LED Lighting

Bus21

Advanced Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2020
Posts
31
Location
Texas
Can the clearance lights be replaced with LED lights or does it require some sort of extra module? Thanks
 
You can swap in LEDs for the clearance lights and identification lamps (the trios of lights on the front and rear roof caps) with no problem. Turn signals are a different matter.
 
look at partsam on amazon.
thats where i got all of mine.
and i have also found a parts book at orielly that has them but at over double the cost of partsam
 
The turn signal/cruise control issue can be fixed by installing a load resistor inline with the LEDs.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/

The cruise issue may require the load resistor to be put on the 3rd high-mount brake light. On passenger cars the 3rd brake light is on its own circuit and some OEMs use this circuit for the cruise control. If the cruise control doesn't detect the correct resistance it assumes a fault in the system and won't let the cruise work.

But, don't use those stupid splicers as shown in the picture on the site. Splce it in correctly.
 
BE AWARE

Many of the lights sold on Amazon, FleaBay, etc. ARE NOT DOT approved and are therefore illegal to install on your vehicle exterior.
Now, will that ever be a problem? Do you live in a state that requires inspections? It could be. Or you could be fine for years and suddenly find that one inspector that looks..... or you could never have an issue.
If you have stock lamps installed, simply replacing the bulb with an LED replacement will usually be a lot cheaper and keep the lamps DOT approved (as long as someone hasn't already put non DOT on).


ALSO, if you want LED turn signals, and install them, if the system doesn't flash or flashes too slow, you can obtain a flasher designed to operate with LED lamps so long as your vehicle uses a standard automotive type flasher.
 
I think it's wise to stick with lights common as OEM items on school buses... Trucklite, Sound-Off, Weldon, etc. They're reasonably priced, DOT approved, generally well-built, and in most cases getting just parts (gaskets / lenses / bases / etc) is just as easy as new light assemblies. Most 'Amazon' lights are essentially throw-aways, and you never know if what you bought today will be around tomorrow. We bought spare lenses, gaskets, & bulbs for all our markers... a failure/breakage is always 30-seconds away from being fixed.
 
Swapping turn signals or brake lights to LEDs can cause issues, and Veloc is right that you can fix it with an inline load resistor; because there is often a 'computer' or detection circuit that is expecting a certain amount of resistance based on the OE lamp resistance to electrical flow. LEDs have much less resistance, as they consume less power, and so the circuit reads this as having a lamp out (shorted, specifically), and can trigger problems with the cruise control, or problems with the flasher speed.

Inline load resistors correct the problem of what the circuit is expecting, but IMHO, a better solution is to 'correct' the circuit's expected load resistance through changing your flasher/brake relay to one designed to accommodate LED lamps. I know Bosch makes a few for older equipment that worked well for me.

Regarding simple marker lights, they are essentially a 'dumb load' that is there for safety purposes, and outside of some kind of high-tech solution to trigger a warning light or a computer message, you can easily replace them with whatever you like with no problems.

HAMSkoolie is right though about the DOT approval... While I largely don't care what the gubbermint says is acceptable or not, those rules were created for a safety reason, and the DOT approval stamp just generally means that they were designed to handle some expected bumps, jostles, scraping, and rock-flinging that more generic Chinesium components probably won't live up to. And especially with marker lights, I don't really feel like climbing up there every 6 months or so to check/change components out. I'd rather drop $500 on some kind of mil-spec lights that I only have to install once, and then maybe change a bulb/lamp/LED every 5/10/20 years.

Going with something like TruckLite or Weldon like TheHubbardBus suggested is probably the best bet. I know TruckLite at least carries OEM-styled LED conversion kits that are only marginally (~30 sec to 5 min) more difficult to install than changing the Original Equipment bulbs.
 
I think it's wise to stick with lights common as OEM items on school buses... Trucklite, Sound-Off, Weldon, etc. They're reasonably priced, DOT approved, generally well-built, and in most cases getting just parts (gaskets / lenses / bases / etc) is just as easy as new light assemblies. Most 'Amazon' lights are essentially throw-aways, and you never know if what you bought today will be around tomorrow. We bought spare lenses, gaskets, & bulbs for all our markers... a failure/breakage is always 30-seconds away from being fixed.
I'd go so far as to say that if you're changing out all your exterior lamps go with something that has been around for a long time and is available in just about any truck stop. If you want LED just swap out the bulbs with LED ones.
 
Got my led clearance lights from Kenworth. Many years ago.
What you be asking is: How do you connect the ground terminal?
Is the ground terminal attached to one of the mounting screw holes or is it a wire that has to be attached to the bus body? The former is easier to install than the latter.

I am not sure if this is clear......
 
Head lights as well?

Some times the cruise control will quit when you convert the brake lights to LED.

So I switched out my headlights with a direct plug-n-play light and noticed my cruise control was spotty. Do you believe this could be fixed with the inline load resistor fix for the brake lights. You also have to keep the switch pulled to on or else they hyper flash.
 

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