for many or small families. They want all things that are in a house but smaller more portable.

People with special use cases like a hot dog vendor bus may do it differently to tailor their business. It's all about what you are trying to do with it.

Weight of tanks are often a factor too as to why everyone does nearly the same layout. I realize this may limit you to compartment type or location but it shouldn't on design. Everyone uses different materials and this is where your efforts can wow people on materials used.

Yes, thank you. I think I am looking for a more specific construction materials related response. Like what materials converters have used, what works, what doesnt. Aluminum framed structure? wood, synthetic? lamination vs screw fasteners? Sliding door details such as rollers, track specifics, hand fabricated or bought. fastening methods to inner frame members? I would much rather have these sort of factors figured out with others experiences than trial and error on my part. ~Neurotaffy

 

[nikitis]

Most use wood, for the main interior walls often 2x4s, but some like to save in weight and use smaller wood.

I always thought about using aluminium framing to save in weight, but the time and money would get costly.

People do often use steel tubing for the bed frame sometimes in place of wood. But that's usually what I see people use most. But steel for walls is pretty much never used for weight constraints.

 

[LargeMarge-TC]

Our Usual Suggestion:
a) toss in some car-camping gear,
b) go have fun.
c) your Requirements will become apparent as you use your rig.
.
One inevitable issue with first-time converters:
Getting bogged in details, planning ThePerfectRig.
And just as inevitably, second-time converters evoke the 'go have fun' stage.
Along the line, equipment and ideas are examined, tested, and discarded.
.
I call this 'evolution'.
You change and grow, your rig needs evolve, too.
Example:
After years of fussing with the dxng thing, three of our caravan chums dumped their BillionBuxBus conversion for a sailboat.
.
One advantage of Our Usual Suggestion [above]?
You can caravan with experienced travellers, watching, listening, and learning skills during the 'go have fun' segment of nomadity.
.
Hx:
2003, after a half-century of make-do camping in lesser rigs, we built our ExpeditionVehicle.
Over two decades full-time live-aboard.
And our rig is constantly evolving along with our changing needs.

 

[Blubus]

Yes, thank you. I think I am looking for a more specific construction materials related response. Like what materials converters have used, what works, what doesnt. Aluminum framed structure? wood, synthetic? lamination vs screw fasteners? Sliding door details such as rollers, track specifics, hand fabricated or bought. fastening methods to inner frame members? I would much rather have these sort of factors figured out with others experiences than trial and error on my part. ~Neurotaffy

For us specifically, I used 2x4s for framing and very thin 23/32 plywood sheathing for walls because it's light and rigid. It was < $40 a sheet when we built our bus, not it's closer to $60 . When added to 2x4s it's very sturdy and durable with the added bonus of allowing you to mount things to it or poking a hole in it to route cables behind it. We're almost a decade into having it in our bus without a single failure.

For example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-23-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-BC-Sanded-Pine-Plywood-201428/100061386

 

[fishe160]

Based on your plan, I think your bus will be beautiful when it's finished.
I am 3 years in and wish I had kept things a little simpler, faster. FWIW

The only other bus I've come across that remotely fits some of your ideas was the Broccoli Bus by Aaron, an OG bus. They used to have a website he hosted with everything, but it's been taken down. Some of the photos linked on his build page don't open anymore. But there is an Instagram for it.

He used 1" steel tub and a plastic sheet over it to create bulkheads kinda like you described (if I understood both of you correctly ).

Roughly the right area of his build thread:
Post in thread 'The Broccoli Bus' The Broccoli Bus

I think most people here are comfortable with wood and traditional building methods, so you might be a pioneer!

 

[s2mikon]

When I made my bulkheads I used 14 ga 1.5 x 3 rectangle tubing and welded it together and welded it to my floor and used self tapping floor board screws, 1/4-20, into the side and roof bows. Then I faced 1 side only with 1/2" ply faced with white FRP, attached it to the bulkheads after painting them, with self tapping floor board screws, 1/4-20. The FRP went against the metal frame. Then I faced the other side as I needed. FRP for the shower, and wainscot panel elsewhere. This allowed me to use the open side for storage. This allowed me to only give up 3/4" for bulkheads. You can tell that we were not finished when these pictures were done due to the lack of enough "medicine" in the medicine cabinet.

 

[Bjorkinman]

I used no 2x4's, I feel like they waste too much space for wall cavities, especially when you're like me and need every inch you can muster. I simply cut full sheets of 3/4 using a curve tool like This one for the roof curve. I pocket hole screwed those into the ribs you can see inset in the spray foam. The aluminum rail is one
of 3 pocket doors I installed between sections. I think this approach really allowed me to maximize space. The section i'm enclosing is where my toilet sits now with a sink. The shower went above the wheel well on the passenger side. One pic is the pocket door that separates the bath from the master.

 

[flattracker]

Since you have a supercoach (not supercoach II), your bus is mid engine. Do not hinder the access to the engine through the floor. The spare tire bay is a good place to mount a generator. I used unistrut to frame the partition walls. Keep all water lines inside the passenger compartment. Use PEX for the water lines. All of my Unistrut is MIG welded together. My suggestions are based on prior experience,

 

[flattracker]

Additional suggestions: Keep the bus electrical separate from the RV electrical. A second alternator can be added to your engine. Don't know if you have Cummins of Detroit, but alternator mount are basically the same. A 250 amp Load Boss is a good pick. I used 1000 watts of flexible solar panels. The trunk is a good place for RV batteries.

 

[nikitis]

I like your corner sink idea. Adds room for the toilet access.

 

[Blubus]

For us specifically, I used 2x4s for framing and very thin 23/32 plywood sheathing for walls because it's light and rigid. It was < $40 a sheet when we built our bus, not it's closer to $60 . When added to 2x4s it's very sturdy and durable with the added bonus of allowing you to mount things to it or poking a hole in it to route cables behind it. We're almost a decade into having it in our bus without a single failure.

For example: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-23-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-BC-Sanded-Pine-Plywood-201428/100061386

I realized I misspoke. I said 23/32" plywood for walls. That was a massive gaffe lol. That's almost 3/4" thick and very expensive.

We used 1/8" plywood sheathing.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PATRIOT...8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-RightPly-Plywood/321238692

Not sure what I was thinking when I posted that originally

 

[Blubus]

Additional suggestions: Keep the bus electrical separate from the RV electrical. A second alternator can be added to your engine. Don't know if you have Cummins of Detroit, but alternator mount are basically the same. A 250 amp Load Boss is a good pick. I used 1000 watts of flexible solar panels. The trunk is a good place for RV batteries.

I have my RV and bus 12V systems bonded via a battery isolator and a 300amp fused link.
It allows the alternator to run my inverter when driving down the road. I can have the alternator power 12V accessories like lights and usb ports scattered throughout and also 120V accessories like the fridge while driving so I'm not depleting my RV/House battery bank. When we're driving 10-13 hours that constant drain adds up on the RV battery bank so this is a good alternative that leaves the house batteries charged and idle while in transit. Also, we do not have solar.

When we stop for a break, I switch the 12V power power source to the RV/house batteries as to not have a constant drain on the chassis battery.

I don't usually have both 12V systems active and connected simultaneously but my battery isolator does allow for that capability if:

• I'm in an emergency situation and I need to power something
• If I ever need to jump or provide power to my chassis battery
• If we're driving and I need to top off the house batteries

When we have shore power, I have a 12v 3 circuit charger that kicks in and charges the house batteries and the chassis battery separately on their own dedicated circuits. Definitely do not want to charge them all together as 1 single battery. That'll cause big problems.