Manual swap: big trans to dt466 mechanical

[Omnibot2000]

Need to find out what the amperage draw on those solenoids.

 

[Mr P]

The original (old) solenoids: one ohm'd within spec (11-21 ohms) and one was 0 ohms. I got a solenoid from Amazon for $85 to replace the 0 ohm. I put unfused 12v to the Amazon solenoid and in a few seconds it's connector was smoking hot. A day later I briefly put power to it and it "puffed" some air. Today I robbed a 6 amp breaker to power the circuit, the Amazon solenoid puffs when shifted, and does not trip the breaker if it's powered for several seconds. The original solenoid now immediately trips the breaker and ohms at 0.....ugh.

Maybe I confused the factory solenoids. But how did the Amazon solenoid have a direct short, nearly melt down, but now appears to work?

See why I bought a completely mechanical diesel engine? lol

 

[Mr P]

a good driveshaft shop shou;d be able to fit a new yoke on the driveshaft side so you can bolt it up to the 10 speed yoke..

Said driveshaft was $820. Ouch. Had to have a new trans yoke and mating driveshaft yoke, and 7" joint. It fits.

Next:

1. find rear door starter safety wires and use them for a clutch switch
2. fix air shift soloids/wiring
3. adjust clutch
4. probably 7 dozen other things that slip my mind now

 

[Omnibot2000]

Can you attach a link to what you purchased for that solenoid

 

[Mr P]

World American A3280F9392 ....on Amazon

 

[Omnibot2000]

I searched that Meritor number and could not find a troubleshoot or spec info for the solenoid.

You know year, make and model of truck that trans. came from?

But yeah. Always fuse a wire to anything. Even testing.

Guess you can't return that solenoid or exchange it?

 

[Mr P]

That solenoid works. At first it was shorted, and the connector overheated to the point of beginning to smoke, but now it "puffs" air probably like it should. I have never heard one of those solenoids work, and I cannot test it by driving yet.

 

[nikitis]

Connectors overheating usually means too much amperage is going through the wire. More than it can handle anyways. Not sure if it requires a thicker wire for that solenoid or not, but I think something is miss sized electrically.

 

[Omnibot2000]

That solenoid works. At first it was shorted, and the connector overheated to the point of beginning to smoke, but now it "puffs" air probably like it should. I have never heard one of those solenoids work, and I cannot test it by driving yet.

Ah, I see now. I misunderstood you. If it was me. I would look into converting the thing over to air operated and be done with it.

 

[Mr P]

Well, I'm much more inclined to convert it to a stick shift. I don't like complexity of controls. (Hence a dt466 and manual trans.)

I've ordered another solenoid. I'm hoping the initial "short circuit" was a fluke. If I still have other problems, the 6 amp breaker will save my circuits for more....experiments.

 

[Mr P]

Connectors overheating usually means too much amperage is going through the wire. More than it can handle anyways. Not sure if it requires a thicker wire for that solenoid or not, but I think something is miss sized electrically.

The wires are correct size. The amperage was, momentarily, too great. I don't know why.

 

[Omnibot2000]

Well, I'm much more inclined to convert it to a stick shift. I don't like complexity of controls. (Hence a dt466 and manual trans.)

I've ordered another solenoid. I'm hoping the initial "short circuit" was a fluke. If I still have other problems, the 6 amp breaker will save my circuits for more....experiments.

You can have stick shift with air controle hi/low range. That transmission must have been spec'd for some other reason. Even 2 years ago our brand new T880 was air operated on both range selections, the split and hi/low range.

 

[Mr P]

Let me rephrase: Before converting my electric over air shift to completely air shift, I'll throw all the air stuff away and build linkage and manually shift the range. Twin stick shift.

 

[Mr P]

I'm attempting to figure out the clutch and linkage adjustment. Here's a vid I'm considering.

 

[Omnibot2000]

I'm not watching a 16 min. video. What are you wanting to do?

To set up clutch first thing I do is set up the clutch brake. With the clutch installed, clutch applied you are looking for a 1/2 inch space between the back of the release bearing to the clutch brake.

From there you set up your linkages and pedal play. Depending how you like your clutch go for one inch or more pedal play with clutch applied. Some like a little more, a little less(refrain from this) but so long you have play at the very top of the clutch pedal so your not loading up the release bearing.

When that's set; sit back and test the range of the pedal. Crawl underneath and inspect the operation through the inspection cover. What I do is take a half inch bolt and slide it between the back plate of the release bearing and clutch brake. Then look at the fork on the release bearing. Should not touch until the free play is taken up. Have a 2nd person jump in and push the clutch pedal to the end of the pedal stroke. You should see the release bearing clamp the clutch brake.

 

[Omnibot2000]

Here is adjustment if your running this clutch. Pedal travel and clutch adjustment explained. Your pedal measurements will be different but theory the same.

This guy does go into a lot of detail. My focus is setting up clutch first. Deal with pedal linkages after.

More straight forward, how I set it up pretty much bang on.

 

[Mr P]

I only wanted to put the vid here for reference.

My vid: the guy tells why and shows how to adjust. He sets up pressure plate position, then linkage, then moves the clutch brake toward the throwout. He explains why at about the 11 minute mark. Since his order is backward from your order....I dunno. The beauty of the internet...

 

[Omnibot2000]

Different ways to skin a cat I suppose.

 

[Mr P]

Different ways to skin a cat I suppose.

My engine, flywheel, clutch set, clutch (bell) housing, and transmission had never been bolted together until a few weeks ago. I tried adjusting like you (and lots of vids) said, but I was having to adjust the clutch a LOT....several complete turns of the adjuster bolt didn't get the bearing to the clutch brake.

I got scared I was messing up the clamp loading of the pressure plate. The vid I linked provided me with a solution. I've got shims in the mail. Fingers crossed for success.

 

[Mr P]

Oh, the "electric over air" range shift...I replaced both solenoids with Chinese parts, with shop air and vehicle parked it's trying to shift. I think it'll work when driving....just got to get several more things done to get it down off the blocks and drive it.