Need help: Rear Door Hold-open mechanism

[TheHubbardBus]

As received, our rear door had a hold-open device mounted at both the top of the door frame, and the top of the rear door. This would only allow it to open 90-degrees, and keep it locked out at 90-degrees until you closed it (by pulling it slightly past 90-degrees, which 'resets' it and allows the door to close).

We're now at the point of re-installing it (actually a new one, but same exact same part). But the former mounting holes have been covered up with wood/trim, and even if they weren't, I need to change the vertical orientation slightly anyway. So I need to mount this now in a spot it will function as intended, but sufficiently offset from the old (hidden) holes so that I actually screw through into solid metal.

My question: Do I have some flexibility in moving this mechanism left or right of where pictured? Or is there some reason it needs to be exactly where it's at? I don't think it does... but I'm not thinking too clearly this morning, and if I drill holes, they have to be right the first time around.

My tentative plan is to mount the part that secures to the interior of the door frame first - either left or right of where I approximate the old holes being - then open the door 90-degrees, extend the mechanism to full extension, and attach it to the door there. Does that sound right?

Attached are the old photos showing how it was mounted before...

 

[AlphaHare]

My bus had one of these too, pretty cool.

The important mounting consideration is the closed distance. The mounting points can't be any closer together than the fully closed position.

The other consideration is the basic position. Based on your third picture, as the device is mounted toward the right side of the door frame, the door will open less than 90 degrees. As the device is mounted toward the left of the door frame, the door will eventually open more than 90 degrees and will interfere with the device.

I'd mock it up closed, favoring the right side of original, and then see where the door ends up in the open position. Adjust the closed mock up until you get the open door position you want.

 

[TheHubbardBus]

Thanks, Alpha! That helps a lot. Some days my brain works well, other times... not so much

I can't wait to get this back on. Having that heavy door swing shut on my people-parts every time I had to load/unload something from the rear was getting tiresome.

 

[Timeline]

This Bluebird has a similar door device, looking it over just now and it should be fine to move it a little. One side of the bracket is slotted giving about 1/2" of adjustment.

Man on a windy day these can be dangerous, the wind can unlock the device and SLAM that door! I'm thinking about adding a safety pin to the track...

 

[Mr P]

A "modern" lift support strut (like on hatches and hoods) could be adapted, if holding open is the only desire.

 

[TheHubbardBus]

@Timeline... You just saved me from the incident I never would have seen coming. Many thanks.

The cool thing about the replacement we sourced is that, unlike the original, it has what eye-balling appears to be a series of 1/4-5/16" d. holes on both halves, and two holes align at full-lock-out so you could just put a pin/s-hook/pinky-finger in there to secure it. Is yours the same, or do you have to fashion a similar provision?

 

[fo4imtippin]

My factory one has holes where I would stick a 1/4 bolt to hold it open. I bought a similar one for my front door and I'm on my second one. I added a Paracord string as nothing I can find is as strong as the bluebird factory one. The metals tabs on the one I purchased are softer and bend if someone opens the door in the wind.

 

[nikitis]

I have the same device. I just unhooked mine to remove the door for my roof raise. I will get rid of mine, and instead install a chain hook on the bumper, cut the chain to length, and add another hook onto the door at the bottom left that swings open. I'll be able to swing the door fully open, and just hook them together when I want the door to stay open at any angle, and keep the chain under the bed which is accessible through the door into the newly created underbed garage door. But that method requires that you get out of the bus. If I'm lazy or just waking up and want a view and fresh air while in bed....

But I may not use a chain or a hook. I recently bought a couple of powerful magnets for $10 at Harbor Freight, and used them to hold tarps from the roof. I'm thinking now to add a magnet to the inside of my skin where the door would touch if I opened the door 180 degrees, and have the magnet just hold the door from inside invisibly. I will need to do some testing to see if this is feasible.

I rarely found myself wanting to have something lock the door open. But may more often once I'm road tripping. And if I want to get really crazy, I may change out the magnet for an electro magnet I can switch on and off with a flip of a switch by the bed to hold it open only when I want it to stay and it won't on it's own.

 

[TheHubbardBus]

@nikitis, I have found utility in this door locking thingamadoodle numerous times, and we're not even officially 'on the road' yet. IMO It's ingenious in its simplicity. It's been a long time since I've had it on and honestly - I've really missed it!

@fo4imtippin, pretty sure this is the OEM part too, though it did differ from the one the bus came with, so I'm not sure which of the two is the real slim shady. It appears well built. Is that what you do (use a 1/4" bolt)?

@Mr P , I'd probably consider exactly that if I didn't already have a new part. But I am very happy with the way this works.

Hey - while I have y'all on the line, what do you do for lube (minds outa da gutta, por favor)? I'm kinda on a mission from God to 'stop the rattle', and only 'cuz I love it so am I allowing this contraption into our bus. I was thinking a wax-based motorcycle chain lube would do the job while producing enough build-up to cushion the rattles and reduce the clearance between the slides. Good or bad? What do you use?

 

[nikitis]

You might could try like an air tool oil. It's light, less detergents, and allows for movement.

 

[Kentucky Dreaming]

Last time I saw one of those gizmos was on a 1951 Ford coupe trunk lid that my dad had. Remarkably simple, but very effective.

I learned a lot working on that car when I was a teenager, back in the old days.

 

[AlphaHare]

Well, you can't pack it with grease. For rattle, I'd explore some plastic shim stock to see if I could slip something in between the slides to take out the play.

 

[Timeline]

@Timeline

The cool thing about the replacement we sourced is that, unlike the original, it has what eye-balling appears to be a series of 1/4-5/16" d. holes on both halves, and two holes align at full-lock-out so you could just put a pin/s-hook/pinky-finger in there to secure it. Is yours the same, or do you have to fashion a similar provision?

Yes there are several holes where a pinky size bolt can be placed to lock the door open, one is right at the maximum. Never noticed that before, thanks!