Need Help with Solar Setup

[beneathHiswing]

hello everyone! I currently havre several components for my solar setup and need advice on any additional equipment needed and configuring it all. Any help is GREATLY appreciated! My daily power need is 10kw.
This is the equipment I currently have with links attached:

SUNGOLDPOWER 3000W 24V Hybrid All in One Solar Inverter​

5 - RICH SOLAR 200 Watt 24 Volt 9BB Cell Monocrystalline High Efficiency Solar Panels​

2- Redodo 12V 200Ah PLUS Lithium LiFePO4 Battery w/ Max 2560W Power Output​

 

[Beeb2]

I'm not experienced with 24v, but I've been told it's essentially the same as 12v. Faroutride.com has a very good electrical guide that breaks down everything you need for a 12v setup. It'll help get you started in at least knowing what items you'll need. But you'll want to scale up to 24v and make sure your items are rated for 24v

 

[fishe160]

I second Faroutride, good information to learn from and the website has the ability to generate an Amazon cart with the amount of terminals and wires you'll need.
Victron has a nice guide called wiring unlimited that was good info too.

Also, your inverter says it can do 3 kW of power, but you need 10 kW?
Maybe you meant 10 kWh of energy storage?

Your battery only holds 12V x 200A x 2 = 4.8 kWh.

You can probably only produce (roughly) 200W x 75% x 5pannels x 5hours = 3.75kWh on a good day.

Good luck

 

[nikitis]

I'm not experienced with 24v, but I've been told it's essentially the same as 12v. Faroutride.com has a very good electrical guide that breaks down everything you need for a 12v setup. It'll help get you started in at least knowing what items you'll need. But you'll want to scale up to 24v and make sure your items are rated for 24v

24v is not 12v. It's double the charging capacity and cuts down on charging nearly double. You are correct that you must have a power inverter that is rated for 24v, 110V. Inverters are very specific on the input output, and you cannot swap them between systems and expect them to work or worse fry them.

With panels you likely will have to double them up. In a 12v setup. a Panel is usually already 13.4v which is for a 12v system to charge. Slightly higher than 12v to charge a 12v battery. So to obtain a 26.8v charge for a 24v battery setup you will want to put two panls in Series. Series doubles voltage. So two 13.4v panels will double to a 26.8v which is required for a 24v battery /inverter setup. Since you aren't likely buying 24v batteries, you'll need to double up 2 batteries in series as well to get a 24v battery setup.

Since you are buying a 200ah 12v Redodo battery, you'll need two of them at minimum in series for your 24v setup. Which will provide you with 400ah, but the amps will not increase, just the longevity, but voltage doubles to 24v. If you guy 4 of those batteries, you can have 800ah, 2 of them in series, and another 2 in series, and the two sets of series gets wired together in parallel to keep it at 24v but having a nice sized bank.

Solar panels will be the same, you start with 2 panels in series. Then another 2 panels in series to make 4 panels in 24v, then take each set of 2 and combine them in parallel. to have 4 panels in 24v setup.

When you combine in parallel you do double the amperage, when you combine in series, the amperage stays the same between them but voltage doubles. If you use 4 panels and 4 batteries, you'll double the amperage 1 time on each, and voltage 1 time on each. This is why charging is faster on a 24v system.

Now the only other thing to consider is that many items you buy in the RV world will require 12v, lighting for example. You'll additionally need a 24v to 12v DC Transformer between your battery setup, and a fuse block you'll add to tie in all of your 12v items into that fuse block. The transformer allows for any 12v items to work without frying your 12v devices on your 24v setup. So anything 12v will be wired into that fuse block, and past the fuse block is the 24v-12v transformer.

 

[Jono14]

Your Sungoldpower hybrid unit actually requires between 120-400 DCV for input voltage so is more typically used for home solar systems. You can make 5 panels work with it, but you will need to put all 5 in a series string for an input voltage of 182V - 218V.
This is serious voltage (anything over 60 volts needs lots of attention to safety) and so you need to be sure that breakers and any wire connector between the panels and the solar inverter are rated appropriately.
Protective conduit is a good idea and you will need to be extra careful with personal safety as touching 200V can be a nasty experience. Wire up the connections down to the controller first and connect the panels as a last step to protect yourself.

As others have noted, neither the 2 batteries nor the 5 panels can store or produce 10kwh of daily energy so the number of panels and batteries would need to be doubled at a minimum to approach those energy needs. But on top of that, if you plan to boon dock and want solar to provide 10 kWh across multiple days, you would need an even larger system so that on good days you can store extra sun energy to carry you through a cloudy day or three.

It may be useful to go through your energy budget and ask yourself, what of these needs could I skip for a few days if it was rainy?

There are many more cheap 12V batteries available than 24V - but do consider using 24V batteries in parallel if a 24V system is planned. The hassle with 2 batteries in series is that the BMSs in each battery do not talk to each other and so the 2 batteries can get out of balance over time.

Having a shunt in the battery system is very helpful for tracking their state of charge. The Victron line of Smart Shunts has the ability to track the midpoint of 2 batteries in series so it can help monitor the balance issue if you are committed to using series batteries.

 

[flattracker]

changing to 24 vdc vs. 12 vdc does not necessarily cut charging time in half. If you have 1000 watts worth of solar panels you will still get less than 1000 watts of charging. When you do the calculations doubling the voltage at 1000 watts means one half the current flow available. I agree that running higher voltage with DC current flow can be dangerous. If you end up in the circuit and getting shocked with 180 vdc letting go may be impossible. I went with five 200 watt panels on the "new Crown" connected in parallel for a 12 volt system. I have measured the solar panel bus up as high 28 volts in bright sunlight. With the addition of a second charge controller and switching one of the panels to the second controller gave the the ability to connect the starter batteries to a 200 watt capacity subsystem. This keep both the starter batteries (2 ea 8D) well charged all year and the coach batteries also well charged. Turning a switch reconnects the fifth solar panel with the other four. This is the way I will use the system when traveling. Running air is possible off the solar/alternator is quite workable as I added a second alternator good for 250 amps.
One other thought, if all panels are in parallel partial shade still affects power output from the solar array is effected a lot less than in series.

 

[BamaBus]

hello everyone! I currently havre several components for my solar setup and need advice on any additional equipment needed and configuring it all. Any help is GREATLY appreciated! My daily power need is 10kw.
This is the equipment I currently have with links attached:

SUNGOLDPOWER 3000W 24V Hybrid All in One Solar Inverter​

5 - RICH SOLAR 200 Watt 24 Volt 9BB Cell Monocrystalline High Efficiency Solar Panels​

2- Redodo 12V 200Ah PLUS Lithium LiFePO4 Battery w/ Max 2560W Power Output​

Where is this going, a treehouse?