Metal treatment

nikitis

1994 International 3800 - Thomas, T444E 165HP
Joined
Jun 17, 2023
Posts
2,354
Location
South Carolina
So I know this topic has been beaten to death, however I've literally put in the search bar on the site "POR-15" and read every single article. There is one item that no one has talked about.

That item is, what should you paint your metal floor with if there is "Zero" rust on the floor.

POR literally means "Paint Over Rust", and I have no rust. Should we be spending $235 for a gallon for 1-2 gallons of POR if we're not attempting to neutralize rust (since there is none).

I think my floor is made of aluminium, and not steel, which would explain why my 30 year old bus has no rust on the floor.

If it is aluminium what would be the best but cheapest stuff to coat with? (It looks like aluminium to me.)

If it is steel, and no rust, same question.

I don't think POR-15 is the most cost effective stuff to paint metal with if there is no rust in play. Shouldn't it be sufficient to just spray a primer over it and be done?
 
You have a galvanized steel floor and it sounds like in perfect condition. No need to paint it unless you are looking to make it a color. If it's getting covered by flooring leave it!
 
bare metal? id use an etching primer and then a ROLL ON OIL-BASED rustoleum pro (in the gold can)... its a good few days before you can walk on it but should give you a nice protective layer should your bus leak water.....
 
bare metal? id use an etching primer and then a ROLL ON OIL-BASED rustoleum pro (in the gold can)... its a good few days before you can walk on it but should give you a nice protective layer should your bus leak water.....

Mostly, there's some glue that will never come off of it. It's permastuck. But yeah. I'll do that.

You have a galvanized steel floor and it sounds like in perfect condition. No need to paint it unless you are looking to make it a color. If it's getting covered by flooring leave it!

I want to cover it with something. Just because it's lasted 30 years in such good condition, It's a good candidate to last 70 more if I take care of it now.
 
I overthink everything and i used rustoleum professional. It lasted a year of pretty heavy traffic over it with steel and wood sliding across it quite often. Poured the gallon out and mopped it around.


im hitting my axles and springs with chassis saver. Its about the half the cost of POR-15 and basically the same thing. I can HPLV it as well with reducer.
 
bare metal? id use an etching primer and then a ROLL ON OIL-BASED rustoleum pro (in the gold can)... its a good few days before you can walk on it but should give you a nice protective layer should your bus leak water.....

Do you have links the exact kind you are speaking of? I'm looking but I don't see a 1 gallon oil based professional version of it, or the etching. Do they make it outside of a can? I'd probably rather roll it on to avoid particles getting on glass.
 
So I know this topic has been beaten to death, however I've literally put in the search bar on the site "POR-15" and read every single article. There is one item that no one has talked about.

That item is, what should you paint your metal floor with if there is "Zero" rust on the floor.

POR literally means "Paint Over Rust", and I have no rust. Should we be spending $235 for a gallon for 1-2 gallons of POR if we're not attempting to neutralize rust (since there is none).

I think my floor is made of aluminium, and not steel, which would explain why my 30 year old bus has no rust on the floor.

If it is aluminium what would be the best but cheapest stuff to coat with? (It looks like aluminium to me.)

If it is steel, and no rust, same question.

I don't think POR-15 is the most cost effective stuff to paint metal with if there is no rust in play. Shouldn't it be sufficient to just spray a primer over it and be done?


I read a ton of reviews and videos on POR-15 and my take on it is that it will go on looking pretty, but if there is not a little bit of rust for it to stick to, it will literally peel of in large pieces after a while (year or 2). I wouldn't use it
 
I ordered my paint cans, and I did my first test spray with the self etching primer.

Dried in under 10 mins. Very fast drying. Also stuck onto the glue parts really well, and has a very nice rough texture to it, so the black enamal spray should stick to it very well.

I went with spray because i wasn't finding a decent roll on enamel anywhere near me. Sherwin Williams paint store didn't have anything for automotive. So sad to have a paint store where your primary business is selling paint and no self etching paints.....

So Amazon order I went, and got the box you see below. 6 cans of self etching, and 6 enamel cans should cover my 26ft floor, and may have some left over to do my hat channels too for some added protection.

I'll send another picture when I spray on the enamel.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20240510_084716.jpg
    IMG_20240510_084716.jpg
    227.2 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_20240510_084742.jpg
    IMG_20240510_084742.jpg
    169.8 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_20240509_162335.jpg
    IMG_20240509_162335.jpg
    232.7 KB · Views: 19
I ordered my paint cans, and I did my first test spray with the self etching primer.

Dried in under 10 mins. Very fast drying. Also stuck onto the glue parts really well, and has a very nice rough texture to it, so the black enamal spray should stick to it very well.

I went with spray because i wasn't finding a decent roll on enamel anywhere near me. Sherwin Williams paint store didn't have anything for automotive. So sad to have a paint store where your primary business is selling paint and no self etching paints.....

So Amazon order I went, and got the box you see below. 6 cans of self etching, and 6 enamel cans should cover my 26ft floor, and may have some left over to do my hat channels too for some added protection.

I'll send another picture when I spray on the enamel.




how much did you save over the POR-15?
 
how much did you save over the POR-15?

All the paint cost me about $100. 2 quarts of POR-15 was like $150. And that didn't include metal prep stuff which would have been another $50 - $100.

So maybe $150'ish saved. I don't think I'm even going to use all 6 cans. so I may could of done it cheaper, but what's remaining I plan to use on the hat channels as well, so I'll get even more out of it.
 

Try RV LIFE Pro Free for 7 Days

  • New Ad-Free experience on this RV LIFE Community.
  • Plan the best RV Safe travel with RV LIFE Trip Wizard.
  • Navigate with our RV Safe GPS mobile app.
  • and much more...
Try RV LIFE Pro Today
Back
Top