more power from your diesel engine

[lapeer20m]

I'm really kind of opposed to "turning up" the power on your engine. Everyone knows that more power = less reliability and durability.

I was looking at the DT 466 engines the other day, and found a sticker on top of the valve cover. It has a little chart showing what the timing and fuel delivery rate should be set at for vairous hp ratings. That got me thinking.....

So i looked for info about my engine and found that the DT series, my brazilian ford, and the cummings mechinical injection 5.9 liter engines all share the same injector pump. (different sizes obviously) It seems most diesel engines come with a lower hp rating for the first part of their life then can be turned up after the engine is broken in. Even though my particular engine doesn't have the info for increasing hp rating, i found the instructions on how to "turn it up". It seems simple enough.

I think it's a bad idea. My engine has over 276,000 miles and i'm sure that it does not need any extra stress.

That being said, I think that when the weather warms up, i'm gonna give it a try. What's the worse thing that can happen? I shoot a rod through the side of the engine block? Then i'll be forced to get that new bigger engine i've been wanting.

It seems like a bad idea....but i just can't resist! I'm a crackhead!

The 6.6 liter ford seems to be way overbuilt. However, i immagine it's come to the end and perhaps surpassed it's rated engine life.

What everyones thought on this?

It's not like i'll be increasing the hp excessively. Perhaps just 10 or 15 hp. I won't really know how much, it's not as if there is a skoolie dyno in my backyard. IF i get real ambitious, i might even put a pyrometer in the exhaust manifold to monitor exhaust temps before/after the modification.

 

[EldoMike]

put the Pyro meter in..you might be surprised how much you can "turn it up"

 

[iowasparrow]

If you are talking about turning up the injector pump, I've heard stories of farmers around here turning up the pumps on thier tractors, they usually don't know what they are doing and end up ruining the engine. However I do know a Case mechanic who turned up the HP on his own personal tractor and I believe it is still running strong.

 

[Skoolie BOBB]

Turning up the power

I've got a question about pyrometers. I'm aware that there is such a thing, but I really don't know exactly how you use one. If a person turned up their fuel pump, how would the pyrometer keep you out of trouble? Also, exactly what goes wrong with an engine if you do turn the power up? Does it just wear things out sooner?

Herb in Utah--TC/2000

 

[Jarlaxle]

A pyrometer is a temperature probe in the exhaust manifold or headpipe...watching it closely when at WOT keeps you from melting pistons.

 

[lapeer20m]

for anyone with a bosh inline injector pump like the ones found on the DT, cummins 5.9 idi, and ford/new holland brazilian motors here are a couple links to making more hp

http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf

http://www.geocities.com/kaufmanns@sbcg ... mance.html

 

[lapeer20m]

Today i finally turned up the hp on my DT360.

WOW!!!

if i were to do it again, it would be about a 15 minute project, however being the first time it took about an hour.

I only drove about 10 miles or so, but i did climb the tallest hill in 3 counties. I topped it at 50 mph. I should have gathered more data with the bus in stock mode so i could compare hard numbers, but oh well.

There is a significant improvement in power and acceleration. It'll be interesting to see what happens to fuel economy, but i don't think it'll be drastically different. I used to have to put the gas pedal almost all the way to the floor to do 60 mph, but now it's only about 3/4 throttle to get the same speed.

should have done this years ago starting with my first bus!

 

[lapeer20m]

Yesterday i turned up the IP...see above post, today i'm planning something far more exciting....

anyone ever play with propane injection?

after installing the pyrometer i am plannning a homebuilt propane injection system. Seems safe and easy. I don't need a racecar, i'm just tired of being the slowest vehicle when climbing the big hills!

I'll try to take lots of photos and put together an online tutorial.

most of my other crazy bus projects seem to end well, hope this one also has a happy ending. The dt360 is an extremely stout engine design and is currently running at very low HP. The DT466 is pretty much the same engine and it comes in a version with more than 100hp than the 360.

parts needed:

propane bottle
Microswitch for WOT (wide open throttle)
guarded switch for dashboard
LED indicators
Hydraulic hose
High pressure oxygen regulator
12 volt solenoid
5 psi switch to allow propane to flow only when boost pressure is present
12 volt wire
1/4 turn valve for quick shutoff
EGT (exhaust gas temperature) guage

Wish me luck!

 

[Jarlaxle]

Get the pyro first...also ,what transmission do you have? Some (read: AT545) are right at their limit with a stock engine.

FYI, the DT466E tops out at, IIRC, 275HP. With that rating, it's still a million-miler.

 

[lapeer20m]

i looked at some DT466/AT545 buses for sale locally last year.

