More fun, Either in Accessories or Key On Ghosting Turnsignal indicators

[jfmusic@me.com]

I don't remember seeing this before, but I wasn’t paying that close attention.
With the key in either Accessory, or Run I have a ghosting RT turn signal and a Bright Left turn signal.

It holds capacitance for a moment or two after I turn off the key.

The turn signals are functioning as normal.

Suggestions Please.

 

[Albatross]

I don't remember seeing this before, but I wasn’t paying that close attention.
With the key in either Accessory, or Run I have a ghosting RT turn signal and a Bright Left turn signal.

It holds capacitance for a moment or two after I turn off the key.

The turn signals are functioning as normal.

Suggestions Please.

Are your bulbs good? I would change them and see if that helps. Then I'd try swapping out your relays.

Even if neither solve the problem, it's good to know, and you should always have spares of those on-hand.

 

[jfmusic@me.com]

Thanks, I swapped out the Bulbs For LEDs, and after spotting the dash light issue, I put the originals all back. Didn’t make a difference. Went back to the LEDs.

The Flasher itself is working with 1156's and the LEDs.
It looks like a bad Diode But I went hunting for a diode pack and couldn’t locate one.

 

[nikitis]

The trouble switching to LED's is, you are going from a higher wattage for a traditional bulb which the circuitry is designed to make use of vs an LED which on average use 4x less wattage. So there may be no issues, just that one of the circuits for one side may have more wattage passing through and why it's brighter. Using less wattage isn't usually a problem, as using more wattage than it was designed for would be, but you can expect little anomalies like this with variations when switching to LED's.


I wanted to switch to LED's on my dash but it's so old it's not possible because LED's require one way power direction, while a bulb doesn't care which direction, well my circuitry wasn't designed to carry current in one direction so LED's don't light up in my rig for the dash anyway.

 

[Albatross]

Thanks, I swapped out the Bulbs For LEDs, and after spotting the dash light issue, I put the originals all back. Didn’t make a difference. Went back to the LEDs.

The Flasher itself is working with 1156's and the LEDs.
It looks like a bad Diode But I went hunting for a diode pack and couldn’t locate one.

Okay, then it's the bad-light circuit triggering.

When you switch to LED lights, you need to switch your lighting relays as well to ones that are LED-capable.

Essentially, what's happening is the return-circuit that detects if a light has shorted out is triggering off the lower resistance of the LED lights, so you need to change the relay out to one that is either designed for LED lights, or a hybrid relay that can handle either-or. I know that Bosch makes some good ones.

 

[Albatross]

The trouble switching to LED's is, you are going from a higher wattage for a traditional bulb which the circuitry is designed to make use of vs an LED which on average use 4x less wattage. So there may be no issues, just that one of the circuits for one side may have more wattage passing through and why it's brighter. Using less wattage isn't usually a problem, as using more wattage than it was designed for would be, but you can expect little anomalies like this with variations when switching to LED's.


I wanted to switch to LED's on my dash but it's so old it's not possible because LED's require one way power direction, while a bulb doesn't care which direction, well my circuitry wasn't designed to carry current in one direction so LED's don't light up in my rig for the dash anyway.

You can still do it, you just have to figure out which side is hot for each circuit.

I did that with my '03 Ranger when I had to pull the dash to change out the heat-exchanger. It's pretty easy because you've probably still got a printed-circuit board controlling the dash lights, so put an LED in, and if it doesn't light, turn it around and it should.

 

[jfmusic@me.com]

Thanks, the LEDS. You are correct they like being plugged in, in one direction. But they do work, if plugged in that way. My Dash is now all LED's. So is my 1980 Triumph TR7 but that required a different Flasher unit.

The oddity on my dash is LED or the Original 1156's both have them same dash issue which is no affecting the Gauges just the Center Idiot lights/Flasher Idiot lights. It sure looks like Diode and backflow. But I can't proof it so far.,

 

[Albatross]

Thanks, the LEDS. You are correct they like being plugged in, in one direction. But they do work, if plugged in that way. My Dash is now all LED's. So is my 1980 Triumph TR7 but that required a different Flasher unit.

The oddity on my dash is LED or the Original 1156's both have them same dash issue which is no affecting the Gauges just the Center Idiot lights/Flasher Idiot lights. It sure looks like Diode and backflow. But I can't proof it so far.,

That's kind of how the "detection circuit" works; it's based on the higher resistance of the original equipment incandescent lights. Change your flashers out for either the hybrid ones or the LED-specific ones, and it should be fixed.

 

[cadillackid]

Thanks, I swapped out the Bulbs For LEDs, and after spotting the dash light issue, I put the originals all back. Didn’t make a difference. Went back to the LEDs.

The Flasher itself is working with 1156's and the LEDs.
It looks like a bad Diode But I went hunting for a diode pack and couldn’t locate one.

does the bus have a light monitor? ive seen a bad light monitor cause backwards flow through diodes that exist in the light monitor..


this kind of says Bad ground.. have you checked all of your flashing lights including the side markers?

 

[jfmusic@me.com]

Thanks, But... I put all of the original bulbs back in as a test.
It still had the problem.

 

[nikitis]

You can still do it, you just have to figure out which side is hot for each circuit.

I did that with my '03 Ranger when I had to pull the dash to change out the heat-exchanger. It's pretty easy because you've probably still got a printed-circuit board controlling the dash lights, so put an LED in, and if it doesn't light, turn it around and it should.

No it cant be done on my particular dash, I tried it, the ground line is shared with the power line on circuit board. It isn't directional flowing power which is typical so the diode fails in either direction it is installed. In fact several lights all share the same line trace for both sides of the bulb. There is no negative/ positive trace with this, they are the same. Requires incandescent bulbs only unfortunately. My status lights on my dash on the side takes leds as they are directional power. There is no + - on the middle dash lights. Both side rails are + - and they took leds. The light bulbs in the nondirectional traces light up as long as electrons flow in either direction which is the case for the middle gauge lights.

 

[jfmusic@me.com]

Thanks, I have not hunted grounds as yet. I tested all the hot leads when I went through the initial no Flash Problem... which turned out to be a blown dash fuse. I don't know if it has a light sensor or not. Would that be a Looking to see if it's daylight verses night or some other kind of Light sensor?