LED Lighting

So I switched out my headlights with a direct plug-n-play light and noticed my cruise control was spotty. Do you believe this could be fixed with the inline load resistor fix for the brake lights. You also have to keep the switch pulled to on or else they hyper flash.

If you only changed headlights, it is highly unlikely that a load resistor on the headlights will fix the problem. If you changed any of the brake lights for LEDs, then a load resistor might help. You would need to identify the cruise control's brake circuit and verify whether there are LEDs on that path. If so, it should help.
 
Hi folks, hope all are doing well!! I’m going to Install 4 led spot lights, (DC-9-30 V) 2 in front and 2 in the back as work lights or just to Light up The area as we pack or unpack. The challenge I’m having is trying to figure out if I need any resistors or relays to Prevent burning up the switch and or bus.
Back in the day I burnt up a few switches and wires after I connecting the switch directly to the car battery. Now theses were not LEDs. Maybe that being the difference Thank you very much my friends!!
Take care and be safe!!
 
Depends on the amp rating of the switch. A safer system used by kenworth uses a relay to power the lamps but move the switch from the control (positive) to the ground side of the relay. Switches last forever and cannot cause a fire from shorting out
 
So I think I understand. I take a hot wire directly from the batteries to the lights. Then take a ground wire from the other side of the lights to a switch then the ground side of the batteries or the frame of the bus.
Does this eliminate the need for a resistor/relay? What size amp switch should I be using? And finally, where I’m I putting the fuse, on the hot or ground side?
Thank you very much!!!
 
So I think I understand. I take a hot wire directly from the batteries to the lights.
NO
Then take a ground wire from the other side of the lights to a switch then the ground side of the batteries or the frame of the bus.
NO


You take a large gauge wire, size calculated by TOTAL amperage to be on the circuit. Fuse the wire at the battery and run it to where the light will be installed BUT DO NOT connect it to the light.
That power wire connects to the hot side of the relay and is jumpered to the hot switching side of the relay.
On the ground switching side of the relay you run a ground wire to your switch and then ground.
The switched output terminal of the relay then goes to the light and the light is grounded to chassis or back to the battery.


This arrangement allows a smaller gauge wire and lower capacity switch to turn the light on and off while the large gauge feeding the lamp carries power more efficiently.
 
NO

NO


You take a large gauge wire, size calculated by TOTAL amperage to be on the circuit. Fuse the wire at the battery and run it to where the light will be installed BUT DO NOT connect it to the light.
That power wire connects to the hot side of the relay and is jumpered to the hot switching side of the relay.
On the ground switching side of the relay you run a ground wire to your switch and then ground.
The switched output terminal of the relay then goes to the light and the light is grounded to chassis or back to the battery.


This arrangement allows a smaller gauge wire and lower capacity switch to turn the light on and off while the large gauge feeding the lamp carries power more efficiently.
Yes use a relay
 

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