I have the DT360/AT545, a lot less HP than my engines older brother (the dt466). I don't know how much power my engine is currently producing, but since i turned up the fuel delivery rate, and advanced the timing slightly, she's screaming up the hills.

i'm still debating about propane injection

i suppose i should also get a trans temp guage if i decide to go that route. I have been reading lots about propane though. It's nothing like adding nitrous to a gasser. It seems to be quite safe, many times lowering the Exaust gas temps and increasing fuel mileage. The propane and diesel fuel together have a bit of synergy apparently by making the diesel fuel burn more efficiently.

 

[hoser-SKO]

To make more power your burning more fuel, check the mileage whilst your playing here...

How are you adjusting the pump its too bad you cant adjust it from the drivers seat... get on flat land where you dont need the extra power then dial it back to only make the power you need, increase your mpg by burning less fuel.. get into a head wind or tall hills then dial it up again.

 

[lapeer20m]

it's literally as easy as turning a screw.

Use a allen wrench to remove a plug in the top of hte injector pump
use a deep well socket to loosen a jamb nut
back the screw out for more power with a flat head screwdriver
tighten the jamb nut
re-install the plug in the injector pump

i'll be making a trip to london ontario in a couple weeks with the bus, so i'll keep track of fuel economy numbers then. Since i only have to put the pedal @ 3/4 now to do the same speed i used to keep the pedal all the way to the floor the fuel economy numbers might not change too much. (fingers crossed)

 

[lapeer20m]

i bought most of the items to complete the propane injection system. I spent lots of time reading about propane, it sounds safe enough. When used in moderation it can produce improved fuel economy numbers. (even after including the propane that's being burned)

I've spent about $75 so far.

I'll take photos and let everyone know how everything works out

 

[mike-SKO]

Turning it up

Well just how much did you turn the screw on the pump ? What was the response on the exhaust meter

 

[the_experience03]

Pyrometer...just like it sounds. Pyro=heat/fire, meter=well...meter.

A pyrometer is a gauge to measure exhaust gas temperatures. Under certain loads, especially over fueling, your exhaust gases before the turbo reach WELL over 1000 degrees. A turbo spinning at 100,000 rpms+that much heat=bad news so you put the pyrometer in place to monitor things. The beauty of high exhaust gas temps is that they go away pretty easily. You just let up with your right foot. The high exhaust gas temperatures are why you should idle your buses for 2-3 minutes before shutting it down after a light load and longer if you've just really worked it since the oil cools and lubes the turbo and it doesn't get any oil if the engine isn't running/

 

[lapeer20m]

i think the most important time to let your engine idle for a couple minutes for a cool down is when you pull into a rest area along the highway. (i'm not opposed to just leaving my bus running for the 10 or 15 minutes we are there) This is one of the few examples of when your engine goes from running under load (full load in many cases as some of us drive with the pedal to the metal most of the time) to getting parked almost immediately.

when you pull off an exit to drive to a gas station ,or a restaurant, the engine generally gets some idling time....ie stop signs/lights, driving around the parking lot looking for a place to park ect. Not having a guage it's hard to say, but i would immagine that the engine has cooled down significantly by the time you finally pull next to the fuel pump. It is however still a good idea to let her idle for a couple mins before shutting down. If you look at all the big trucks at the truck stop, you'll notice that every one of them leaves their truck running while fueling. Diesel fuel is far safer than gasoline. A spark will not ignite diesel fuel unless the fuel is above about 120 degrees, even then the chances are pretty slim.

well, that was almost completly off topic of more power......but was tied in with the pyrometer question.....

 

[Steve-SKO]

I find that my gas engine is more likely to backfire when turning it off if I do not idle it for a minute after running on the interstate like that. I think its a good thing to do with any engine.

 

[lapeer20m]

I stole the text here from another website, but i think he also stole it from yet another site....

http://www.geocities.com/kaufmanns@sbcglobal.net/lowbukdieselperformance.html

I added photos, although i did not take any when i actually had the jamb nut out of the IP.

"To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.

To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke. The governor spring adjustments are the same as the newer 466's described above."

i labeled some more IP photo's if you want to see them

http://www.skoolie.net/gallery2/v/Skoolies/Jacuzzi-Bus/New-Jacuzzi-Bus/porch/IP/

 

[frank-id]

Hey Jason

Thank you thank you. You have done this community a good service.
I do not own a 360 or 466 Intl. Your time, energy, and skills are a great asset to this group. I know ya spent lots of time to make this information available. I have been unable to learn the secrets of the Cummins PT pump.
The pump folks guard the information very carefully. Got any ideas for an old guy? Again thaks. If I can help you in some way, send a note. Frank

 

[lapeer20m]

you have that crazy pancake cummins? is it the 220?

I've seen lots of data on the cummins 5.9 pump. it's nearly identical to the newer dt360/466 pumps, but have yet to see anything on the horizontal cummings.