Messed with electrical; now bus won’t start

[JudyW]

We thought we were doing it right.

We disconnected both batteries.

We took off the dome lights and most of that wiring. Then we removed the wires to the buzzer in the driver’s control panel. Then hooked up the batteries, and the bus wouldn’t start. We replaced the buzzer wires and the bus still wouldn’t start. Looked for a blown fuse, still wouldn’t start. Opened hatches, no buzzer sound.

Tested current in dome lights and buzzer wires and they have current when the bus is on.

Now we’re thinking we messed up the wiring to the hatches when we removed the dome lights since the wires run together.

Any ideas?

 

[Danjo-SKO]

First thing to do is confirm that the battery cables are attached correctly. The polarity is correct and the cable connections are clean and tight.

Do you have power for anything?

Do you have a way to check voltage like a multimeter?

Do you have any doors open when you’re trying to start?

You need to look at all your fuses to make sure they are all OK.

 

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

i have a 2004 chevy express with collins/midbus body and have successfully deleted everything that was not needed anymore. a few of the yellow vanda lock wires had to be connected together to keep it starting.
what bus body do you have.
check the the door latch button on the door.
do you have a HANDI door?
have you cut any yellow wires.
are your wires labeled.
mine were all labeled for what they serve.

 

[knmtravel]

i have a 2004 chevy express with collins/midbus body and have successfully deleted everything that was not needed anymore. a few of the yellow vanda lock wires had to be connected together to keep it starting.
what bus body do you have.
check the the door latch button on the door.
do you have a HANDI door?
have you cut any yellow wires.
are your wires labeled.
mine were all labeled for what they serve.

We originally connected our vandal lock wires together as well and all was fine until we accidentally disconnected the attic fuse block from the ignition. Removing the starter solenoid/relay allowed us to completely remove the vandal lock wiring. Ours was on the driver’s side firewall inside the engine block. If I were going at this again, we would have removed that first as that is the part that disables the starter.

 

[knmtravel]

We thought we were doing it right.

We disconnected both batteries.

We took off the dome lights and most of that wiring. Then we removed the wires to the buzzer in the driver’s control panel. Then hooked up the batteries, and the bus wouldn’t start. We replaced the buzzer wires and the bus still wouldn’t start. Looked for a blown fuse, still wouldn’t start. Opened hatches, no buzzer sound.

Tested current in dome lights and buzzer wires and they have current when the bus is on.

Now we’re thinking we messed up the wiring to the hatches when we removed the dome lights since the wires run together.

Any ideas?

We have the same bus, just a few years newer. Check out my thread this morning on this topic. The starter solenoid/relay on our model was on the firewall inside the engine compartment on the driver’s side. It had three wires connected to it - two purple and one orange. The functional state is a closed connection on the purple wires. The answer was to remove all three wires from the relay and connect the two purple wires together. This stops the orange wire from creating an open circuit and disabling the starter. Easy peasy. I posted some photos to show what we did.

https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f27/the-great-ok-bus-part-deux-35142.html#post429955